68

To the classification commission of the USSR Alpinism Federation

The route was included in the table according to a note made by V. Tselovakhin's group (1968), which passed the route to the ridge via Svido. (They named it via the S wall). The commission erroneously believed that both groups had passed the same route (this route — via the NW wall). The commission did not have S. Morozov's report.

• V. Shulepin
• April 20, 1984

Fann Mountains

Description of the first ascent: Skalnaya Stena peak – 5112 m, combined route via the north-west wall, 5B category of complexity. Completed on August 8–12, 1967, by a group organized by the sports club "GRANIT". Ascent leader — Master of Sports MOROZOV S.A.

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION № 292 dated October 3, 1968 5A+Б It is given The route has not been entered, apparently, into the classification table of routes, as it was mistakenly believed that this same route was first passed by a group led by S. Morozov, who is listed in the table. V. Yumikevich April 26, 1984

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. ASCENT CLASS — technical.
2. ASCENT REGION — Pamir-Alay.
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Skalnaya Stena, 5112, via the left part of the center of the North face.
4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference — 810 m, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 220 m, «––» — 5th cat. diff. — 430 m,

PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Pamir-Alai. Fann Mountains. Imat valley
3. "Stupenka" peak
4. Proposed 2B cat. first ascent
5. Height difference 250 m. Length of sections 3 cat. - 45 m 2 cat. - 250 m
6. 4 pitons driven, 10 chocks placed.
7. Duration - 2.5 hours
8. Team: Baykovsky Yu. V. MS

I. Rock Class

2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains. Imat Valley.
3. "Stupenka" Peak.
4. Proposed category 2B difficulty level. First ascent.
5. Height difference 250 m. Length of sections with category 3 difficulty – 35 m, category 2 difficulty – 250 m.
6. 5 pitons hammered, 8 chocks placed.
7. Climbing time – 2.5 hours.
8. Team members: Baykovsky Yuri Viktorovich MS
   • Gupalov Andrey II

First Ascent of Hazor-Mech Peak via the Northeast Face, Category 3A Difficulty

MOSCOW — 1963 Hazor-Mech peak (View from the Shadon River valley) Map of the Fann Mountains area

Description of the Climbing Area

In the western part of the Zeravshan Range, between the Dan-Darya and Kshut-Darya river basins, lies a relatively isolated massif known as the Fann Mountains. The peaks of this mountain node reach heights of 5500 m (Chimtarga — 5487 m, Big Ganiza — 5415 m, Dukdon — 5208 m, Zengia — 5105 m, etc.) — a total of up to 10 peaks exceeding 5000 m. The Fann Mountains are situated between the Zeravshan and Gissar Ranges. Significant glaciation in this area is primarily found on the northern slopes. South of Big Ganiza peak, in the upper reaches of the Iskander-Darya River, at an altitude of 2238 m, lies the large and very beautiful Lake Iskander-Kul, which is a dammed lake. This area remains understudied, and many peaks await their first ascents.

Report

on the first ascent of the group from the Magnitogorsk Alpine Club to the summit 4292 m (“Peak of the Magnitogorsk Alpine Club”) via the southwest slope and west ridge Leader of the first ascent in 2015: Sergey Soldyatov, e-mail: sswmgn@ya.ru, phone: 8-912-806-00-54 Coach: Sergey Soldyatov, e-mail: sswmgn@ya.ru, phone: 8-912-806-00-54

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range.
2. Summit: 4292 m (Proposed name “Peak of the Magnitogorsk Alpine Club”). Location: (39°13′30.3″ N 68°45′54.6″ E).
3. Route: via the southwest slope and west ridge.
4. Category: 3A, first ascent.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge, Rog valley — 5.3.3.
2. Peak MSU, 5430 m, via E edge of N wall and NE ridge (via shoulder 4831)
3. Category 4B, first ascent
4. Route type — snow and ice
5. Route height difference 1250 m (by GPS) Route length 2350 m. Length of sections 5 — 10 m, 6 — 0 m. Average slope: main part of the route — 52°, entire route — 37°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total 2; including bolted 0. Used on the route: rock pitons 3, chocks 2, ice screws 68. Used pitons: bolted stationary 0, including ITO 0, bolted removable 0, including ITO 0.
7. Team's travel hours: 44 h, 5 days.

Photo 1. Panorama of the Tutek massif from the Samjon river valley Photo 2. MSU peak from the start of the route Photo 3. Overcoming the bergschrund (section 4230–4240) Photo 5. The same (view back) Photo 4. Traversing the snow-ice slope (section 4240–4340)

I

Climbing Passport

1. Type of ascent — first ascent
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Ridge
3. Peak — Tutek-peak (5435 m) via SE bastion of the wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B (first ascent)
5. Height difference — 2200 m including:

• Bastion — 1480 m
• Length — 5557 m