Mt. Maria, 5B, via North-Eastern Ridge (A. Vakhmenin's route, 78)

Ascent Passport

Ascent category — technical. Ascent area — Fann Mountains, Zarafshan Range. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Maria, 4970 m, via north-eastern ridge, 5B category of complexity, 3rd ascent of the route. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 1460 m
• Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 1425 m
• Average steepness of the route — 60°
• Average steepness of the most complex sections — 80–90° Pitons driven: | Pitons driven | For belaying | ITO |

IX Climbing Record

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Fann Mountains range
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — p. Maria 4970 m via the left part of the northeast wall
4. Proposed difficulty category 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1210 m, total 1870 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 945 m Average steepness 78°
6. Number of driven pitons: for rock insurance — 252, ice — 12, bolted — 1; for creating and organizing rock — 24, ice — 12, bolted —
7. Number of travel hours — 57.5 hours
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — three bivouacs on the wall; of these: one semi-reclined, two — sitting

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peaks MARIIA (4970 m), MIRALI (5120 m), PROMEZHUTOCHNAYA (4810 m), ADAMTASH (4700 m), traverse with ascent to peak MARIIA via NW buttress, 2nd passage of the route.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Total elevation gain — about 2600 m. Elevation gain on peak Mariya via NW buttress — 1250 m, including 700 m of wall. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 500 m. Average steepness of the entire route — 45°.

5.3.73 78

USSR Championship in Traverse Class

Report

on the traverse of Maria Peak (4970 m) — Mirali (5180 m) — Chimtarga (5487 m) — Energiya (5105 m) with ascent to Maria Peak via the northwest wall by the team from the Belarus Republican Committee for Physical Culture and Sports

Route Description

July 21–22 The entire group with observers gathered under the wall. The Lozovsky–Nogotov team started processing the route. They fixed two ropes. The group departed at 5:30 AM. Within half an hour, they crossed the glacier and approached the rope. The first two ropes traverse zigzagging to the right, then to the left along a crevice through steep, smooth rocks resembling "ram's foreheads" (0–1), and lead to a ledge under an overhanging wet section of the wall, approximately 5 m, with a crack. The first climber goes without a backpack; the rest follow on jumar ascenders for 40 m along the wall (1–3). Backpacks are pulled up. Those who wish can ascend with their backpacks on jumar ascenders. They completed this section by 10:00 AM. Ahead, a wide, inclined, wet chimney is visible. They bypass it on the left (3–4) and enter a second, smaller chimney with a plug (not visible from below), which leads out onto the wall. Again, very difficult climbing: Lozovsky goes without a backpack; the others follow on jumar ascenders with their backpacks; a couple of backpacks are pulled up (4–5). The general direction of movement is up and to the left towards the main couloir, almost a chimney, which bisects the lower half of the wall from the glacier to the "nose" — a large block in that part of the wall where a gentler section is discernible. The rocks are blocky; climbing is of medium difficulty, but there are very difficult vertical sections 5–7 m long (5–6).

1.14

Ascent Passport

I. Technical category. 2. Zarafshan ridge, Fann Mountains (northern part). 3. Mirali peak, 5120 m, via the north face. 4. Proposed: category 6B, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain — 1540 m, length — 1800 m (3500–5040). Length of sections with category 5–6B difficulty — 700 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route — 74° (3500–5040). Average steepness of the main sections:

• 75° (3500–4340)

PASSPORT

1. Technical category.
2. Fann Mountains. Zeravshan Range. /Northern part./ Alaudin Lakes.
3. p. Zamok (5070) via the right part of the northern wall of the "bastion"
4. cat. III (Arkhipov's route)
5. Height difference 1270 m, route length — 2142 m. Length of sections — R0–R1 cat. III — 851 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 78°
6. Pitons used:

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Shan mountains, Zeravshan ridge
3. Peak Zamok via the right part of the North wall of Parandas shoulder
4. Proposed 5B cat. diff., first ascent
5. Elevation gain 1100 m, length 1892 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. is 876 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 76° (3800–4380), including:

• 6 cat. diff. 86° (3960–4060)
• 85° (4080–4165)

Russian Championship in Mountaineering, high-altitude technical class. 2018

Report

of the Sverdlovsk region team on the ascent via the right part of the northern wall to the peak Parandas, 4640 m (Fan Mountains). 6A route Arkhipov. July 27-29, 2018 Yekaterinburg, 2018 General photo of the northern wall of peak Parandas.

Route Passport

1. Route classification: High-altitude technical.
2. Mountain region: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge, Fan Mountains (northern part).

Report

on the ascent made by the team of a/c "Odessa" to the summit of Parandas via the right part of the North face — first ascent.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay. Zeravshan range. Fan Mountains. March 5, 1988
2. Mt. Parandas 4250 m
3. First ascent via the right part of N face 6A
4. Route type: rock
5. Height difference of the route: 850 m Route length: 1370 m. Section lengths:

Ascent Passport

1. Pamiro-Alai, Zeravshan ridge, Fann Mountains. 5.3.1
2. v. Parandas 4250 m via the center of the North face
3. First ascent, proposed 6A category of complexity
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference: 850 m, wall part 780 m.
6. Route length 1280 m, main part 890 m. Sections of 6th category 470 m. Sections of 5th category 180 m. Average steepness of the wall part 80°.