Ascent Passport
- Ascent category — technical ascent
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge
- Peak — proposed name — CHELYABINSK peak 4363.6 m
- Ascent route — via the western edge Proposed category — 4B
- Height difference — 700 m Length of complex sections — 170 m. Average steepness — 40°
- Pitons driven: safety — 50, for creating ITO — 0, rock — -50, ice — 0, bolt — 0
- Number of travel hours — 14 Number of overnight stays — none
- Full name of leader, participants, their qualification:
- RETYUNSKY YU.D. — 1st sports category, leader
- IVASHCHENKO A.S. — 1st sports category
- MESHKOV YU.B. — 1st sports category
- SCHUKIN V.I. — 1st sports category
- Team coach — LEVIN MIKHAIL SEMENOVICH — senior instructor, Master of Sports of the USSR
- Date of departure and return July 14, 1976
Photo 2. General view of the route.
Table of main route characteristics
Gissar Ridge, CHELYABINSK peak 4363.6 m from the west along the edge. First ascent.
| № | Date | Length (m) | Steepness (°) | Terrain characteristics | Difficulty | Section condition | Belay: No. of pitons | Climbing conditions | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R0 | July 14, 1976 | 20 | 80 | Wide rock ledge | Small scree | -, - | Clear, hot. Simultaneous movement. | Departure from bivouac at 6:00 | |
| R1 | 30 | 100 | Rocky ridge | 2 | Monolith, many holds | 1, 1 | Simultaneous | At control tour by 9:30. Possible overnight stay. There is a place for bivouac. | |
| R2 | 150 | 140 | Small ledge, followed by a ledge, an implicit inner corner turning into an oblique crack | 1 | Monolithic rocks in the upper part. Small sharp stones. | 1, 4 | Alternating movement | ||
| R3 | 70 | 70 | Wall | 1 | Monolith. Few holds, rocks fall from above, but pass by. | 8 | Belay. First one free climbing, the rest via fixed ropes. | ||
| R4 | 100 | 8 | Overhanging crack | 4 | Many holds, live rocks at the top. | 1, 2 | Alternating | ||
| R5 | 10 | 30 | Rocky ridge | 1 | Severely destroyed | - | Simultaneous | ||
| R6 | 40 | 40 | Rocky ridge, followed by a 50 cm wide, 30 m long ledge | 3 | Monolith, many protrusions | 1, 2, 1 | Belay. Alternating. | ||
| R7 | 60 | 50 | Wide inner corner turning into a chimney | 4 | Monolith, few holds. | 4, 4 | Belay. First one climbing, the rest via fixed ropes. | ||
| R8 | 190 | 80 | Monolithic wall | 5 | Monolith, few holds | 1, 2 | Piton belay. Via fixed ropes. | ||
| R9 | 150 | 30 | Wall | 4 | Monolith, many holds | 1, 4 | Piton belay. Alternating movement. | ||
| R10 | 10 | 60 | Rocky ridge | 1 | Scree | - | Simultaneous | ||
| R11 | 40 | 30 | Small couloir. A little snow leads to the main shoulder. | 3 | Loose snow in the couloir. | 2, 1, 1 | Belay. Alternating. | ||
| R12 | 50 | 60 | Wall leads to an overhang. | 4 | Monolith, many holds | 1, 6 | Belay. Alternating. | ||
| R13 | 70 | 10 | Bypassing the overhang. Implicitly expressed crack. | 4 | Few holds | 2, 1 | Belay. Alternating. | ||
| R14 | 15 | 60 | Destroyed ridge | 2 | Large stones | - | Simultaneous, using protrusions. | ||
| R15 | 50 | 80 | Inner corner turning into a crack. | 4 | Monolith, smooth holds | 1, 5 | Belay. Via fixed ropes. | ||
| R16 | 20 | 40 | Rocky ridge leading to a 1 m wide ledge. | 2 | Destroyed ridge | 1, 1 | On the ledge. Simultaneous belay. | ||
| R17 | 50 | 20 | Wall | 4 | Many holds | 1, 2 | Piton belay. Alternating. | ||
| R18 | 70 | 40 | Rocky ridge | 3 | Many protrusions | - | Belay. Alternating. Using protrusions. | Return to bivouac at 20:05. Travel hours — 14. |
Descent via the ascent route, mainly climbing with belay. On sections: R2, R4, R7, R8, R9, R15 — descent is sports rappelling. Pitons — 6.
Leader: Yu.D. Retyunsky
Brief explanation for the table
The group completed the route in clear, cloudless weather. There is no water on the route. Snow on section R11 melts completely by August. The group took 750 g of water for the route, which was sufficient. The camera broke on section R12.
Almost the entire route goes along the walls on the right side of the ridge. There are no bypasses along the entire route. The external view of the route appears simpler than it actually is. The rocks are dry, and the route is climbed in galoshes.
By the end of the first section, there are gentle "ram's foreheads." On section R3, the rope dislodges stones. The chimney at the top of section R7 is narrow. One of the key sections of the route is R8. The sub-summit is dissected, and the summit is a round area surrounded on three sides by rocky outcrops and drops off with walls.
Descent is via the ascent route.
