Description of the team’s ascent to Khan-Tengri Peak via the Pogrebetsky route (southwestern slope) with a complexity category of 5B.
Passport High-altitude class Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek Glacier Peak Khan-Tengri via the southwest slope (Pogrebetsky route) Category 5B difficulty Elevation gain — 1095 m, length — 1700 m (main part of the route). Total elevation gain — 2595 m. Length of category 5 sections — 590 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 45°, category 5 sections — 55°–60° (6700–6850 m). Pitons used: Rock — 52, bolt — 0, chocks — 16, ice — 5. Team's travel hours: 18, days — 3.
Ascent of Khan Tengri peak (6995 m) via the New Western slope in 1998 by the team of Nagovitsyn and Rogoverov, description of the route and tactical actions of the team.
PASSPORT Altitude-technical class Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag range Peak Khan-Tengri, via south-west slope, 6995 m 2A cat. diff. Height difference — 2795 m Pitons driven: rock 0+8ˣ ice 1+2ˣ Climbing time — 12.5 hours, days — 2 Overnight stays: in a snow cave
Ascent description to the summit of Khan-Tengri via the South-West slope, category 5B difficulty level in 1990.
I. Altitude class Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge Khan Tengri peak via the Southwest slope Route difficulty category — 5B Elevation gain: 2695 m, length 3830 m Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 340 m. Average steepness of the route — 42°. Pitons driven: rock 9+9, chocks 16, ice screws 8+4 use of previously driven pitons Team's travel time: 13.5 hours, days — 2
The first winter ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the South-West slope, made by a team of International Master of Sports grade climbers led by V. Suviga in February 1992.
Passport Class — winter ascents Central Tien Shan, Tengri Tag ridge Peak Khan-Tengri via the southwest slope Proposed 6A first ascent in winter conditions Elevation gain: 2800 m (from the confluence of the Semenovsky and South Inylchek glaciers) Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45° (from the saddle between peaks Chapayev and Khan-Tengri to the summit of Khan-Tengri 5800–6995 m) Pitons used: rock — 6 pcs., ice — 4 pcs. Previously used pitons not removed — 12 pcs. Team's total climbing hours: 28 hours and 4 days
Ascent description for Khan Tengri Peak via the Southwest Ridge, category 5A, a combined route.
Ascent Passport Ascent class — high-altitude technical Region — Tian-Shan, Tengri Tag ridge, route № 7.9.8 Peak — Khan-Tengri, via the Southwest ridge Category of difficulty — 5A Route type — combined Route elevation gain — 2800 m. Route length — 5290 m. Length of sections with category difficulty — 1040 m. Average slope:
Ascent of Khan Tengri peak via the South-West slope, category 5B, made by a team from Severodvinsk in 1998.
Ascent Passport Ascent category: high-altitude and technical. Ascent region: Central Tian Shan, South Inylchek. Ascent route: Khan-Tengri peak via the Southwest slope, 4. M. Pogrebetsky 1931. Category of difficulty: 5B Route characteristics: elevation gain: 2985 (by altimeter), ascent length: –9 km, descent length: –9.4 km, section lengths: 5th category of difficulty – 120 m,
Climbing Peak Shokal'skogo via the North-East Face, Inyl'chek Range, with a detailed analysis of the route's tactics and technical details, Category 6 complexity.
Passport Class of high-altitude technical ascents Inylchek Ridge Peak Shokal'skogo via the northeast wall Complexity category — 6 Height difference — 1172 m. Total route length — 1362 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 824 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 71° Pitons hammered: | 135 | 4 | 109 | 53 | | :-- | :- | :-- | :-- | | 46 | 4 | 41 | 0 |
The traverse of the SAVO - Vazha Pshavela peaks in the Central Tian Shan, expedition of the "Burevestnik" team in 1972.
Report Peaks SAVO (6088)—Vazha Pshavela (6918) Central Tien Shan Expedition of CS and MGS SDSO "Burevestnik" Glukhov V.V.—captain, MSMS Bobrov V.I.—coach, CMS Zasetsky V.G.—participant, CMS Petruk V.P.—participant, CMS Soustin B.P.—participant, MS
Report on the ascent of Pik Pobedy (7439 m) via the North Ridge from Diky Pass, category 5B, made by Belarusian climbers in 2019.
Belarusian Federation of Alpinism Report on the ascent to the summit of Peak Pobeda 7439, Zap. Pobeda, Main, via the north edge from Dikiy Pass, 5B, by D. Medzmariashvili 2019 Route Passport Mountain region: Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan. Name of the summit: Peak Pobeda (7439 m). Category of difficulty: 5B high-altitude. Nature of the route: snow-rock-ice. Route: Zvezdochka glacier, Dikiy Pass, Peak Pobeda West along the northern edge, Peak Pobeda Main, 7439 m, descent via the ascent route;
Description of a 6A category complexity route to the summit of Pobeda (7439 m) in the Central Tian Shan via Dykiy Pass and the West Ridge.
Passport Altitude class. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge. Pobeda (Main) via Dikiy Pass over Pobeda (3) by 3rd category. 6A category of complexity. Elevation difference: 3039 m, distance — 10090 m. The average steepness of the main part of the route (Western ridge from Dikiy Pass to 6700 m) – 44° (5230 m – 6700 m), the whole route – 19° (4400 m – 7439 m). Previously hammered-in pitons: 15 rock, 8 ice, 1 snow (not removed). Hammered-in pitons: rock – 0, ice – 0, snow – 0. Team's walking hours: 26 hours, 5 days.