V. Kzyl­tash from Kon­teyner Pass, Cat. 1B

From the camp, move in the direction of Ak­tru Glacier. Walk along the slopes of v. Kzyl­tash, following the river bed until big rocky "ram's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep talus slope.

Further:

  • walk along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of v. Stazh­erov;
  • the lake is located behind a moraine rampart;
  • on the moraine — a glaciologists' tent;
  • 2–2.5 hours walking from the camp;
  • a convenient place for an overnight stay.

From the moraine lake, the path goes up in the direction of Kon­teyner Pass, keeping to the slopes of v. Kzyl­tash on the right. The ascent to the pass goes along a hard fine talus (2–2.5 hours).

From the pass:

  • up to the right along a rocky ridge;
  • the rocks are destroyed;
  • in the lower part, the movement is simultaneous, in the upper part — alternating, with protection through a ledge.

From the upper point of the ridge, a snowy ridge goes off to the left, leading to the summit of Kzyl­tash:

  • it is necessary to descend to the snowy ridge along a five-meter wall of average climbing difficulty with protection through a ledge;
  • ascend to the summit of Kzyl­tash along a simple snowy ridge.

Descent is by the ascent route.

Author: S. Kostryulev, Bratsk, Nemtsev S. Yu. et al.

Sources

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