Б­.­краса­ви­ца

Passport

1. Ice class
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Snezhnaya via the northwestern wall.
4. Proposed category 3B (first ascent).
5. Elevation gain 500 m. Length 750 m.
6. Ice screws 26 pcs.
7. Moving time 12 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. Overnight stay not required.
9. Leader Kirikov A.

V. Snezhnaya 3. North ridge couloir Drakin A.V. Altai. May 4, 1992

Passport

1. Class: snow-ice.
2. Altai: Severo-Chuysky ridge, Akturu gorge.
3. V. Snezhnaya via the western couloir of the north ridge.
4. Proposed category 2B first ascent.

As­cent cer­ti­fi­cate №1 Re­gion — Re­pub­lic of Al­tai, Se­ver­no-Chuйsky ridge Moun­tain — Snezhnaya 3800 m via the cen­ter of the north­west slope Sup­posed — CA cat. dif., first as­cent. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route — ice and snow. 5. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route: dif­fe­rence in height of the main part 540 m, length of the route — 870 m. Length of sec­tions 4 cat. dif. — 340 m, 3 cat. dif. — 360 m, 2 cat. dif. — 170 m. Av­er­age steep­ness of the main part — 45° 6. Used on the route: ice screws — 80 7. Num­ber of mov­ing hours — 7, days — 1. 8. Leader: Iv­liev An­drey Vla­di­mi­ro­vich 1st sports rank

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NOVOSIBIRSK REGION

Report

On the ascent of the team from Novosibirsk

to the summit Snezhnaia 3800 m via the center of the northwestern slope. Presumably 4A cat. diff. First ascent. Leader: Ivliev Andrei Vladimirovich Participants:

• Kulishova Alena Maratovna
• Pintsov Anton Nikolaevich
• Khudiakov Roman Konstantinovich

PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Region — Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge.
3. Peak Snezhnyaya (3800 m), via ice couloir on S wall, ice and snow route.
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 5A–5B (winter), first ascent.
5. Height difference: 1100 m. Wall height difference — 800 m. Length: 1700 m. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 655 m. Average steepness of the wall — 56° (2700–3500 m).

V. Stazhеров peak from Znachkistov pass, 2A cat.

From the camp, move up towards the Big Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash, following the riverbed, to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree. Further, move along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazhеров peak. On the moraine ridge, there is a glaciologists' camp, and behind the ridge, there is a lake. It takes 3–3.5 hours to walk from the camp. It is a convenient place for an overnight stay. From the moraine lake, move up towards Znachkistov pass. The ascent goes first along the scree, then along the snowy slope. Time — 1.5–2 hours.

Peak Stazhyorov from Znakchikov Pass, 2A cat. dif.

Approach

From the camp, move up towards the Big Akturu glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash, following the riverbed, to large rocky "sheepbacks" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree. Then move along the edge of the glacier. A glaciologists' camp is located on the moraine ridge, and beyond the ridge lies the Blue Lake. It takes 3–4.5 hours of walking from the camp. A convenient place to spend the night. From the moraine lake, move up towards the Znakchikov Pass. The ascent initially goes along scree or a snowy slope (depending on the season). Time — 1.5–2 hours.

Route

Then ascend the steep snow-ice slope to the summit ridge. Movement:

• initially simultaneous,
• then on steep snow-ice sections — alternating with belay (up to 45°). In the upper part of the slope, it may be necessary to cross a crevasse. Then along the summit ridge reach the summit.

PASSPORT

1. Category of first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Stazerov, 3rd category (3750 m)
4. 2B first ascent is proposed.
5. Descent from Bolshoy Aktru glacier is 760 m, length is 1600 m.
6. Ice screws — 5 pieces.
7. Travel hours from camp to camp — 10 hours.
8. Overnight stay was not organized, approach and overnight stay are possible (at "Goluboe ozero").

1.2. Severo-Chuyskiy ridge, Aktuu valley

STUDENTOV Vostochny 3745 m via the south-eastern ridge Proposed:

• Cat. diff. 2A, route No. 64-a
• Route type: combined Note: the height (3745.1) is taken from a published online map at 1:50,000 scale. Elevation gain according to the group's altimeter: 3750–2830 = 920 m. Route length:
• to the pass level — 2700 m (calculated)