on the left side, straight up to the rope to the end of the couloir, which ends with a chimney filled with ice. Climbing is extremely cautious, as there are many loose rocks.

Above the couloir is a sheer wall, so we traverse to the right through the couloir's throat and exit to its right side. It is necessary to cross the couloir quickly due to the hanging crevice, from which pieces of ice break off and shoot through this couloir.

In this section, the belay is piton (4 pitons), movement is along the fixed ropes.

Section 56

From the couloir, we move to the rocks, which are steep but heavily dissected. Straight up, we climb one rope to a small ledge, where we can gather everyone.

The time is already late, and we still haven't found a suitable platform for the tent. After unsuccessful searches, we stop for a sitting bivouac.

There are two sloping ledges, one above the other, on which we can — after some construction work — sit.

There was no water on the entire route.

Section 7

We set out at 9:30 due to the western exposure of the wall. The rocks are still cold.

• Climb straight up for 80 m
• On fairly monolithic rocks with a steepness of 75–80°
• Exit at the end of the section to a ledge through a crack in the wall

Climbing is difficult. Many loose rocks.

Section 8: After the wall, we manage to organize a reception for the lower comrades. Then there is a 30-meter traverse to the right, bypassing the "ram's foreheads". Gradually, we gain height:

• At first, along a narrow, intermittent ledge,
• Then along steep but dissected rocks.

This section ends with a 20-meter wall with a steepness of 80–85°. The exit to the wall is via an internal corner. Climbing the corner and wall is difficult, but we can organize a reliable belay, as there are many cracks where wedges fit well. 4 pitons were driven in from wedges. Above the wall is a scree platform suitable for a bivouac.

Section 9

• From the platform, we move from left to right, gradually gaining height, to the pre-summit ridge
• We covered 3 ropes, drove in 6 pitons
• The section is of moderate difficulty, sheer walls alternate with dissected rocks
• Before the pre-summit ridge — a very large platform for a bivouac
• From the platform, the path along the ridge to the summit is clearly visible
• The 2nd control point becomes visible
• The entire path from the bivouac to the large platform is characterized by a large number of "live" rocks, which significantly slows down the pace of movement

Section 10

From the platform, we make a straightforward, uncomplicated exit to the ridge. Severely destroyed rocks with a steepness of 45–50°, as if strewn with rubble, are traversed with simultaneous insurance. Then, along the snowy ridge, we exit to the summit.

Section 11: 1100 meters above sea level, we leave a note on the summit and begin the descent towards the saddle between AMEUT and KRASNaya MOSKOVA. At first, we descend along a natural stone corridor, which after 150–200 m leads to a steep, precipitous ridge descending down towards KRASNaya MOSKOVA. After reconnaissance, it becomes clear that there is no easy path from the summit. Later, after descending from the summit, the group circled around AMEUT and became convinced that there was no easy descent from the summit.

After the corridor, we began to descend cautiously, climbing, sometimes in a sportsmanlike manner, along the ridge down. Climbing during the descent is tense, as the rocks are smooth and steeply sloping on both sides of the ridge. On the first day of the descent, we organized:

• 2 "dolphins" of 40 m,
• 1 "dolphin" of 20 m.

The late descent forced us to stop for a bivouac before reaching the saddle. For the bivouac, we chose an almost meter-wide shelf, to which we descended using "dolphins", on the eastern wall of v. AMEUT. After some construction work on the platform, we managed to set up a "pom-prn" tent.

Section 12

At 8:30 in the morning, we left the bivouac and returned to the ridge. Two ropes along the ridge and over the "ram's foreheads" in a sportsmanlike manner brought us just below the saddle between AMEUT and KRASNaya MOSKVA. During the descent, 14 pitons were driven in. On the saddle, we set up the 4th control point. By passing around AMEUT from the western side, we reached the AMEUT pass in the Shnukoi camp.