Khrebet Inylchektau

Ascent of Pobeda Main Peak (7439 m) via the North-Eastern Counterfort in 1990, category III, first ascent.

Pobeda Main 7439 m. Ascent via the NE buttress. Central Tian-Shan. PASS Category of altitude ascents. Central Tian-Shan, Zvezdochka glacier. Peak Pobeda Main via NE buttress. First ascent, proposed category 5B. Elevation gain — 2639 m, route length — 3870 m. Length of 6A category sections — 290 m. Average steepness of the route — 44°. Average steepness of 6A category sections: 50° (5192–5264); 70° (6026–6066); 50°, 65° (6144–6240); 60° (6608–6648); 75° (6816–6834). Pitons left on the route (not removed) — none. Insurance points organized on the route:

Report by the Rostov Region team on the ascent of Peak Pobeda via the Abalakov route, category 6A.

Russian Mountaineering Championship in the high-altitude class 2018 Report of the Rostov Region team on the ascent of Pik Pobedy Gl. (7439) from the north via the Abalakov route, 6A category of difficulty Climbing Passport Region: Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Too range Peak, route: Pik Pobedy Gl. (7439) from the north (V. Abalakov route)

Report on the ascent of Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m) by the joint expedition of the "Spartak" society and the Kazakh Alpine Club in 1956.

Report On the Ascent of Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m) by the Joint Expedition of the Spartak Society and the Kazakh Alpine Club in July-August 1956 Description of the Area, Brief Description of Previous Ascent Attempts, and Expedition Objectives Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m) is located in the eastern Tian Shan, in the East Kok-Shaal-Tau range, along the state border between the Soviet Union and the Chinese People's Republic. The section of the range where Peak Pobeda is situated stretches latitudinally and represents a vast glaciated massif - a wall about 15 kilometers long, sharply rising above the surrounding mountains. Even the lowest parts of the wall exceed 6.5 km in height. At the foot of the northern slopes of the wall lies the Zvezdochka Glacier, a major tributary of the Inylchek Glacier. The wall rises above the Zvezdochka Glacier throughout its length by 2.5-3 km. The highest point of the massif, Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m), is located in the middle part of the massif. Here, the ridge is elevated 600-700 m above the rest of the range for about 500-600 m, with no significant changes in height along this section. On the northern slope of the wall, a prominent counterfort extends towards the Zvezdochka Glacier. To the east, the massif is bounded by the sharp and deep Chon-Tareng pass. The pass saddle is limited on the side of Peak Pobeda by a local rise in the ridge (about 6900 m), which we will conditionally refer to as the Eastern Peak of Pobeda. To the northeast of the pass lies Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m), from which a heavily dissected ridge, Ak-Tau, extends westward.

Report on the ascent of Peak Pobeda 7439 m via the North Ridge by the team of CS SDO "Spartak" in the high-altitude climbing category in 1970.

Federation of Alpineism of the USSR 1970 Alpinism Championship Report on the ascent of Peak Pobeda 7439 m via the Northern ridge (Northeastern edge) by the combined team of CS DSO “Spartak” in the category of high-altitude ascents. Leningrad 1970 I. Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object The most southerly and largest ridge of the Soviet Tian Shan is the Kokshaal-Tau ridge, along which the border between the Soviet Union and China runs. The highest section of the ridge, stretching for 115 km, constitutes the massif of Peak Pobeda, the most northerly seven-thousander on Earth (7439 m). To the north of the Chon-Teren pass, the Ak-Tau ridge branches off the Kokshaal-Tau ridge to the northwest, separating the Zvezdochka glacier and the upper reaches of the Inylchek glacier. The northern slopes of Peak Pobeda rise above the Zvezdochka glacier from the Chon-Teren pass to the Diky pass. They represent a grandiose, almost sheer rock wall with alternating belts of dark and light-colored rocks. Only on individual ledges of the ridges and in the less steep parts of the wall can ice accumulate, forming powerful hanging glaciers from which large sections of ice continually break off, crashing down in enormous avalanches.

First ascent of Peak Pobeda 7439m via the right bastion of the ice balcony on the north face, 6B cat. diff.

406 Ascent Passport Region — Central Tien Shan, № 7.5. Peak — Pobeda 7439 m, via the right bastion of the ice balcony on the north face. Proposed route — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. Route characteristics — combined. Route description: elevation gain — 2639 m, wall section elevation gain — 1850 m, route length — 4000 m,

Report on the first ascent of the north face of the East Summit of Peak Pobeda (7439 m) by a team from the Armed Forces of the USSR in 1984, grade 6 difficulty.

XXXV USSR Alpine Championship 1984. High-altitude Class REPORT on the ascent of Peak Pobeda (7439 m) via the north face of the eastern peak (first ascent) by the team of the USSR Armed Forces Team leader: V.N. Khrishtatyy, coach: E.T. Ilyinsky, Honored Master of Sports, Honored Coach of the USSR Addresses and phone numbers: Team leader - Valery Nikolayevich Khrishtatyy Address: 480021, Alma-Ata, Kurganazy St., 15, apt. 8 Phone: 61-27-25, p. 63-39-62 Team coach - Ervand Tikhonovich Ilyinsky Address: 480012, Alma-Ata, Seyfullin St., 537, apt. 4

Ascent of the CS VDSO "Trud" team to the summit Pobeda Eastern (7060 m) via the North Face in Tian Shan, 6th cat. of diff., first ascent.

Passport High-altitude category Tian-Shan, Inylchek gorge Pobeda Eastern peak (7060 m) via the north face Category 6B assumed, first ascent Height difference 2000 m, length — 2560 m (face) Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty categories — 2540 m Average steepness of the main part of the route 68° (5000–7000 m), including 6th category difficulty — 92° (6170–6180 m), 90° (5180–5200 m, 5830–5865 m, 6022–6040 m, 6215–6250 m, 6363–6380 m, 6945–6955 m), 80° (5055–5070 m, 5142–5160 m, 5630–5785 m, 5885–6000 m, 6930–6945 m), 75° (6965–7000 m), 70° (5800–5818 m). Pitons driven | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |

Report on the ascent made by the "Bars" alpine club team to Peak Neru and Zapadnaya Pobeda in the Central Tien Shan in 1995 via a Category III route.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — high-altitude. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan. Ascent route — Peak Neru – Western Pobeda. Complexity category — 6B (approximate). Ascent characteristics: route length — approx. 10450 m. height difference — 2750 m. average steepness up to the northern shoulder of Peak Neru — 60°.

First ascent description of 6th cat. difficulty grade route on the left part of the North-East face of Neru peak in the Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Tau range.

I. High-altitude category Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Tau ridge Peak Neru via the left part of the northeast face Proposed 6th category of difficulty, first ascent Elevation gain – 2430 m, route length – 2960 m Average steepness of the main part of the route – 55° (4300–6744), including 360 m of 6th category of difficulty Pitons hammered: rock 65, bolts – 0, protection 27,

Report on the first ascent of Pik Dikiy (4930 m) via the eastern slope and northern ridge, Kokshealtau range.

7.5.71 Route Label | Peak Dikiy, via the eastern slope and northern ridge | Difficulty Category | | :----------------------------------------------------: | :------------------: | | Pugachyov Ivan Anatolyevich | | | Kokshaal-Too Range | | | №7.5, 71 | | Report On the first ascent of Peak Dikiy (4930 m) via the eastern slope and northern ridge