PASSPORT

1. Technical class

2. Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Ridge, Alaudin Valley.

3. Chapdara peak (5053 m) via North-West wall

4. First ascent, 6B category of difficulty (tentative), combined

5. Height difference — 1650 m, length — 2230 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1055 m, including 6 category of difficulty — 465 m.

   Average steepness of the route — 71°. Average steepness of the wall section — 77° (3400–4775)

6. Number of pitons driven:

   

   Rock	Nuts	Bolt	Ice
   152	174	4	1B
   47	68	3	0

7. Number of climbing hours — 75 hours and days — 8

8. Number of bivouacs:

   • R1, R2, R3, R6 — semi-reclining
   • R4, R7 — reclining
   • R5 — sitting

9. Team leader — Merlis Viktor Petrovich, Master of Sports

   Team members:

   • Yumarov Viktor Vasilievich, Candidate Master of Sports
   • Lebedev Mikhail Vitalievich, Candidate Master of Sports
   • Sakharov Konstantin Alekseevich, Candidate Master of Sports
   • Telnov Alexander Alekseevich, Candidate Master of Sports

10. Coach — Vinokurov Anatoly Filippovich, Master of Sports

11. Date of departure on the route July 13, 1989 Summit reached on July 20, 1989 Return on July 20, 1989

12. Moscow Regional Sports Committee

Photo F1. General photo of the summit. Taken on July 21, 1989, 16:00. Distance to the subject approximately 3 km. Shooting point (F1), elevation of the shooting point 3100 m.

I. Kiseleva L. route via North-West wall (right route) II. Solonnikov V. route via North-West wall (left route) III. Moscow Regional Sports Committee team route IV. Melnikov route

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