M21. Gvandra East — Main (combined route, 3A cat. of diff., p/p L. Chasovnikovs, 1937) See routes M14, M16, M18–M20.

• when descending from the Eastern peak via route M16, it should be taken into account that the description is made in the opposite direction, and all gendarmes will be overcome not on ascent, but on descent;
• in bad weather or in fog, descending from the Main peak, one can lose orientation and go to the right earlier from the upper plateau of Gvand — dry. There is a danger of going to very steep slopes with large crevices and, most importantly, to the southern slopes of the ridge from Gvandra Main. These slopes, going in the direction of the False Myrdy pass, end in a hanging icefall. To

в. Бжедух, 4270 m, via North ridge, lс, 3Б cat. sl., L. Distel's route, R0. From Джантуган ASB we ascend to overnight stays below the "Red rocks". From the overnight stays we exit via the Кашка — Таш glacier in the direction of the big couloir of the north ridge of в. Бжедух. We ascend via snow in the couloir to the upper part of the rocky island. Traversing the destroyed rocks upwards to the right, we exit to the boundary of rocks and snow. In the upper part of the ridge we circumvent small rocky walls with a traverse to the left — upwards to the ridge (from overnight stays 90–120 min). On the ridge we move along the scree towards в. Бжедух. Having passed the wide part of the ridge along the screes to the rocky section rising towards the summit, we traverse 100–120 m. The descent from the ridge down to the Бжедух glacier is not difficult (from the start of the ridge to the descent to the glacier — 60–75 min). About an hour is needed to walk along the glacier to the snowy ridge, bypassing the gendarmes on the right. Further, the path goes along a snowy-icy ascent:

• At the end — an icy ascent.
• Move on front points with insurance via ice screws.
• In the upper part, icy overhangs loom.
• Pass the entire snowy ridge to the left of these overhangs (4–5 hours).

Description of the First Ascent to the summit of Beliy Pik from the Southeast (approx. Category III difficulty) (Alaarchinsky spur of Kyrgyz Ala-Too)

The first ascent was made on July 21, 1968, by two groups of Leningrad climbers from the base camp at the confluence of the Alamedin and Jyndy-su rivers. Group Composition: Kheysin D.E. (leader), MS Koltsov A.I. (leader), Naryshkin B. 1st sports category, Mikheev L.N. 1st sports category, Fedorenko Yu. 1st sports category, Yakovlev Yu.G. 1st sports category, Yakovlev Yu.V. 1st sports category.

Brief Geographical Description and General Route Characteristics

The summit of Beliy Pik is located east of Lermontov Peak on the same spur, which bounds the Dzhindy-su valley to the south. The ridges extending from the summit to the east and southeast descend towards the Alamedin valley and bound the Kок-zoo valley and glacier (name taken from Marechek's map). The route is snow and ice with short rock sections. The height of Beliy Pik is 4650 m.

Route Description

From the base camp, follow the right (here and further along the route) bank of the Alamedin River (trail) up to the first lateral valley on the right (hanging valley) (40 min). Turn right and ascend steeply up the scree, and after the inflection, continue up the moraines to the gentle tongue of the Kok-zoo glacier, where the river is hidden by moraines. Cross the center of the open glacier to a narrow, steep icefall between rocky spurs (4 hours); overnight stay on the right moraine.

Photo of the wall on the left. Taken on February 17, 1988 at 18:00. "Triplet" lens, Φ = 40 mm, distance 2 km, height 4300 m.

PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — high-altitude
2. Climbing area — central Tian Shan, Kokshaltoo ridge
3. Peak Pobeda Main (7439 m) via col 6918
4. Category of difficulty: 5B (6A)
5. Route description: height difference — 3239 m, average steepness — 22°, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 300 m, including:
   • 6 category of difficulty — 50 m
6. Number of pitons: rock, ice, chocks II, II, 0

TO THE QUALIFICATION COMMISSION OF THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF RUSSIA

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Kosmos via the center of the North wall, presumably category 6B, by the team of the St. Petersburg Alpine Federation from September 26, 2021, to October 2, 2021.

I. Ascent Passport

I. Altitude class 2. Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge 3. Khan Tengri peak via the Southwest slope 4. Route difficulty category — 5B 5. Elevation gain: 2695 m, length 3830 m Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 340 m. Average steepness of the route — 42°. 6. Pitons driven: rock 9+9*, chocks 16, ice screws 8+4*

• use of previously driven pitons

7. Team's travel time: 13.5 hours, days — 2

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Tengri Tag ridge, South Inylchek glacier, number according to the 1999 classification table —.
2. Peak name: Khan Tengri (6995 m), route name: via NW edge from Chapayev peak shoulder (I. Grebenshchikov).
3. Complexity category: 5A category.
4. Route type — combined
5. Route elevation gain: 2800 m (by altimeter); route length — 8260 m; sections of 5th category — 1500 m; 6th category —.

PHOTO #1: General view of Peak ZATO (taken on July 20, 2007 from the slopes of Peak B.Ruchyev, alt. 4300 m)

Passport

5.1.4. Kichik-Alay ridge, Suichikty valley

Peak ZATO 4590 m, north to east ridge, first ascent

Proposed: category 3A. Route type: combined (Note: "ZATO" stands for a closed administrative-territorial formation of the Ministry of Atomic Energy) Height difference according to the group's altimeter — 590 m, including:

• north slope — 380 m
• east ridge — 210 m Route length — 1400 m (estimated), including: category III difficulty — about 570 m at 30° and above. Average steepness of the entire route — 34°, including:

At the end, the couloir narrows and you need to exit slightly to the right of the couloir, along the walls, since the upper part has overhanging cornices. The walls are short - 2-3 m - and usually end in shelves, convenient for practicing. The exit to the pass is significantly higher than the lower point and to the left of it, the ascent takes 4 hours 30 minutes. At the exit to the ridge, a 1st control point is set up. The ridge drops off to the east with steep rocky-ice slopes, featuring large cornices. The first part of the ridge, 300 m long and with a slope of 50–60°, is icy. Upwards, it is necessary to go along the icy slope to the right of the ridge, with piton belay. The slope is partially covered with a thin layer of snow, which makes the progress slightly easier. During the passage, 10 ice screws were hammered in. The ascent took 2 hours 30 minutes. The icy slope ends in a snow-ice depression, from which a talus slope leads to the shoulder of the summit.