Report

Peaks SAVO (6088)—Vazha Pshavela (6918)

Central Tien Shan

Expedition of CS and MGS SDSO "Burevestnik"

Glukhov V.V.—captain, MSMS
Bobrov V.I.—coach, CMS
Zasetsky V.G.—participant, CMS
Petruk V.P.—participant, CMS
Soustin B.P.—participant, MS

Peaks SAVO (6088) and Vazha Pshavela (6918) are located in the Kokshal-Tau ridge of Central Tien Shan.

Between these peaks in the ridge are three more summits:

• peak Dybenko (6060),
• an unnamed, previously unconquered peak (6537),
• and, finally, peak Neru (6740).

The area of Central Tien Shan adjacent to the Kokshal-Tau ridge with the glaciers South Inylchek, Zvezdochka, Dikiy and Komsomolets is one of the harshest in our mountains. It is characterized by extreme weather instability, powerful glaciation, an abundance of snow and associated high avalanche danger.

Despite this, the Kokshal-Tau ridge is very attractive to mountaineers as it poses new technical and tactical challenges of any difficulty. Therefore, this area has been attracting more and more mountaineering teams and is becoming increasingly visited.

The "Burevestnik" team has gained sufficient experience in developing this challenging area in the 1970 and 1971 expeditions, when peaks Pobeda, Neru, Khan-Tengri, Vazha Pshavela, etc. were conquered. Therefore, in 1972, the task was set to further develop this area, namely to pass the traverse of peaks SAVO—Neru—Pobeda.

The new, previously unattempted peak 6537 was particularly attractive. And a traverse of such length - 24 km, with an average height of 6500 m in such a harsh area - is a new challenge.

But the "Burevestnik" traverse team only partially accomplished their task, having completed the most interesting - previously unconquered - part of the declared route from peak SAVO to peak Vazha Pshavela.

The unusual harsh weather conditions of 1972, when it snowed for 9 out of 10 days of the traverse, led to the illness of one of the participants and did not allow the traverse to be completed as planned. But the completed part is complex and interesting in its novelty, so the ascenders and the "Burevestnik" leadership considered it possible to submit the route for the 1972 USSR Championship in the traverse class.

There were one ascent each on peaks SAVO, Dybenko and Neru in 1970 and 1971, but by different or partially different routes.

Therefore, it can be considered that the traverse of peaks SAVO—Vazha Pshavela is a first ascent with the conquest of a new, previously unattempted peak 6537, named peak "Pamyati ekipazha Soyuz-10".

The traverse route turned out to be combined with a predominance of snow and ice sections, approximately 12 km long and with an average height of about 6200–6300 m.

The ascent to peak SAVO is also a combined route, containing:

• 60% snow and ice sections;
• 40% rocks covered with ice and snow,

which greatly complicates the progress along them.

Further, the main difficulty is narrow snow ridges with giant multi-ton cornices and very steep, up to 40–45°, slopes to the south. In general, this area (especially the Komsomolets glacier area) is of great interest to mountaineers. There are many peaks around 6000 m that have not yet been climbed and are waiting for their conquerors (peak Kirova - 5900 m, peak Krasnoy Armii - 5800 m, etc.). The expedition plan was developed to ensure the passage of the traverse of peaks 6088–6742 - "Pobeda", entered for the USSR Championship by the main team, as well as the ascent by the auxiliary group to peak Pobeda via peak Vazha Pshavela, entered for the CS SDSO "Burevestnik" Championship.

The team for the USSR Championship consisted of 7 people (N.D. Cherny could not participate in the expedition due to family circumstances). The auxiliary team consisted of 5 people.

The main team included:

1. Glukhov V.V. - MSMS - captain
2. Bobrov V.I. - CMS - coach
3. Zasetsky V.G. - CMS - participant
4. Petruk V.P. - CMS - participant
5. Kurochkin G.I. - CMS - participant
6. Borodkin V.I. - MS - participant
7. Soustin B.P. - MS - participant.

Auxiliary team:

1. Sazonenko I.S. - CMS - captain
2. Poroshin L.P. - CMS - participant
3. Shpolyansky V.N. - CMS - participant
4. Golovin A.A. - CMS - participant
5. Shindyaykin A.P. - CMS - doctor.

All ascenders had:

• experience of high-altitude ascents (peak Kommunizma, peak Lenin, peak Korzhenevskaya),
• experience of ascents in this area (peak Vostochnaya Pobeda, peak Khan-Tengri, peak Vazha Pshavela),
• year-round training (cross-country running, 40–50 km ski runs, participation in competitions for the "Burevestnik" and Moscow championships).

The expedition plan was as follows: the main team was divided into groups - 3 and 4 people.

• A group of 3 people (Zasetsky, Bobrov and Petruk) together with the auxiliary team landed on the Dikiy glacier, set up a base camp, and then two groups went on a reconnaissance and acclimatization trip to a height of 5900 m under the first rock belt of peak Vazha Pshavela, processing the ascent route to peak Dikiy.
• The 2nd group of the main team (Glukhov, Soustin, Borodkin and Kurochkin) together with the expedition doctor A. Shindyaykin landed by helicopter on the Komsomolets glacier, preparing to transport to Frunze the body of A. Grigoryev, who died during the ascent to peak SAVO in 1971, made a supply drop under the route and tried to reach the saddle to a height of 5300–5400 m.

Then the groups meet in the base camp, rest, and then together with the main and auxiliary teams go to peak Vazha Pshavela and make a supply drop there, necessary for the traverse from peak Vazha Pshavela to the Chon-Toren pass and for the ascent to peak Pobeda and descent, respectively.

On this trip, the readiness of the participants of the main and auxiliary groups to fulfill the plans is checked and the final lineup is made. Then rest, and on August 5-6, the main team is to go on the traverse, and the auxiliary team - a day or two later, to meet on the way back with the traverse group between peak Pobeda and peak Vazha Pshavela.

Such interaction was supposed to ensure safety and quick descent in case of illness of any of the participants on the highest section of the route.

This plan was considered at the "Burevestnik" coaching council and was approved by Honored Master of Sports A.G. Ovchinnikov, with whom numerous consultations were held. On July 16, 1972, most of the expedition was airlifted by helicopter to the Dikiy glacier, where a base camp was set up in a pocket behind the left (orographic) moraine glacier, almost at its confluence with the South Inylchek glacier. At this time, both the glacier and the moraine were covered with a half-meter layer of snow, and compared to 1970 or 1971, it was real winter. The snow was fluffy and loose, like in winter.

On July 16, 17 and 18, they were engaged in transporting goods and setting up the base camp.

On July 19 at 4:00, the advance group was to go up, but from 2:00 in the morning a heavy snowfall started, which continued for almost a day, visibility was no more than 10–15 m, and the group postponed the exit.

On July 20, the weather settled, and a lot of snow slid off the slopes. On July 21 at 4:00, a group consisting of Zasetsky (leader), Petruk, Sazonenko and Poroshin went under the Dikiy pass. There was still a lot of snow on the Dikiy glacier, and the group reached the foot of the pass only after 9 hours of walking, although this journey usually takes 3.5–4 hours.

On July 22 at 4:00, another group consisting of Bobrov (leader), Shpolyansky and Golovin went to the same place, and followed in the footsteps of the first group for 4 hours to reach Zasetsky's group.

In the morning, there was fog and light snow. At 8:30, Zasetsky's group began processing the ascent to the Dikiy pass, while Bobrov's group remained on a rest day at 4600 m. The ascent route to the pass due to the changed snow and ice situation was chosen somewhat to the left compared to 1970, and in 1972 it was safer. The most difficult sections were:

• an ice board for 4 ropes,
• exit to the pass itself - 30 m with a steepness of up to 45–50°.

The other sections are gentle - 25–30° on average, but are covered with a meter or more layer of snow. The weather completely deteriorated by 12:00 and settled only by the next morning. The group reached the overnight stay at the Dikiy pass only by 19:00, having hung 4 ropes and 2 rep cords during the ascent.

On July 23, Zasetsky's group dug a cave together with the Krasnoyarsk climbers, who had ascended here in the morning from the Zvezdochka glacier, and prepared for the reception of supplies. At 12:00, Bobrov's group ascended to the pass. In the afternoon, a supply drop was made by helicopter: two boxes with food for the main and auxiliary teams and a barrel with gasoline.

On July 24, the ascent began at 6:00. The weather was good, and at 8:00, the groups went together - the goal was 5900 m, the first sliding belt. The snow was very deep all the way, waist-deep in places. The first belay was set up every 10 minutes.

By 15:30, they reached the rocks and about a rope's length from them they dug into the slope:

• Set up 2 platforms,
• Put up tents,
• Spent the night to have better acclimatization.

On July 25, at 8:00, Zasetsky's group began to descend, and at 9:00, Bobrov's group descended to the pass to 5200 m in an hour, and in another 1.5 hours to 4600 m, and at 13:30 and 15:00, respectively, returned to the base camp.

From July 21 to 23, a group consisting of Glukhov, Borodkin, Soustin and Kurochkin explored the route along the Komsomolets glacier, received supplies at 4500 m under the start of the route, and delivered part of the cargo to the slope leading to the saddle to a height of about 4800 m. At the bottom, due to bad weather and avalanche danger on the slope (photo 4), they did not dare to ascend.

Thus, as a result of the first acclimatization trip, supplies were made to the Dikiy pass (5200 m) and under the Komsomolets pass (4800 m), but Glukhov's group was in a worse position as they had only a night at 4500 m.

Therefore, it was decided to start the second acclimatization trip earlier. Glukhov's group went to peak Vazha Pshavela a day earlier than the rest of the team to climb as slowly as possible. Doctor Shindyaykin from the auxiliary team also went with them to the Dikiy pass, who was only on the Komsomolets glacier up to 4500 m and did not climb higher as he was involved in transporting Grigoryev's body.

On July 27 at 6:00, Glukhov's group - Borodkin, Soustin, Kurochkin and Shindyaykin - went on the second acclimatization trip and spent the night in a cave on the Dikiy glacier.

On July 28 at 4:00, two groups set out:

• Bobrov, Zasetsky, Petruk and Sazonenko,
• Shpolyansky, Poroshin, Golovin.

The weather was excellent, the snow held well, and by 9:30 and 11:30, respectively, the groups reached the Dikiy pass and stopped for a bivouac in tents.

Glukhov's group with a load of 5 kg each climbed to 5900 m that day and descended to the cave in the evening. The others selected products for the supply drop and prepared for the ascent.

On July 29, at 8:45, two groups - Glukhov, Borodkin, Bobrov, Zasetsky, Kurochkin, Petruk, Soustin and Sazonenko, Poroshin, Shindyaykin, Shpolyansky - with a load set out to 5900 m. The weather was average: snow, fog. Despite the deep snow, they reached 5900 m by 15:00 and decided to pass the first rock belt. At 18:45, they ascended to 6150–6200 m and set up a bivouac above the first rock belt. It snowed in the evening and at night.

On July 30, the weather deteriorated, strong wind, snowstorm. They set out at 9:30 - a lot of snow. The rocks above 6200 m were all snow-covered. Backpacks were heavy (17–18 kg). The ascent along the rocks of the second belt was quite long, although there were belays everywhere.

By 15:30, the team of Bobrov, Zasetsky, Petruk ascended to the big stones, approximately to a height of 6500 m, and it was decided to stop for the night, as the insufficient acclimatization of five participants was felt. In 1.5–2 hours, everyone gathered together.

On July 31, Kurochkin's temperature rose to 38.5 °C. Shindyaykin examined the other participants and found signs of tonsillitis in Poroshin and Zasetsky. It was decided to send them down, as well as Shpolyansky and Shindyaykin, setting out at 9:30. They were at 4600 m by 13:30, and after waiting out the heat (the weather was fine), they set out from 4600 m at 17:30 and were back in the camp in 2.5 hours. During the descent, Kurochkin's condition improved, and on the glacier, he already felt much better.

At 9:30, the remaining 6 people set out for peak Vazha Pshavela. The weather was good. On snowy sections, the snow was deep, the rocks were completely snow-covered - it was necessary to go very carefully. They reached the summit by 17:00. They left a supply drop near the last big stone. They began their descent at 18:00 and were at the overnight stay by 19:15.

On August 1, the weather was fine. They began their descent from 6500 m at 8:00 and were back in the base camp by 15:00 without any special incidents.

The supply drop on peak Vazha Pshavela was made. The preparatory period was over. It was decided to rest for 4 days and then go on the main ascent.

For two days of rest, the weather was good, and then it started to deteriorate: snow, wind. After analyzing the acclimatization trips and a thorough medical examination, the coaching council approved the team for the traverse: Glukhov - leader, Bobrov, Zasetsky, Petruk, Soustin. Kurochkin had not yet recovered from his illness, and Borodkin was in a hurry to get home, he claimed he had to start work by August 21.

A thorough selection of equipment and products was made, and the following was taken for the exit:

• Elongated and lightweight down jackets (1 kg) - special order - 5 pcs.
• Sleeping bags made of nylon fabric, lightweight (1 kg) - special order - 5 pcs.
• Lightweight nylon backpacks (0.45 kg) - special order - 5 pcs.

Description of the ascent.

On August 6, 1972, at 15:30, the group with a two-day supply of food left the base camp, reached the Komsomolets glacier by 19:00, and set up for an overnight stay on the glacier at 19:45 (photo 2).

On August 7, the weather began to deteriorate from morning: sleet, fog. By 13:00, they reached the left cirque of the Komsomolets glacier to the supply drop at the beginning of the route, and by 14:00, they set up a tent (altitude 4500 m), and in the evening, heavy snow began to fall.

On August 8, it snowed all night and all day. Nothing is visible from the tent except the tent fabric. By around 9:00 in the evening, the snow subsided a bit. More than 1 m of snow fell. The tent had to be dug out three times. The altitude is quite low, and the snow is wet, it flows. It is necessary to poke holes in the half with a knife from two sides and engage in irrigation works. All the time, the roar of avalanches is heard.

On August 9, snow again, nothing is visible, roar all around. "Our" slope is not visible, but it can be heard. Irrigation works in the tent continue. Only by 19:00, it started to clear up a bit and get colder. By 20:00, everything was stretched out. Finally, the stars are visible.

On August 10, the night was clear and cold. The day turned out to be excellent. As it later became clear - the first and last. The whole day was spent drying out and observing the avalanche activity of our slope. A lot of snow came down from it during the day, and avalanches rumbled all around. An avalanche about 300 m wide came down from the opposite (scree before the snowfall) slope. The sight was indescribable. The place for the overnight stay was chosen successfully: a kind of dome formed on the glacier, on which the tent was set up. Therefore, we were out of reach of avalanches, although sometimes we were hit with snow dust.

The route to the saddle was finally planned by the evening, but any glance at the slope caused thoughts "about the meaning of life" (photo 4).

On August 11, they set out early at 5:30. It's cold. Deep, fluffy, winter snow, the sky in the west is starting to cloud over. The first belay is set up every 10 minutes. The snow is waist-deep in places, and in places where it has slid off, there is firn and ice. Belay is through an ice axe, on ice - hook belay. The average steepness of the slope is 35–40°. In places, the steepness is 20–50°. After 2 hours and 30 minutes, they reached the supply drop on the slope. They took gasoline and some food, as most of it had to be carried from the overnight stay at 4500 m. Higher up, the character of the slope is the same. The most unpleasant section is like a "chicken breast", 3–3.5 ropes, with a steepness of 45–50°, with snow waist-deep. Having ascended to the ledge in 2 hours and 30 minutes, everyone breathed a sigh of relief. Further ascent is under a wide ice ledge or "big barrier" (photo 7): snow up to 0.5 m, firn and ice in places, belay through an ice axe. Under the ledge (ice wall 12–15 m high, traverse to the right, 2–2.5 ropes along an ice-firn slope, with a steepness of 55–60°, with step cutting and hook belay (8 hooks). Then, along a ledge between the ice wall and the crack, we exit to the upper snow-firn fields.

The steepness of the snow is 30–35°, in places the depth of snow is up to 1 m. At 16:30, they ascended to the saddle. The weather started to deteriorate from 11:00 and completely deteriorated by 15:00. Snow, fog, visibility 50–100 m.

On August 12, the weather was bad in the morning, snowing, visibility was sometimes zero, then it was necessary to stop and wait until it cleared up a bit, but it was possible to go along the ridge.

They set out at 9:30. At first, a gentle ridge to the first rocks, snow knee-deep. Further steep rocks 45–50°, snow-covered (40 m, 3 hooks). Then a snowy ridge with cornices, steepness up to 30 m. Further about 4 ropes. Snow 10–15 cm, on ice - hook belay (2 ice hooks). Further a steep snowy ridge (photo 9), and then rocky steps, steepness up to 60° (belay on ledges and hooks): steps 20, 40 m. In one, the most difficult place, after passing about 10 m along the top of the ridge - a wall 3 m, slightly overhanging, with no footholds. Overcame only by standing on each other.

Further 6 ropes of snowy ridge with rocky islands, steepness up to 30°. Goes simultaneously.

At 18:00, they stopped for an overnight stay on a slope of 30–35°, under a big stone there was a small pocket, spent 1.5 hours making a platform. The weather improved a bit towards the evening.

On August 13, the weather was better in the morning, but strong wind, snowstorm. Set out at 9:15. At first a steep snowy slope up to 35° with deep snow up to 50 cm - 3 ropes, then firn, 2 ropes at the top with ice, steepness 35–40° (belay through an ice axe - at the top 2 ice hooks). Then a rope, exit from ice to rocks 10 m, and along rocks 30 m steeply (40–45°, 5 hooks). Came out onto the ridge.

The rocky ridge is of medium difficulty, steepness up to 35°, leads to a snowy plateau at a height of 5800–5850 m. The plateau is about 700–800 m long and up to 200 m wide, развернуто under 60–90° to the axis of the Kokshal-Tau ridge in a SW direction. Above the plateau rises a wall of peak SAVO with a steepness of 45–50° (photo 13). The further ascent route was chosen in the right part of the wall with an exit to the SW ridge on the Chinese side about 200 m higher than the plateau. This was, perhaps, the most acceptable ascent route in the given conditions. To the left, the ascent is higher, with many icy rocks. To the right, the exit is shorter, but a sharp ridge with failures is visible. The exit to the saddle between peak SAVO and peak Dybenko is shorter, but more dangerous - cornices hang.

A steep snow-ice couloir up to 55–60° in the upper part, descending to the Komsomolets glacier. (The plateau ends 50–60 m before it), and a traverse of the "snowy slope" from the plateau to the couloir with a steepness of up to 45°. All this is objectively dangerous, especially with such an amount of snow. From the plateau, first along snow and firn, with a steepness of 20 to 40°, 100–120 m straight up, then 20–25 m up along ice 10–15 cm thick, lying on rocks with small ledges - 2 hooks on rocky ledges. Then a traverse of 40 m of an icy slope 40–45° with step cutting (2 hooks to exit) onto rocks under a big stone. The others ascend on the rope. The rope is fixed to a ledge (photo 15). Then 2 ropes along snow-covered rocks of medium difficulty and 2.5–3 ropes along deep snow up to 1 m, with a steepness of 40°, in the upper part up to 45° (belay on rocky ledges), we exit onto the SW ridge. A snowy squall hits, and snow falls in thick, wet flakes, although it's already 6000 m. Then 250–300 m along a wide, snow-covered rocky ridge, with a steepness of 20–30°, we reach peak SAVO. By 17:30, they reached the cairn. The weather during the ascent from the plateau to the summit was not good: snow, fog, visibility - 100 m. Visibility improved towards the evening, but all the peaks were closed. The summit is a snowy dome (photo 16). Set up a tent next to the cairn. Very strong gusty wind.

On August 14, the weather was bad in the morning - fog, snow. Visibility was zero. They were ready to set out at 9:00, and for about 20 minutes, they decided where to go. Then they went down, sticking to the left ridge.

In conditions of poor visibility (10–15 m), they descended to the saddle between peak SAVO and peak Dybenko (6088 m). The height difference is about 250 m. The ridge is simple, with deep snow in places. Especially difficult on the saddle - 10–20 steps, and the first one has to change, we dig a trench almost of the full profile.

Finally, the slope of peak Dybenko. Here is firn, and it is necessary to put on crampons. The weather is improving, we take off the ridge SAVO. The pre-summit cornice is especially beautiful (photo 17). The highest point is also a cornice. We did not find the notes of the first ascenders, and there is nowhere to build a cairn - all drifts.

They began their descent along a wide ridge with big cornices - the main task: not to go out with the whole group on the cornice. The descent - 200–250 m - was quick.

Further - a sharp snowy ridge with huge cornices up to 15–20 m - to the northern slope. We go mainly along the southern side. Visibility is bad, there is nowhere to stand, the ridge is very narrow, the slope steeply descends to the south. It is necessary to wait, move very slowly and carefully.

By 18:00, they reached the slope along the ridge, leading to the first belt of rocks of the unconquered peak (6537 m). The ridge here allowed, after an hour of work, to dig out a platform for a tent, having chopped off the cornice (photo 0).

The weather is bad, it's snowing. The height is very rough - 6100–6200 m, it's hard to determine more precisely: nothing is visible around.

On August 15, they set out at 9:20. The weather is average, visibility is bad, snowing, snowing. The ridge is steep 35–40° (photo 19), but it became wider and the cornices are smaller. At 12:50, they reached the shoulder of peak 6537 m (height approximately about 6500 m). Here, from the south, a ridge approaches. At the junction of this southern and our western ridges, there is a small rocky outcrop, on which they built a cairn (photo 21). Further is a snowy ridge with very big cornices. By right of first ascenders, they decided to name the peak in honor of the deceased cosmonauts - peak "Pamyati ekipazha Soyuz-10". Further, they move along a sharp snowy ridge with cornices. The snow is deep, knee-deep. In places, waist-deep. Visibility is bad. At 15:20, they were forced to stop - visibility is zero. They chopped down the ridge, the platform turned out to be good, but it's dangerous to exit the tent, they do this only with belay.

On August 16, it snowed at night. They got up early at 4:00. It's decided to go earlier, but visibility is zero in the morning. They sit in the tent, not undressed. They wait until 13:00 - no improvement. They took down the tent - let's go. But nothing is visible literally 5 m away, and they saw a complex corniced ridge at night.

They leveled the platform and set up the tent again. Decided to wait. It cleared up towards the evening. It turned out they had passed 1 rope (photo 22).

On August 17, ascent at 5:30, exit only at 7:40. It's cold, strong wind. At first a complex, narrow corniced ridge, deep snow. Further, the ridge became wider and descends to the saddle under peak Neru (6740 m) and ends with an amazing platform with a panorama (see photo 27).

For the first time, we see almost the entire traverse: peaks Neru, Vazha Pshavela, and finally, the giant Pobeda. Now everything is clear. Such a picture takes one's breath away, we sit, take pictures and enjoy the sun.

From the saddle to the ridge Neru leads a long, even snow-firn slope, steepness 35–40°. The snow is quite dense, holds crampons well. But at 12:00, when they reached the ridge, the weather deteriorated again, snow, wind, fog. Three hours along a narrow ridge, steepness 20–25°, in places 30°, deep snow. By 15:00, they approached the ascent of the ridge leading to the summit of peak Neru, but again no visibility - 15 m at most, and the main thing - the snow is wet and sticky. Decided to stop. Before the ascent, a depression, a flat platform, almost no work except for trampling snow, height approximately 6650 m.

On August 18, exit at 8:00. At first a ridge to Neru, steepness 40–45°, then traverse of the slope. In some places, pure ice, steepness 30–35°. Some sections are on the front teeth of crampons with hook belay. Strong wind, but visibility is decent. On the summit, it was about 11:00. Removed the note of the first ascenders of Ivanov's group in 1970. Further descent to the ridge about 100 m and then up along the ridge to peak Vazha Pshavela. At first a simple wide ridge, steepness 15–20°. Further, its steepness increases to 20–30°, in places ascents 30–35°.

They find a rather amusing section: cornices both to the left and to the right of the course, have to climb over to both the southern and northern sides, see the Dikiy glacier and our camp in the gaps of the clouds. In the second half of the day, they see the Krasnoyarsk climbers descending from Pobeda. But soon everything disappears in the clouds and snow.

Before the last ascent to the summit, they go to the left along the course to the northern side to a big stone, where the supply drop is left and a cairn is built. By 20:00, they were at the supply drop site, but everything had changed a lot during this time:

• Everything is snowed in - both the supply drop and the stones on which the cairn was built.
• Instead of a depression for a tent under a big stone - a steep snowdrift.

In the evening, they failed to dig out the supply drop. At night - strong wind, snowfall. The tent had to be dug out.

In the evening, an unexpected strong cough from Bobrov, he can't catch his breath for a long time. He takes cough medicine, heart medication as a precaution. The pulse is rapid.

On August 19, it's snowing in the morning. Everything that was dug out was leveled and covered with snow again. Bobrov's condition has not improved: weakness and cough. Breathing and pulse are normal, but there are rales in the upper part of the lungs. At 19:00, they had radio contact with the camp, and after consulting with the doctor, they decided not to take risks. Obvious bronchitis in Bobrov in such harsh and difficult conditions can easily turn into pneumonia, and there are only 5 people, and we won't be able to transport him if Bobrov becomes incapacitated. It was hard to make such a decision, but the experienced doctor Shindyaykin A.P. and numerous cases of illnesses in other groups at such an altitude made them turn back. Pobeda won't run away from us - there will be a desire, and there will be opportunities.

A group with a doctor will come out to meet us from the camp to meet us on Dikiy at 4600 m.

By 20:00, the group descended to 5200 m. The night passed calmly.

On August 20, Bobrov's condition is better in the morning. The weather is cloudy, fog. The trio set out at 7:00 and was at the tent on 4600 m by 9:00, where they were met by a group - Shindyaykin, Sazonenko, Golovin. Shindyaykin examined the patient. Diagnosed acute bronchitis and allowed to move to the camp. After a short rest, the trio and doctor Shindyaykin went to the camp. In 3 hours, at 12:00, they were in the camp, and at 14:00, the helicopter delivered the sick Bobrov to Maykop.

In the conclusions about the ascent and its tactics, it should be noted:

• The equipment available to the team fully meets all requirements in terms of type, strength, convenience and quality.
• None of the participants got frostbite, although they had to stand on belay for 2–3 hours at a height above 6000 m in strong wind and frost.

2. The passage of the route took more time than planned according to the schedule, although the reserve time limit was not exhausted. But this can be explained by extremely unfavorable weather conditions, when out of 13 days that the group was on the route, 12 days were partially or completely bad weather, and during this period, about 2 m of snow fell.
3. It should be noted the good communication that the group had while on the route. It was provided with the help of VHF radios (Japanese-made), which allowed them to receive good advice from the expedition doctor and moral support from their comrades down below in time.
4. As it turned out, more natural products are good on a long traverse (kooreika, speck, sausage, condensed milk, dry milk, etc.). Sublimated and processed products aimed at reducing their weight are not good, as they lose all their taste qualities (dried-boiled meat, nemytkan, dry soups, various porridges). Honey and black crackers were especially well received.
5. Under more favorable conditions and with a larger group (at least 8 people), it is possible to pass the previously planned route: peak SAVO - peak Neru - peak Pobeda. Naturally, it is necessary to make a supply drop on peak Vaz