Central Sports Council, Malachite Sports Club

Psalmiro - Alay. Fann Mountains

Sugar Head 4971 m. Via North-East Ridge

5A category of complexity Team of Malachite Sports Club on a group voucher to Varzob Alpine Camp. Team captain - Yushkevich Vladimir Ivanovich - 1st sports category Team members:

• Kolesnikov Alexander Alekseevich - 2nd sports category
• Sergeev Yuri Olegovich - 2nd sports category
• Stepanenko Mikhail Mikhailovich - 2nd sports category

Republican Climbing Club

Council of the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations

Kazakh SSR

Report

On the ascent of Peak Sugar Head (4971 m) via the northeast edge (Fann Mountains, Pamir-Alay) (First ascent) Alma-Ata 1966 

Photo #1

NORTHEAST EDGE OF PEAK

Ascent Description of Sugar Loaf Peak via the Central Part of the East Face

Approximately 5–6 category of difficulty. The route was traversed by a group of participants from the LETI alpinade named after V.I. Ulyanov (Lenin). FAN MOUNTAINS, Leningrad, 1974 Peak Sugar Loaf (4971 m) from the east.

2. Brief Geographical Description of the Area and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Sugar Loaf peak (4971 m above sea level) is located in the Zeravshan ridge (Fan Mountains). The section of the ridge where the peak is situated serves as a watershed for the basins of the following rivers:

• Akhbasoi (to the east)

Ascent Passport

I. Technical Climbing Category. 2. Area 5.3. Zeravshan Range. 3. Peak Sakharnaya Golova (4971 m), via the right buttress of the North face. 4. 5-6 difficulty category. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 970 m average steepness — 65°, section lengths: I difficulty level — 120 m, II difficulty level — 40 m, III difficulty level — 200 m, IV difficulty level — 430 m, V-VI difficulty level — 465 m 6. Pitons driven: for belaying — rock: 71, ice: 16, chocks: 14; for creating artificial anchors — rock: 3. 7. Total climbing hours — 24. 8. Two bivouacs on the route on platforms without a tent.

ASCENT DOCUMENT 60a

1. Climbing type — rock.
2. Climbing area, ridge — Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Sakharnaya Golova, 4971 m, via the "table" (center of the north face).
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1000 m, b) length of 5B category sections — 675 m ("pillar"). c) average steepness: "pillar" — 75°, route — 65°.
6. Pitons hammered: a) rock — 148, b) ice — 28, c) bolted — none.
7. Number of climbing hours — 31 h.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — 2 (1 — lying, 2 — semi-reclining).

1. Sports organization: Sports club of Moscow Aviation Institute
2. Ascent class: Technical
3. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains
4. Ascent route: Peak Sakharnaya Golova (4971 m) via the "pillar" (center of the north face)
5. Ascent characteristics: a) height difference 990 m (1095 and 65°); b) average steepness: 1) "pillar" — 75°, 2) route — 65°; c) length of the "pillar" — 675 m
6. Pitons driven: a) rock — 132 pcs., b) ice — 35 pcs., c) expansion bolts — none
7. Number of climbing hours: 42 hours

61

DESCRIPTION

Ascent to the peak Selegrad, cat. III first ascent via the South-West ridge Peak Selegrad. Start of the ascent to the South-West ridge. --- previously traversed route, cat. III

Ascent Log

I. Ascent classification: technical 2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains 3. Peak: Skalnaya Wall (4800 m), route via the Eastern ridge 4. Difficulty category: 4B 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — about 1400 m. Average slope — about 30°. Section lengths: 2nd difficulty category ≈ 1100 m, 3rd difficulty category ≈ 800 m, 4th difficulty category ≈ 550 m. 6. Pitons hammered for safety: rock — 33 (out of which for creating artificial footholds — 0), chocks — 4

Report

on the first traverse of the peak Skalnaya Stena from west to east with an exit to the ridge along the counterfort of the southern wall from the Dvoynoy pass, category 5A (approximately) in the account of the Volga Region mountaineering championship. August 1-2, 1968, Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay.

I. Characteristics of the Area

Between the Gissar and Zeravshan ridges of the Pamir-Alay rises a cluster of short but high ridges - the Fan Mountains. The main ridge of the Fan range stretches from west to east in a continuous arc, convex to the south. It is intersected by two indistinctly expressed meridional ridges:

• the western one - with the Laudan pass (in the north) and the Dukdan pass (in the south);
• the eastern one - from the Pasrud River (in the north) to Lake Iskanderkul. At the intersections of these ridges are the highest peaks of the range - Chimtarga (5487 m) - the main peak of the area, located in the western node, and Big Ganiza (5415 m) - in the eastern node. The main ridges of the Fan range are composed of metamorphosed limestones, lying in thick strata. The weathered rocks of the peaks are very brittle. Rockfalls are a constant phenomenon in the Fan Mountains. The forms of rock weathering often have a superficial, pockmarked character. Such rock sections are very convenient to pass in rubber boots.

Report

The teams of climbers from the Kuibyshev Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on the "Skalnaya стена" peak via the southern wall from the "Khoroshevsky" pass, category 4B-5A (approximately). July 30 - August 1, 1968, Fann Mountains. Protocol No. 293 dated 10.XII.68. Category 4B. The group is credited with a first ascent. Tolyatti

Route map