Description of the route condition to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) via the eastern ridge, category 2B complexity. The nature of the route as of September 2015:
- snow-ice
- rock sections do not present technical difficulties.
Approaches
Get to the village of Verkhniy Koni, register at the border outpost (the summit is located in the border area, to make ascents you need to obtain a permit to enter the border zone in the established form, it's better to do this in advance), then go up to the village of Tmenikau, 2 km further up the gorge — there's a border post, this is the farthest point you can reach by car.
From the border post:
- A gentle, wide trail (formerly a geological road) goes up the Genaldon gorge
- The trail leads to the warm mineral springs in front of the tongue of the Maili glacier
- This is where the base camp for ascents to Mt. Kazbek from the north is located
- There are places for tents and water
The distance from the border post to the springs is about 9 km, about 4 hours walking.
Further, the trail goes across a suspension bridge over the Genaldon river to the lateral moraine of the Maili glacier, to the glacier tongue, where the trail ends. Then you need to ascend to the tongue of the Maili glacier (morphology changes frequently — from a steep ice wall to a gentle passage consisting of moraine deposits) near its western edge, cross to the lateral moraine and move along it along the Genaldon river to the place where the left (orographic) tributary flows into it, and cross the river at this point.
Northeast of the mouth of the lateral gorge, on a wide platform — a terrace, there are:
- a complex of scientific equipment;
- a hut for several people.
About 3 hours walking from the mineral springs.
Then move up the left (orographic) side of the lateral gorge along a faint trail to the upper cirque. In the upper cirque, there's a convenient place for a camp.
Landmarks:
- To the north lies the peak Geodezist
- To the west, the cirque is bounded by the ridge between peak Geodezist and Mt. Shau-khokh
- On the southern part of this ridge lies the Tsata pass
Move up the upper cirque in a southwest direction towards the tongue of the Tsata glacier. About 3 hours from the hut. Enter the glacier and move up along its northern edge towards the Tsata pass — about 1.5 hours.
A assault camp is set up in the area of the Tsata pass. 200 m below the Tsata pass, on the lower part of the ridge to peak Geodezist, there's a shelf suitable for setting up a camp.
There's also a ready-made platform for 1 tent on the ridge itself, 100 m north of the pass.
Tsata pass
Route
The route starts from the area of the Tsata pass, traversing a steep (up to 45°) snow-ice slope above the zone of obvious crevasses to the eastern ridge of Mt. Shau-khokh. Section R1–R2 on the diagram.
There are several closed bergschrunds on the slope, up to 1.5 m wide. Piton protection is possible. Time from the start of the route — about 1.5 hours.
Then move along the gentle ridge to a sharp ascent. About 1 hour from the exit to the ridge. Section R2–R3 on the diagram.
The ascent is traversed from the left, piton protection is possible. Time — about 1 hour. Section R3–R4 on the diagram.
Above the ascent, there's a platform, then along a gentle ridge, exit to a zone of transverse bergschrunds. Time from the ascent — about 40 minutes.
This section is bypassed by traversing a steep (up to 50°) slope from the left below, 5-6 ropes. Piton protection is mandatory. Time depends on the group's size and preparedness.
Then move along the ridge, passing sections of rock that do not present technical difficulties, to the second steep ascent. The length of the ascent is 2-3 ropes. Piton protection is possible.
Then there's an easy section of the ridge to a steep snow "step" several meters high, which is climbed freely.
Above the step, the pre-summit ascent begins. At the summit, there's a spacious platform, with a cairn at the exit point. About 1 hour from the end of the crevasse zone.
Descent is via the ascent route.
Approaches, diagram
Route, diagram
