Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alay, Southern spurs of the Alay Ridge, Kemisdykty gorge.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — Koltsov Peak, Main summit, 4824 m, East face.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: the route is combined, height difference — 900 m, including wall part — 700 m, length of 5th difficulty sections — 395 m, length of 6th difficulty sections — 150 m, route length — 1580 m, average steepness — 73°.
6. Pitons used (for belay/for aid climbing): rock — 79/3, drilled — 1, ice — 3, chocks — 46/2.
7. Number of climbing hours — 18.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one bivouac on a ridge in a tent.
9. Full name of the leader, team members, and their qualification:

REPORT

on the second ascent of Peak Koltsova, Main summit, 4824 m, East face Onysk OС – fast ascent category AA (14–15) 07.81. p. Koltsova Main 4824, 15.07.81.

BRIEF EXPLANATION

To the table of main characteristics

14.07.81. After receiving a full consultation on the passage of the wall section from the Nikolaichuk — Ufimtsev group on 13.07.81 via radio, we set out on the route at 06:00. We approached the start of the route on the right side of the large couloir of the East face. The route begins to the left of a small cave, from a rock straight up the overhanging wall about 30 m. Then the wall turns into an internal corner with eaves — 60 m. Attention! The rocks are destroyed!

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Alaysky ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. 5027 (p. Commune) via the south-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: combined elevation gain, 1000 m; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 30 m; average steepness — 45°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial holds on:
   • rock — 7;
   • ice — 3;
   • bolted — none.

ASCENT PASSPORT.

1. Ascent class — technical, 3B.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Alaysky ridge, Kок-su tract area, cirque of Aydarbek glacier.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 5027 (p. Commune), via the North ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — combined, 1300 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 340 m. Average steepness 55°.
6. Pitons driven: for belay, for artificial support points:
   • rock — 20;
   • ice — 11;

3. Summit, its height, ascent route

Peak 4784 m North-Eastern edge of p. Communa North.

4. Proposed difficulty category

5A cat. (first ascent)

5. Route characteristic, height difference

Combined 1500 m Length of sections with 5–6 cat. difficulty: 465 m Average steepness: 50°

6. Pitons driven: for belay, for creating artificial handholds:

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay: Alay Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. 4200 "Little Prince" via the edge of the West Wall
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A – 550 m – total
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 450 m (wall section); average steepness – 65°; section lengths: total: 1070 m, including 2nd category of difficulty – 450 m, 3rd category of difficulty – 80 m, 4th category of difficulty – 256 m, 5th category of difficulty – 254 m, 6th category of difficulty – 30 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: chocks — 28 rock — 46 ice — 0

Ascent Passport

(4200 Peak via Western Wall edge, category 5A difficulty (tentative))

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Alay mountain range.
3. Peak 4200, Western wall edge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A (third ascent).
5. Route description Elevation gain: 600 m; length of sections 5–6 — 250 m; average steepness — 70°.
6. Pitons used: for belaying — 75 for creating artificial holds — 2.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent category: rock climbing 2. Region: Pamir-Alay 3. Peak: p. 4240 "Little Prince" via the left part of the Eastern wall 4. Approximate difficulty: 5B category 5. Route description: rock climbing, height difference 620 m (wall section 590 m), average steepness of the wall 71°, length of sections with 5th-6th category difficulty — 700 m 6. Number of pitons used:

Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Pamir-Alay. Koksu gorge.
3. Malenkiy Prints peak (4240 m) via the left part of the Eastern wall (route by Yu. Zadvoryev)
4. Difficulty category — 5B (3rd ascent of the route)
5. Height difference 850 m, length 1100 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 650 m Average steepness of main sections 68° (3650–4200)
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: southern spurs of the Alay mountain range, Kok-su river valley.
3. Rock massif (C-3) p. Spasatelya with subsequent ascent to v. Mramornaya (West)
4. Difficulty category ≈5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — section lengths:
   • 3 — 270 m
   • 4 — 400 m