Video guide to climbing **Pobeda Peak** via the classic 5B route with **Dikiy Pass** by experienced mountaineer Dima Pavlenko.
Video guide to the classic route (5B, via Diky Pass) on Pobeda by Dima Pavlenko.
Video guide to climbing Khan-Tengri via the classic 5A route by experienced alpinist Dima Pavlenko.
Video guide to the classic route to Khan-Tengri (5A) by Dima Pavlenko.
First ascent of Peak Pobeda 7439m via the right bastion of the ice balcony on the north face, 6B cat. diff.
406 Ascent Passport Region — Central Tien Shan, № 7.5. Peak — Pobeda 7439 m, via the right bastion of the ice balcony on the north face. Proposed route — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. Route characteristics — combined. Route description: elevation gain — 2639 m, wall section elevation gain — 1850 m, route length — 4000 m,
A 2009 climbing report on the ascent of Pobeda Peak via the North-Eastern Counterfort by the St. Petersburg FACL team, rated as a category 6A climb.
XVIII EAAC (CIS) Championship in Alpinism, High-Altitude Technical Class 2009 Description of the ascent to Peak Pobeda Main (7439 m) via the Northeast Counterfort, 6A category. The route was climbed by a team from FASIL St. Petersburg. Team captain: Viktor Aleksandrovich Koval. Team coach: Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov. Ascent Passport Central Tian Shan, Kokshaal-Too range, South Inylchek, section No. 7.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks. Name of the peak: Pobeda Main (7439), name of the route: via the Northeast Counterfort (V.Zhuravlev, 1990). Category of complexity: 6A. Nature of the route: combined. Height difference on the route: 2635 m (by altimeter).
Ascent of Pobeda Main Peak (7439 m) via the North-Eastern Counterfort in 1990, category III, first ascent.
Pobeda Main 7439 m. Ascent via the NE buttress. Central Tian-Shan. PASS Category of altitude ascents. Central Tian-Shan, Zvezdochka glacier. Peak Pobeda Main via NE buttress. First ascent, proposed category 5B. Elevation gain — 2639 m, route length — 3870 m. Length of 6A category sections — 290 m. Average steepness of the route — 44°. Average steepness of 6A category sections: 50° (5192–5264); 70° (6026–6066); 50°, 65° (6144–6240); 60° (6608–6648); 75° (6816–6834). Pitons left on the route (not removed) — none. Insurance points organized on the route:
Description of the ascent route to Khan Tengri peak via the western ridge from the Semenovsky glacier, category 5A complexity.
Ascent Passport Class of high-altitude technical ascents. Region 7.9, Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. Khan-Tengri peak via the W ridge from Semenovsky glacier (variant of M. Pogrebetsky's route-31 via the SW slope). 5A category of route complexity, combined. Height difference 1400 m, average steepness of the ridge 40°, route length 3000 m. Sections of 1st category of difficulty – 1100 m, 2nd category – 350 m, 3rd category – 1300 m, 4th category – 200 m, 5th category – 50 m. Used previously fixed ropes – 700 m, total 1200 m of ropes on the route from 6100 m to 6850 m. Climbing hours — 9, days — 2. Overnight stay in a snow cave under the col between Chapayev peak and Khan-Tengri peak, 5850 m. Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich — CMS, Shanavazov Shanavaz Eldarovich — CMS
Description of a 6A category complexity route to the summit of Pobeda (7439 m) in the Central Tian Shan via Dykiy Pass and the West Ridge.
Passport Altitude class. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge. Pobeda (Main) via Dikiy Pass over Pobeda (3) by 3rd category. 6A category of complexity. Elevation difference: 3039 m, distance — 10090 m. The average steepness of the main part of the route (Western ridge from Dikiy Pass to 6700 m) – 44° (5230 m – 6700 m), the whole route – 19° (4400 m – 7439 m). Previously hammered-in pitons: 15 rock, 8 ice, 1 snow (not removed). Hammered-in pitons: rock – 0, ice – 0, snow – 0. Team's walking hours: 26 hours, 5 days.
Report on the ascent of Pik Pobedy (7439 m) via the North Ridge from Diky Pass, category 5B, made by Belarusian climbers in 2019.
Belarusian Federation of Alpinism Report on the ascent to the summit of Peak Pobeda 7439, Zap. Pobeda, Main, via the north edge from Dikiy Pass, 5B, by D. Medzmariashvili 2019 Route Passport Mountain region: Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan. Name of the summit: Peak Pobeda (7439 m). Category of difficulty: 5B high-altitude. Nature of the route: snow-rock-ice. Route: Zvezdochka glacier, Dikiy Pass, Peak Pobeda West along the northern edge, Peak Pobeda Main, 7439 m, descent via the ascent route;
Report on the first ascent of the north face of the East Summit of Peak Pobeda (7439 m) by a team from the Armed Forces of the USSR in 1984, grade 6 difficulty.
XXXV USSR Alpine Championship 1984. High-altitude Class REPORT on the ascent of Peak Pobeda (7439 m) via the north face of the eastern peak (first ascent) by the team of the USSR Armed Forces Team leader: V.N. Khrishtatyy, coach: E.T. Ilyinsky, Honored Master of Sports, Honored Coach of the USSR Addresses and phone numbers: Team leader - Valery Nikolayevich Khrishtatyy Address: 480021, Alma-Ata, Kurganazy St., 15, apt. 8 Phone: 61-27-25, p. 63-39-62 Team coach - Ervand Tikhonovich Ilyinsky Address: 480012, Alma-Ata, Seyfullin St., 537, apt. 4
Ascent of Khan Tengri peak via the South-West slope, category 5B, made by a team from Severodvinsk in 1998.
Ascent Passport Ascent category: high-altitude and technical. Ascent region: Central Tian Shan, South Inylchek. Ascent route: Khan-Tengri peak via the Southwest slope, 4. M. Pogrebetsky 1931. Category of difficulty: 5B Route characteristics: elevation gain: 2985 (by altimeter), ascent length: –9 km, descent length: –9.4 km, section lengths: 5th category of difficulty – 120 m,