Climbing category - rock climbing
Climbing area - Pamir-Alay, Hissar mountain range
Climbing route - first ascent via the left part of the western wall's couloir, SW peak of Zamin-Karor
Climbing characteristics elevation gain - 1200 m average steepness - 86° length of challenging sections - 1001 m
Pitons used: rock pitons - 153 chocks - 79 ice pitons - none bolt pitons - 7 including for creating ITO - 21
Total climbing hours - 38
Number of nights on the route - 3
Team from the Irkutsk Regional Council with DSO "Burevestnik"
Team members: Popov Valery Nikolayevich - Candidate Master of Sports - captain Mikhailov Andrey Andreevich - Candidate Master of Sports - member Ponomarchuk Viktor Semenovich - Candidate Master of Sports - member Zhila Andrey Yuvinialievich - 1st sports category - member
Team coach: Koreneva Irina Efimovna - Master of Sports - senior instructor
Dates of departure and return: August 19, 1978 - departure onto the route August 20, 1978 - work on the route August 21, 1978 - work on the route August 22, 1978 - ascent to the summit and descent to the base camp

Galitsyn Yu.'s route, 1977 Popov V.'s route, 1978, invisible part of the route

August 18, 1978. The team, along with the observation and safety group, approached the wall and set up a base camp. Through binoculars, we once again examined the route, preparing ourselves for the upcoming challenge.

The wall rises like a kilometer-high cliff above the gorge, making it clear that the battle will be tough and uncompromising.

A scree slope leads up to the wall. The lower part of the wall is intersected by an almost horizontal terrace, where, near a waterfall gushing out of the wall, a small birch grove clings.

We decided to consider this spot as the start of the route, although there is about 150 m of rocky terrain before the grove.

August 19, 1978 - the day of departure onto the route. After 1 hour and 20 minutes, we pass the first rocky belt. Before us are vertical, gray rocks resembling sheep's foreheads.

Climbing is challenging, with minimal handholds. Cracks are mostly filled with clay and debris.

After 120 m, having overcome a small cornice, we emerge onto a steep, inclined shelf leading to a vertical inner corner, the upper part of which overhangs. Using the entire arsenal of mountaineering techniques, mainly free climbing, we reach the base of the next inner corner.

After 100 m of very difficult climbing:

we emerge onto a steep shelf;
where we set up camp for the night.

Control day. August 20, 1978. Before us lies a hanging, rust-colored belt, which would require "drilling" 45-50 m to overcome. Since the team strives to climb challenging sections with "clean" climbing, we abandoned this option.

With very challenging climbing, we move left, bypassing the monolithic overhang, and approach a hanging inner corner closed by a 1.5 m cornice. Using:

stoppers and cams;
rock pitons,

we emerge onto a steep, monolithic slab with minimal handholds, which leads us to a vertical inner corner, partially overhanging. To overcome this corner, one bolt piton was used, in addition to rock pitons.

Further along a gray, slag-covered slab, using a pendulum (120 m), we reach the site of the second night's stay. Control day.

For the day, we covered 300 m of exceptionally challenging rocks, complicated by the lack of cracks for piton placement.

August 21, 1978. At dawn, we begin the ascent up a vertical corner stretching 120 m, with smooth walls, overhanging at the top. Climbing is exceptionally challenging. The lack of handholds and cracks for regular rock pitons adds to the difficulty.

Using:

stoppers;
cams;
bolt pitons,

we overcome it. We set up camp 100 m from the ridge.

August 22, 1978. At 10:00, we reach the summit. The wall is conquered.

Table of main data for the ascent route to the SW peak of Zamin-Karor via the left part of the Western wall's couloir

elevation gain on the route - 1200 m, including challenging sections - 1001 m
route steepness - 86°

Date	Section	Steepness	Length, m	Terrain characteristics	Difficulty category of section	Method of overcoming	Weather	Stops	Time of departure	Climbing hours	Pitons (rock)	Pitons (chocks)	Pitons (bolt)	Overnight stay
Aug 19, 1978	R0–R1	85°	80	steep gray wall	5	challenging free climbing	clear	—	—	1	10	4	—	satisfactory in hammocks and on a platform
	R1–R2	90°	40	inner corner	5	very challenging free climbing	—	—	—	2	4	3	—	—
	R2–R3	95°	5	overhanging exit of inner corner	6	very difficult climbing ITO	—	—	—	1	2	1	—	—
	R3–R4	80°	40	inclined inner corner	5	challenging free climbing	—	—	—	1	4	—	—	—
	R4–R5	90°	40	unclearly defined inner corners	6	very challenging free climbing, partially ladders	—	—	21:00	2	5	4	—	—
	R5–R6	95°	5	overhanging exit of inner corner	6	very difficult climbing ITO	—	—	—	0.5	1	—	—	—
	R6–R7	75°	40	traverse left	5	challenging free climbing	—	—	—	0.5	3	6	—	—
	R7–R8	95°	8	gray inner corner, partially overhanging	6	very challenging free climbing, partially ladders	—	—	—	0.5	2	1	—	—
	R8–R9	85°	40	inner corner, bypassing a large slab	5	challenging free climbing, partially ITO	—	—	—	1	2	4	—	—
Aug 20, 1978	R12–R13	85°	60	tiled rocks	5	challenging free climbing	—	—	—	1	5	7	—	—
	R13–R14	65°	30	traverse left with elevation gain	5	challenging free climbing	—	—	—	1	5	5	—	—
	R14–R15	95°	10	inner corner with smooth walls	6	very challenging ITO	—	—	—	2	3	—	—	—
	R15–R16	100°	15	overhanging inner corner	6	very challenging ITO	—	—	21:00	2	4	—	—	—
	R16–R17	90°	30	gray wall	6	very challenging free climbing, few cracks	—	—	—	2	5	3	—	—
	R17–R18	90°	40	inner corner	6	challenging ITO	—	—	—	2	5	4	—	—
	R18–R19	85°	45	gray slab, few handholds	6	challenging, partially ITO	—	—	—	2	8	5	—	—
	R19–R20	85°	85	gray slab	6	challenging, partially ITO, pendulum	—	—	—	3	4	5	—	—
Aug 21, 1978	R20–R21	80°	25	crevice with good handholds	5	free climbing	—	—	—	1	5	6	—	—
	R21–R22	85°	30	wall with good handholds	5	free climbing	—	—	—	1	5	6	—	—
	R22–R23	90°	45	inner corner	6	very challenging ITO	—	—	19:00	3	14	1	—	lying down
	R23–R24	90°	30	inner corner	5	challenging free climbing	—	—	—	2	5	1	—	—
	R24–R25	90°	10	inner corner with crevice	6	exceptionally challenging climbing ITO	—	—	—	2	1	1	—	—
	R25–R26	140°	5	cornice with crevice	6	challenging ITO	—	—	—	1	2	1	—	—
	R26–R27	75°	40	slab	5	challenging climbing	—	—	—	1	6	—	—	—
Aug 22, 1978	R27–R28	80°	40	clear wall	5	challenging climbing	—	—	—	1	6	—	—	—
	R28–R29	90°	30	inner corner with crevice	5	challenging climbing	—	—	—	1	2	1	—	—
Total:										39	153	79	7

Evaluation of the team's actions and its members

All team members have been training and climbing together for several years.

Despite the significant technical, psychological, and physical strain of the route, the ascent proceeded in a calm atmosphere. Team members worked with full dedication, demonstrating high technique and tactical awareness.

Thanks to excellent rock climbing preparation, successful tactical decisions, and the application of the latest belaying methods, the team maintained a fairly high pace on the route.

Popov V.N. - a strong, goal-oriented athlete, possesses a strong will. Tactically aware, has excellent individual climbing technique. Constantly improves his technical level. For several years, he has been leading ascents of the highest difficulty category. Principled and demanding.

Mikhailov A.A. - a very calm and composed athlete. Tactically and technically competent. Able to assess the situation soberly and make the right decisions.

Ponomarchuk V.S. - a very strong, strong-willed athlete. Possesses high individual climbing technique. An excellent teammate.

Zhila A.Yu. - has excellent climbing technique. Constantly improves his technical and tactical level.

Team coach I. Koreneva Team captain V. Popov