From leaving for the route to descending to the glacier, the group spent 13.5 hours on the route, including rest on the ridge, at the summit, and on the col.

Time breakdown by sections:

  • Leaving the bivouac on the right moraine of Chimtarginsky Pass

  • Approaching the bergschrund

  • 1.5 hours

Ascending ice to the rocky ridge

  • 4.5 hours

Ascending rocks to the pre-summit ridge

  • 3.0 hours

ascending the ridge to the summit

  • 1.0 hour

descending to the col — 2.0 hours, descending from the col to the glacier — 1.5 hours

The main difficulty of the route is presented by the 12 rope lengths of ice in its first half, with the first 3 being on fairly steep натёчному ice. The rocks in the middle part of the route are not complicated and can be climbed with minimal piton protection (4–5 rock pitons).

The upper part of the route has two rope lengths of quite complex climbing on ice walls, and then leads to a simple ridge.

Recommendations on time.

Ropes— 2 × 40 m
Crampons— 4 pairs
Ice screw-дом­кра­ты— 2 pcs.
Ice axes— 2 pcs.
Ice pitons— 5–6 pcs.
Rock pitons— 3 pcs.
Dur­alu­min wedges— 1–2 pcs.
Carabiners— 10 pcs.

Attached files

Sources

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