Pamir-Alay

Mountain range111,102.58 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the traverse of three peaks in the Turkestan Range, carried out by the Uzbekistan MS team as part of the CIS Alpine Championship in 1992.

Ascent Passport

  1. Traverse class.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Karavshin river basin.
  3. Peak 4507 m, 1000th Anniversary of Baptism of Rus via SE wall, 6A cat. diff. (3rd ascent); peak 4300 m via NE edge, 5A cat. diff. (approximately, first ascent); peak 4810 m via N wall, 6A cat. diff. (approximately, first ascent).
  4. Proposed category complexity: 6B cat. diff.
  5. Route characteristics: length 4016 m, ascent — 2608 m, descent — 1498 m. average traverse length — 4116 m. length of sections with V cat. diff. — 565 m, VI cat. diff. — 813 m.
  6. Pitons driven:
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Description of the passage of a category 5 route along the North-Eastern wall of Peak 4520m in the Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, completed by a group of Dnipropetrovsk climbers in 1988.

Passport

  1. Technical category.
  2. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge.
  3. Peak 4520 m via the Southeast wall.
  4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Height difference 550 m, length. Length of sections:
    • 6th category of difficulty — 110 m
    • 5B category of difficulty — 260 m Average steepness of the route — 58°.
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First ascent of Peak 4520 via the right part of the northwest wall, cat. 6B, 1485 m, 38 hours of walking time.

Passport

  1. Technical category.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Karavshin valley.
  3. Peak "4520", via the right part of the NW wall.
  4. Category 6B proposed, first ascent.
  5. Height difference 1100 m, length 1485 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty is 1275 m, including 645 m of 6B category. The average slope of the route is 70° (3420-4520). The average slope of the wall part of the route is 76° (3420-4340).
  6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |
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Account of a team’s passage on a category 6 route on the northwestern wall of Peak 4507 in the Kara-Shyv valley, Turkestan Range, in 1988.

Passport

  1. Technical class.
  2. Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge, Karavshin river valley.
  3. Peak 4507 m. First ascent via the left part of the northwest wall.
  4. 6B cat. diff. (approximate).
  5. Height difference 1300 m, length 2010 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. is 1115 m, including 535 m of 6 cat. diff. Average steepness of the main part of the route: I wall — 75° II wall — 80°
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Passport and description of the technical route 6A cat. via the left part of the North-Eastern wall to the summit 100-летие крещения Руси in the Turkestan Range.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Area — Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge, Karavshin river valley 3. Peak 1000-letie krashcheniya Rusi, via the left part of the NW wall 4. 6A category of difficulty, second ascent — did not complete the upper part! 5. Height difference — 1307 m, route length — 1890 m, average steepness — 54°. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 990 m, including 365 m of 6 category. Steepness of the main route section: first wall — 62°, second wall — 83° 6. Pitons driven:

RockBoltsNutsIce
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Report on the first ascent of Category 6B route via the center of the Southwest wall of the 1000 лет Крещения Руси peak (Kyrkchilta, 4507 m) in the Pamir-Alay.

Climbing Report on the First Ascent

As part of the Russian Climbing Championship by Correspondence. High-Altitude Technical Class

Peak 1000 let Kreshcheniya Rusii (Kyrkchilta) (4507 m) via the center of the Southwest wall. Route category 6B (proposed), first ascent. 5. Pamiro-Alay (5.4.3). Karavshin valley Team Leader: A.A. Klepikov (Master of Sports) Team Members: S.A. Lazarev (1st sports category), I.V. Likhonosov (1st sports category)

Ascent Passport

1.5. Pamiro-Alay. Karavshin valley 5.4.3. 2. Peak 1000 let Kreshcheniya Rusii (Kyrkchilta) (4507 m), center of the Southwest wall. 3. Proposed category 6B – first passage.

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Description of the passage of a 6B category complexity route to the summit "1000-летия Крещения Руси" (4507 m) in the Turkestan Range of Pamir-Alay.

  1. Technical category.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Karavshin river basin.
  3. Peak 4507 (1000th anniversary of the Baptism of Russia) via the SE wall.
  4. 6B category of difficulty, rock climbing, 3rd ascent.
  5. Height difference: total in the wall section | | 880 m | 640 m | | :--------------: | :----------: | :--------: | | length | 1058 m | 688 m | | avg. slope | 67° | 75° | | length of sections | V category of difficulty | 210 m |
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Description of a category 6 complexity route to Peak 4520 "Millennium of the Baptism of Rus" via the left counterfort of the eastern wall in Pamir-Alay.

Passport

  1. Technical class.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-su river gorge, (Karavshin river upper reaches).
  3. Peak 4520 "Millennium of the Baptism of Rus'" via the left spur of the eastern wall.
  4. First ascent of category 6 complexity (tentative).
  5. Route characteristics:
  • elevation gain: 1356 m
  • route length: 1950 m
  • section lengths:
    • 5–6 cat. diff. — 1210 m
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Report on the ascent made by the CSKA team to the peak Tyсячелетия kreщeния Руси via the 6A category route on the left counterfort of the eastern wall.

ALPINISM SPORT CLUB named after A.S. DEMCHENKO MOSCOW CHAMPIONSHIP CSKA Team named after Demchenko Report on the ascent of Pik Tyсяchelеtia kreshcheniya Rusi (Kyrkchilta), 6A cat. difficulty, 4520 m via the left buttress of the eastern wall 2013

Ascent Passport

  1. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin gorge, 5.4.3
  2. Pik 1000-letiya kreshcheniya Rusi (Kyrkchilta peak), 4520 m, via the left buttress of the eastern wall (Potankin's route 1991)
  3. 6A cat. difficulty
  4. Route type: rock
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Description of a new technically challenging Category III route up the center of the East Face of Peak 4520 (Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range), climbed by a team of mountaineers in 1992.

PASSPORT

  1. Class — Technical
  2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su valley
  3. Peak 4520 (1000th anniversary of the Baptism of Rus) via the center of the Eastern wall.
  4. Assumed 6B category of difficulty (first ascent).
  5. Height difference — 1370 m, length — 1935 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category — 770 m. Average steepness of the route — 70°.
  6. Pitons hammered: | rock | nuts | bolts | | :--------: | :--------: | :---------: |
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