Zarafshan Range

Mountain range5,471.74 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
0

### Route Description to the Summit via the Northeast Ice Ridge Details the ascent and descent with technical specifics.

It seems logical to avoid these walls and go around them, even though the ice in the upper part is steep, because the rocks here are heavily destroyed and climbing them is not pleasant. After reaching the ridge, it is necessary to change into shoes with rubber soles, as trekking boots do not hold at all on the limestone rocks that make up the summit rocks. The first two ropes along the ridge pass through heavily destroyed rocks, with short walls in some places. We come to a 30-meter wall, which we climb through a crack in the middle part. The crack can be approached via an inclined rock-ice platform. After the crack, there is a platform, and on it, another rope of rocks leads to the beginning of the ice ridge running from the northeast to the summit dome. After climbing just over 5 ropes, it is necessary to change back into crampons and ice axes, as the route continues on ice to the summit. The lower part of the ice ridge is a system of muldas and vertical ice walls up to 4-6 m high, bounded on the left by rocks that drop down steeply to the southeast, and on the right by a steep (up to 60°) ice-snow slope of the pre-summit ridge. After 80 m, we reach a relatively gentle part of the ridge. Now there is also snow and ice on the left, with a mulda below. We ascend along this ridge, moving simultaneously, to the pre-summit plateau, and from there to the summit. The length of the upper part of the ridge is about 120 m. The pre-summit plateau is a wide rock bowl filled with thawed ice, with talus shelves on the left. It is possible to spend the night here. It takes 15-20 minutes to reach the summit from here. The descent from the summit is in the direction of the pass between the peaks Zindon and SOAN.

0
0

Description of the route to the summit with a challenging ice ascent and relatively straightforward rock sections, including recommendations for necessary equipment.

From leaving for the route to descending to the glacier, the group spent 13.5 hours on the route, including rest on the ridge, at the summit, and on the col. Time breakdown by sections:

  • Leaving the bivouac on the right moraine of Chimtarginsky Pass
  • Approaching the bergschrund
  • 1.5 hours Ascending ice to the rocky ridge
  • 4.5 hours Ascending rocks to the pre-summit ridge
  • 3.0 hours ascending the ridge to the summit
0
0

Description of a technically challenging route, category 5B, to the summit of SOAN (4750 m) via the northern wall of the northwestern ridge in the Fann Mountains.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class - technically challenging
  2. Ascent area - Fann Mountains, Levyy Zindon gorge
  3. Ascent route, peak, its height - Mt. SOAN, 4750 m, north face of the north-west ridge
  4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference - 1400 m, route length - 2400 m, length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. - 390 m, average steepness:
    • walls - 65-70°
    • ridge - 30°
  6. Pitons driven:
0
0

Description of a technical ascent category 5Б to the summit of SOА (4750 m) in the Fann Mountains via the North Face.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Fann Mountains, Levyy Zindon gorge
  3. Ascent object: SOAN via N wall of NW ridge, height 4750 m
  4. Difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 1400 m, length 2400 m, length of sections VIk/tr: 430 m, average steepness of the wall 65–70°, ridge 30°
0
0

Technical ascent description of category 5 difficulty level to the summit of SOAN (4750 m) in the Fann Mountains via the North-Eastern wall.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class - technical
  2. Ascent area - Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains
  3. Peak, its height - SOAN, 4750 m, northeast wall
  4. Estimated difficulty category - 5.5
  5. Route characteristics: height difference - 1300 m, section length - 5-6 km, tr. - 645 m, average steepness of main sections - 72°
  6. Pitons driven: for belaying; for creating ITO. Rock - 183, stoppers and eccentrics - 42, bolted - 4
  7. Number of climbing hours - 42
0
0

Description of the route 2A category of difficulty to the top Tashkentent (3900 m) by the northern edge in the Fann Mountains.

2. Climbing area — Fan Mountains. 3. Summit — Tashkentent — 3900 m via the North Ridge. 4. Presumed difficulty category — 2A. 5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 500 m. b) average steepness — 45°. c) length of sections with 5th difficulty category — none. 6. Pitons hammered for belay: - rock pitons — 4 pcs. - ice screws — none.

0
0

Description of the ascent to the top of Tashkentets (3500 m) along the western ridge, difficulty category 3B, elevation gain 240 m, duration 7 hours.

  1. Class of ascent — technical
  2. Region of ascent — Fan Mountains.
  3. Summit Tashkentets 3600 m via the southwest spur of the Western ridge.
  4. Route 3A cat. difficulty.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 240 m, average steepness 45°
  6. Pitons driven: rock — 14, ice pitons were not used.
  7. Number of climbing hours — 7
  8. There were no overnight stays on the route.
0
0

Climbing route description to the summit URECH (3400 m) via East Ridge in the Fann Mountains, category of difficulty 2A.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area, ridge — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. URECH, 3400 m, via the Eastern Edge
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A cat. diff.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 500 m, total route length — 790 m, average steepness — 30°
  6. Pitons hammered:
0
0

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Urech (3400 m) via the left part of the North-East wall in the Fann Mountains, with a difficulty category of 3B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
  2. Climbing area, range — Zarafshan Range, Fann Mountains.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Urech, 3400 m, via the left part of the NE wall.
  4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m. average steepness — 50°. length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 40 m.
  6. Number of rock pitons hammered for belay — 26.
0
0

Description of a 3B category difficulty rock climbing ascent to the summit of Urech (3400 m) in the Fann Mountains via the North-Eastern wall.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — Rock Climbing 2. Ascent Region — Fann Mountains, northern ridge of the nodal peak Aurondag in the Zeravshan Range 3. Peak — Urech, height — 3400 m, route — via the northeast wall 4. Proposed Difficulty Category — 3B 5. Elevation Gain — 450 m, average steepness — 40° 6. Pitons Hammered: for belaying for creating artificial anchor points

Rock Pitons13-
Ice Pitons--
0
0
Showing 211–220 of 324 results