Peak Amshut (4850 m) via the West Face, Cat. 4B

The group set out at 9:00 from the assault camp (Amput Pass, approx. 4000 m) for the first ascent of Amshut Peak via the west face. Rounding the steeply dropping walls of Amshut via scree and snow, we reach a saddle from which the route begins. The saddle is lower than the pass level. Here, we set up the 1st control cairn. Section #1. From Cairn #1, we face "ram's foreheads" with a steepness of 45–50°. The 70-meter ascent is initially done with alternate belays, then one rope is fixed as a handrail, and it ends at a ledge before the wall. Two pitons are hammered in. Section #2. From the ledge, we climb 8 meters straight up the wall with a steepness of 80–85°. Then, we move left under the overhanging outer corner into a narrow, long cleft. When transitioning from one wall to another, we're thrown back. The almost 50-meter cleft, gradually rising at a 45° angle, cuts through the overhanging vertical wall above and ends at a "balcony." There are many "tricky" rocks along the way, and the first climber has to proceed with utmost care, clearing the path. The cleft is shallow; holds are unreliable due to the friable rock, and pitons don't hold well. This is a psychologically tense section. Free climbing and piton belays are used. Five pitons and 2 wedges are hammered in along the 60-meter path. Section #3. On the "balcony," we organize a reception point for the lower team members. Then, we traverse left along a narrow shelf into a steeply dropping gully with smooth rocks. The right side of the gully is icy. We move straight up the left side under the overhanging rocks. Climbing is unpleasant due to the smooth, monolithic rocks; it's hard to hammer in pitons, and we mostly have to rely on friction, with a sheer wall drop below. The steepness of this section is initially 75–80°. Five pitons are hammered in along the two-rope length. We exit from under the overhanging rocks to the right, onto a rope stretched across the gully, to a narrow, steeply dropping ridge that divides the upper part of the gully into left and right sections, like the prow of a ship. The start of the gully traverse is difficult, across smooth rocks. Wedges and pitons are used as anchor points. Three pitons and 2 wedges are hammered in. Section #4. Before the ridge, under an overhanging cleft in the wall, there's a small shelf. Just above the shelf, there's a very difficult passage over the sharp ridge. Climbing is challenging. The ridge here is almost a vertical saw blade with few holds. To climb onto the ridge crest, you grab a belay piton with your left hand, reach up to the crest with your right hand, and then quickly swing your second hand up and pull yourself up. You're thrown back due to the negative slope of the wall. A total of 7 pitons and 1 wedge are hammered in at this section. It's not recommended to traverse the ridge lower down, as the lower part of the gully is systematically swept by seracs. There's no shelter. Section #5. Beyond the ridge lies a closed, narrow ledge where the remaining participants can be received. Then, we proceed across smooth rocks with a steepness of 75–80°, holding onto