REPORT
Salt Route
On the ascent of Peak 4770 m via the East Ridge, category 3A complexity (ориентировочно). First ascent.
Leader: Simakov N.V.
Brief description of the approach to the route
The base camp is located in the Koksu gorge, at the confluence of the Koksu and Koshkasu rivers, on the Koshdeba clearing.
From the base camp:
- go up the Koshkasu river along the left bank (1 hour);
- then go along the dry stream bed (the western ridge of Peak 4770 m remains on the left side), which continues along the moraine (1.5 hours).
The route begins at the base of the scree couloir descending from the East Ridge of Peak 4770 m.
(4) — base camp
Appendix 2
Characteristics of the section
| Date | Designation | Average steepness in degrees | Length in meters | Relief characteristics | Difficulty | Condition, weather, circumstances | Movement | Rope | Belay |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| August 16, 1977 | R0–R1 | 40° | 828 m | Rocky, scree couloir | 2 | broken, rockfall, good | Simultaneous movement | – | – |
| August 16, 1977 | R1–R2 | 30° | 223 m | Rocky ridge with scree ledges | 2 | broken, rockfall, good | Alternating movement, belay through outcrops | – | – |
| August 16, 1977 | R2–R3 | 80° | 17 m | Rocky, crack in a large inner corner | 4 | monolithic, good | 1 | – | – |
| August 16, 1977 | R3–R4 | 65° | 20 m | Rocky | 4 | monolithic, good | 2 | – | – |
Brief explanation for the table (Appendix 2)
Section R0–R1. Represented by a scree couloir. The couloir contains wall sections 3–5 m with climbing grade 3. The lower parts of the couloir walls are mostly monolithic, so passing through the couloir along the walls is considered safe. The couloir leads to the East Ridge.
Section R1–R2. Scree ledges, section length 220 m. Climbing grade 2 with alternating belay through outcrops. Proceed with caution due to loose rocks. Stay closer to the ridge.
Section R2–R3. Monolithic rock with a steepness of 80° and a wide vertical crack in a large inner corner. Section length 15–17 m, climbing grade 4. One piton was hammered in for intermediate belay during the ascent. Leads to the pre-summit section of the wall.
Section R3–R4. Monolithic wall with a steepness of 60–70° and a length of 20–25 m, climbing grade 4 to the summit. Two pitons were hammered in for intermediate belay during the ascent.
The descent from the summit is made via the ascent route. On sections R4–R3 and R3–R2, a sports descent was organized. The last participant descends by climbing. The descent takes 1–1.2 hours.