Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: technical
- Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Shait, 4916 m, via NW wall (by Mogilevcev's path), qualifying route
- Proposed difficulty category: 5B category difficulty
- Route characteristics: Height difference 850 m.
Average steepness 67°. Length of sections:
- 1st category difficulty — 40 m
- 3rd category difficulty — 300 m
- 4th category difficulty — 375 m
- 5th category difficulty — 270 m
- 6th category difficulty — 135 m
Pitons driven:
- For belay — 65
- For creating rock anchors — 2
- Ice anchors — 2
- Chocks — 4
- Number of climbing hours: 18 hours
- Number of nights and their characteristics: no nights
- Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification: Kolotiy Valeriy Ivanovich CMS (Candidate for Master of Sports) — leader. Egunov Vladimir Aleksandrovich — participant. Bogachev Alexander Viktorovich — participant.
- Team coach: Yakovlev Vitaliy Dmitrievich, senior instructor, Master of Sports of the USSR
- Date of departure and return:
July 9, 1980 3:00 — departure.
July 9, 1980 21:00 — return.
TABLE OF MAIN ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS
| Date | Section | Avg.steep. (°) | Length (m) | Character | Diff. | Condition | Weather | Rock | Ice | Chocks |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 09.07.1980 | R0–R1 | 45 | 60 | firn | Clear | 2 | - | - | ||
| 03:10 | R1–R2 | 80 | 40 | wall | V | icy | " | 4 | - | 4 |
| R2–R3 | 85 | 40 | inner corner | V | monolith | " | 6/1 | - | 5/II | |
| R3–R4 | 70 | 50 | slab | V | monolith | " | 1 | - | 4 | |
| R4–R5 | 60 | 40 | rib | IV | monolith | " | 2 | - | 3 | |
| R5–R6 | 55 | 40 | slab | IV | monolith | " | 4 | - | - | |
| R6–R7 | 60 | 50 | wall | V | monolith | " | 3 | - | 5 | |
| R7–R8 | 60 | 40 | rib | IV | monolith | " | 4 | - | 4 | |
| R8–R9 | 65 | 50 | rib | IV | monolith | " | 4 | - | 5 | |
| R9–R10 | 80 | 20 | slab | VI | monolith | " | 3 | - | 2 | |
| R10–R11 | 80 | 35 | "lamb’s foreheads" | VI | monolith | " | 3 | - | - | |
| R11–R12 | 70 | 30 | wall | V | monolith | " | 4 | - | - | |
| R12–R13 | 60 | 35 | "lamb’s foreheads" | IV | monolith | " | 4 | - | - | |
| R13–R14 | 85–95 | 20 | wall | VI | monolith | " | 5/1 | - | 4 | |
| R14–R15 | 50–70 | 40 | rib | V | destroyed | " | 3 | - | - | |
| R15–R16 | 60 | 40 | wall | IV | monolith | " | - | - | 3 | |
| R16–R17 | 60–90 | 30 | chimney | V | monolith | " | 2 | - | 2 | |
| R17–R18 | 50 | 50 | wall | IV | destroyed | " | 2 | - | 1 | |
| R18–R19 | 50–70 | 90 | wall | V | destroyed | " | 1 | - | 6 | |
| R19–R20 | 20 | 40 | ledge | I | monolith | " | - | - | - | |
| R20–R21 | 80–95 | 50 | overhang | V–VI | monolith | " | 4 | - | 5/II | |
| 09.07.1980 | R21–R22 | 50 | 40 | wall | V | destroyed | " | 3 | - | - |
| 17:00 | R22–R23 | 60 | 120 | ridge | IV | destroyed | " | 7 | - | 1 |
Brief explanation for the table
| Section | Explanation |
|---|---|
| R0–R1 | Firn with ice, 1 m bergschrund |
| R1–R2 | Icy rocks, partially destroyed, good cracks. |
| R2–R3 | Exit to the rib slabs, chocks used effectively. |
| R3–R4 | Slabs with small ledges. |
| R4–R5 | Rib, monolithic slabs with wide cracks. |
| R5–R13 | Rib, mostly monolith. In some places, very difficult climbing on 4–6 m long sections. Clearly visible from section R4–R5. |
| R13–R14 | Gullies on the wall like "washboard", overhang at the top, difficult section. |
| R16–R17 | Wall with chimney, rocks. |
| R20–R21 | Excellent use of stopper chocks, wide cracks. Monolith. |
| R21–R22 | Simple rocks, rocks! Careful climbing. |
| R22–R23 | Exit to the pre-summit ridge, loose slabs, careful climbing. |