USSR Alpine Climbing Championship

Rock Climbing Category

Pamir-Alay

Gissar Ridge

D-3 peak Zamin Karor

1. Climbing category - rock climbing
2. Climbing area - Pamir-Alay, Hissar mountain range
3. Climbing route - first ascent via the left part of the western wall's couloir, SW peak of Zamin-Karor
4. Climbing characteristics elevation gain - 1200 m average steepness - 86° length of challenging sections - 1001 m
5. Pitons used: rock pitons - 153 chocks - 79

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 103 Zamin-Karor, 3707 m, via the left part of the western wall's kar, V. Popov route 4. Difficulty category — 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 972 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 992 m, average steepness — 84°. 6. Pitons hammered: for belay/ETO rock — 143/35 ice — 0/0 bolt — 2/1

Passport

I. Category of Rock Climbing Ascensions 2. Gissar Ridge, Zamin Karor South-Western 3. Zamin Karor South-Western peak via the Western wall 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B, first ascent 5. Height difference 860 m, route length 890 m Length of sections:

• Category 5 difficulty: 520 m, average steepness 79.23°
• Category 6 difficulty: 180 m, average steepness 86.7°

6. Pitons hammered in:

130

II. Khosilot.

Description of the ascent from the West via route 1Б (Category III)

I. Approaches.

The approaches to the start of the route are similar to those for the Yaghnobskaya Stena (main peak) route. It's also possible to exit directly under the route.

II. Ascent (from the camp in the upper Kanyon).

Move in the direction of the western wall of the peak, exiting onto the ridge beneath it. Along the wall, descend 300 meters. Here, a wide fracture of the peak's massif ends in a narrow couloir. A waterfall cascades down from the peak's plateau. The ascent path is to the left (in the direction of travel) of the waterfall, via easy rock. Move simultaneously, but cautiously. After 1–1.5 hours, exit onto the plateau, in the eastern part of which, between two peaks, there is a connecting ridge, accessible via easy rock. From the connecting ridge, also on easy rock, move simultaneously. Descend from the peak via the ascent route. The ascent from camp to camp takes 7–8 hours. The first ascent was made in July 1971 by a group consisting of:

• Tkachev V.K., Candidate Master of Sports
• Kislov Yu., 3rd sports category

Description

Ascent from the north to p. Khosilot 2B cat. sl. and descent along route 1B cat. sl. I. Climbing Area. p. Khosilot (4650 m) is located in the Yaghnob Wall area.

• To the north, from the summit to the Ledovyy col between the Eastern peak of the Yaghnob Wall and Khosilot, lies a glacier.
• To the northeast, a steep ice-rock ridge descends into the Yaghnob river valley.
• To the west, a rocky ridge stretches, ending in 200-meter sheer cliffs.
• The southern slopes of the peak are more eroded and drop down with sheer walls and wide ledges to a nameless col.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical ascent
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge
3. Peak — proposed name — CHELYABINSK peak 4363.6 m
4. Ascent route — via the western edge Proposed category — 4B
5. Height difference — 700 m Length of complex sections — 170 m. Average steepness — 40°
6. Pitons driven: safety — 50, for creating ITO — 0, rock — -50, ice — 0, bolt — 0

Report

on the first ascent to Peak "Chelyabinsk" via the eastern side, category 4A difficulty (approximate). Group leader: Vyacheslav Savovich Marchenko — 1st sports category Participants: Gennadiy Georgievich Chavka — 1st sports category Alexander Ivanovich Savchenko — 1st sports category Vasily Konstantinovich Alexandrov — 1st sports category Group coach: Mikhail Mikhailovich Zakhzhiy The ascent was made on July 18, 1977.

Leningrad

3. The summit, its height and the route: Adamtash 4700 m from Big Cirque.
4. Assumed category of difficulty: 2A
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference 400 m, average steepness 40–45° length of sections R1–R200 m, R2–R450 m, R3–R50 m
6. Pitons hammered: for belay — 2 rock pitons
7. Number of walking hours: 6 hours — ascent, 3 hours — descent
8. Number of overnight stays and their quality: a site on the base in the cirque (4300 m)
9. Full name of the leader and participants, sports qualification: Daruga V. K. — 1st sports category, senior instructor, Miglinayte G. A. — participant
10. Team coach: Daruga V. K.

V. ADAMTASH, 4A, via the Eastern Ridge (V. Korotkov's route, 68)

From the Big Alaudin Lakes, follow the trail towards the Mutny Lakes until the turn to the Adamtash Pass. Go around the spur (on the right or left) and approach a characteristic white wall in the lower part of the spur above a large green shoulder. The landmark is a waterfall to the right. Here is the 1st control point. Put on climbing shoes and tie in here. R0–R1: 40 m at 70°, moderately difficult rock with good holds. Then enter a chimney (7–8 m) and continue to a black wall; bypass it and reach a ledge. Alternate belay. R1–R2: 100 m at 45°, moderately difficult rock. Alternate belay. R2–R3: 120 m at 30–40° scree, exit below a wall. Simultaneous movement. R3–R4: An internal corner (40 m at 70°) with loose rocks. Then move 10 m straight up and then 5 m right along a ledge, followed by 10 m left and up a slab. The landmark to the left is a grey wall. Continue 40 m right and up at 80°, then 80 m up ledges at 60°, and 40 m of difficult climbing at 85–90° with piton protection. R4–R5: Traverse left (30 m) and 50 m along the left side of the spur. The rocks are sharp with few cracks. Exit onto a saddle via a path of II cat. diff. R5–R6: Traverse left towards the visible col before the wall of the South-Eastern Ridge. Alternate belay. Then 40 m along a smoothed slab. Exit onto the ridge via scree (snow in June). 40 m. Cross over to the South-West slope. R6–R7: 200 m at 30–40° along scree ledges towards the rusty-red rocks on the left side of the wall. Simultaneous movement. R7–R8: Easy climbing on moderately difficult rocks (250 m at 40°). Alternate belay.