Description of the Ascent of the Northern Ridge of Kurkurek Peak in the North Chuya Range

The actual climbing route along the northern ridge of Kurkurek begins after the climbers, having left their camp, descend to the transfer base at the beginning of the Aktru gorge and then ascend through the windfalls and debris of the taiga to the foot of the peak. Although this does not relate to the climbing difficulty of the ascent, it requires a significant initial expenditure of energy from the sports group over 8–10 hours. A bivouac, from which the ascent up the northern ridge of the peak begins, can be set up on the ridge itself. Initially, it is not difficult, starting as a steep grassy slope (1 hour's walk), followed by a gentle (25°) fine and medium talus, and then a steeper (35°) coarse quartz talus. Further along, the ridge becomes more pronounced but remains easily passable, as its ascents are not steep, and the width of the ridge is sufficient for setting up a tent. From the river at the tongue of the Kurkurek glacier to the extremely convenient sites for an overnight stay, located directly on the ridge, it takes approximately 3 hours. The overnight stay is located about 900–1000 meters below the peak. The path is then blocked by six more or less pronounced gendarmes composed of shale rocks. The first three gendarmes are bypassed on the right, the fourth and fifth are climbed head-on, and the sixth is traversed on the right along a ledge at the boundary of a snowfield that steeply descends onto the Kurkurek glacier between the northern and northwestern ridges of the peak. The time required by the group to overcome this section is 2.5 hours.

V. Kzyl­tash from Kon­teyner Pass, Cat. 1B

From the camp, move in the direction of Ak­tru Glacier. Walk along the slopes of v. Kzyl­tash, following the river bed until big rocky "ram's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep talus slope. Further:

• walk along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of v. Stazh­erov;
• the lake is located behind a moraine rampart;
• on the moraine — a glaciologists' tent;
• 2–2.5 hours walking from the camp;
• a convenient place for an overnight stay.

V. Kzyl-Tash via Uchetel' Pass, cat. 3

From the lower building of Aktru weather station, ascend via a wide couloir, along its right side on an old trail in the direction of Uchetel' Pass. The ascent to the north-eastern ridge of Uchetel' Pass takes 1–1.5 hours. Move along the easy ridge in the direction of the summit for 30–40 minutes until the first difficult sections, before which it is necessary to rope up. Continue in rope teams, moving alternately or simultaneously with protection via rock outcrops. On the ridge, several gendarmes are encountered, which can be bypassed:

• to the right,
• on snow,
• on rock ledges. The north-eastern ridge ends with a 40-meter wall with an inside corner, which leads to the south-eastern summit ridge (2–2.5 hours). The inside corner, the key section of the route, is covered with ice. It is climbed with thorough piton protection. Further movement proceeds mainly along the left part of the south-eastern ridge. The last gendarme before the summit is bypassed to the right on snow. The ascent to the summit tower is on the right side of the tower (2–2.5 hours). Descent from the summit is via route 1B, cat. 3, to Konteyner Pass. Descent time is 3–3.5 hours.

1.2. North Chuya Range, Aktru gorge

Kzyl-Tash 3486 m via the North slope of the Southwest ridge

Proposed category: 3B, first ascent Route type: snow-ice. Note: height (3486.4) is as per the published 1:50,000 map available on the Internet. Altitude difference as per the group's altimeter: 520 m Route length — 900 m (estimated); including 400 m of category 3 difficulty, between 45° to 50° Average steepness of the entire route — 35° Equipment used on the ascent: 12 ice screws, no rock pitons or stoppers (no protection left behind) Climbing hours on July 16, 2005: from Aktru alpine camp (2100 m) to Uchyitel' pass (3100 m) — 1.5 h (4:00–5:30),

Ascent Certificate

1. Altai, Severo-Chuyskie Belki ridge, Aktru gorge, section 1.2.
2. Kzyl-Tash peak 3486 m, via the middle ridge of the Southern slope.
3. Proposed category: 3A.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference 900 m, length 1400 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 40°.
6. Pitons used: rock and chocks — 15 pieces.
7. Team's travel time 8 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Leader: Afanasyev A.E., Master of Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Altai, Severo-Chuyskie Belki ridge, Akturu valley, section 1.
2. Kzyl-Tash peak, 3486 m, via the right ridge of the South slope.
3. Proposed category 3B, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Height difference — 1200 m, length — 3000 m, average slope — 30°, steepest section — 55°.
6. Pitons used: rock and chocks — 15.
7. Team's total climbing hours — 12 hours.
8. Leader — Afanasiev A.E., Master of Sports. Team members — Salin A.V., 1st sports category, Kuznetsova T.Yu., 2nd sports category.

Ascent Passport

1 Region — Altai Republic, North Chuya Range 2 Peak — Kyzyltash 3486 m via the northwest slope icefall 3 Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, first ascent. 4 Route characteristics — ice and snow. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain of the main part 480 m, route length — 740 m. length of sections

• 5th category of difficulty — 110 m.
• 4th category of difficulty — 190 m average steepness of the main part 55°

6. Equipment used on the route: ice screws — 74

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NOVOSIBIRSK REGION

Report

On the ascent of the team from Novosibirsk

to the summit of Kyzyl-Tash 3486 m via the northwest slope icefall. Presumably 4B category of difficulty. First ascent. Leader: Ivliev Andrey Vladimirovich Team members: Kulishova Alena Maratovna Pintusov Anton Nikolaevich Syutkin Andrey Leonidovich

Ascent Details

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF KZYLTASH VIA THE ROUTE "Icefall on the NW slope (from the left)" 4A category of complexity BY THE TEAM (RFSOO "FAiS NSO") FOR THE PERIOD FROM NOVEMBER 5 TO NOVEMBER 5, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

Passport

1. Technical category.
2. Altai, Maashey gorge.
3. V. Maashey, via the northern wall.
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain — 1125 m. Length 1510 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty — 150 m. Average steepness of the main part — 55°.
6. Pitons used: ice screws — 167; rock and placement pitons — 11.
7. Team's travel time — 21 hours, days — 2.