Pamir-Alay
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
### Route Description Along the Northwest Wall of the Mountain Detailed analysis of sections and technical difficulty.
Photo — 4. Date taken — 1986. Lens — Industar-52. Distance — 4 km. Shooting height — 4000 m. Shooting point number — 4.
1 — Kritsuk route on C 3 wall, cat. 6 1988.
2 — Rusyaev route on "mirror" 3" wall, cat. 6 1988.
3 — Voronov route on 3 wall, cat. 6 1988.
4 — Kopeyka route on 3 wall, cat. 6 1988.
5 — Pogorelov route on NW wall, cat. 6 1986.
6 — Moroz route on NW wall, cat. 6 1986.
7 — Gorbenko route on C NW wall, cat. 6 1986.
8 — Rusyaev route on "mirror" NW wall, cat. 6 1988.
Route Description: правому канту С стены
The description of the first ascent of Gornyak Peak (5013 m) via the right edge of the North face, a 6A category route, made by the team of the Professional and Applied Alpinist Club "Gornyak" in 1990.
- Climbing category — technical
- Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
- Peak Gornjak (5013) — via the right edge of the Northern wall. KTM.5.4.1.
- Proposed difficulty category — 6A, combined, first ascent
- Height difference — 1273 m, including: wall — 453 m. Distance — 1710 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 630 m, including: 6th category — 230 m (4160–4200, 4660–4700, 4775–4990). Average steepness — 60° (3740–5013), including: wall — 73° (4560–5013).
- Pitons driven: Rock pitons 92/11 Nuts 87/11
Route Description: центру СВ стены
Description of the first ascent via the center of the NE wall of Peak Tornyak (5013) with a category 6B complexity, made by a team from St. Petersburg in 1992.
- Climb category — technical
- Climb area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
- Goryak Peak (5013 m) — via the Center of the NE wall. KTMG category 5.4.
- Proposed complexity category — 6B, First ascent
- Height difference — 1123 m, including: wall — 1060 m. Length — 1257 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category complexity — 1167 m, including: 6 category complexity — 887 m (3955–3965, 3975–4070, 4115–4205, 4220–4430, 4460–4500, 4590–4650, 4675–4930, 4970–5005) Average steepness of the route — 75°, including: wall — 78°
- Pitons used:
Route Description: центру СВ стены
Ascent of Peak 5013 (Gorniak peak) via the center of the NNE wall in the Pamir-Alay, category 6B, climbed by a team from St. Petersburg in 1998.
Ascent Passport
- Technical class
- Pamir-Alay, Karavshin gorge
- Peak 5013 (p. Gornyak), via the center of the North-North-East wall, variant: Sidorov, 1992
- Proposed category of difficulty — 6B
- Height difference: 1150 m, wall — 1100 m, of which 5–6 cat. grade — 850 m: average steepness — 75°, including the wall part — 78°
- Route length: 1300 m, wall part — 1200 m.
- Pitons driven: rock 168/31 chocks 203/38
Route Description: разлому В стены
Report on the passage of category 2B route to the summit of Zheltoy Steny (Yellow Wall) via the fault of the eastern wall in the Kara-Shiro gorge.
Peak Zheltaya стена (Yellow Wall)
4050 m
Report
of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on the ascent to v. Zheltaya стена (Yellow Wall)
via the fault of the eastern wall. "2B",
(climbing)
Participants:
- Temerev I.M.
- Temereva E.O. Tomsk – 2014
Route Description: центру В стены
Description of a challenging climbing route on a wall with numerous traverses and complex technical sections.
1 American m — t, 2 m — t Solonnikovoy 5A, 3 m — t Yanushevicha 5B, 4
"Meresyev", IX — IX, A3
Route Description: левой части В стены
First ascent via the left part of the eastern wall of "Yellow Wall" peak in Karavshin valley, Kyrgyzstan, cat. 5A.
Ascent Passport
- Area — Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alay, Karavshin Valley (Kara-Su river basin) 5.4.3.
- Peak — Yellow Wall, via the left part of the east wall
- Proposed — 5A category, first ascent
- Route type — rock climbing
- Route characteristics: Elevation gain of the main section — 600 m, route length — 800 m. length of sections with 6th category difficulty — 120 m, 5th category — 280 m
Route Description: левой части В стены
Description of a challenging alpine route with illustrations of key sections.
Technical photo of the route
General view of the route
Passing the cornice on the section
R0–R1
Section
R2–R3
Route Description: правой части стены и В ребру
Climbing report on Peak Yellow Wall via 5B category route on the right part of the wall and the eastern edge.
Siberian Federal District Alpine Championship
High-altitude technical class 2018
Report
on the ascent of Peak Zheltaya Stena, 3800 m via the route (along the right part of the wall and the eastern edge) presumably category 5B complexity by the team from Krasnoyarsk, for the period July 31, 2018.
I. Ascent Passport
| ### 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Prokofiev D.E. (MS) |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Polunin V.L. (MS) |
Route Description: центру В стены
Description of the first ascent of a 6A category rock climbing route on the Eastern wall of Zholtaya Stena peak (3800 m) in Karavshin gorge.
Ascent Passport
- Region — Pamir-Alai, Karavshin Valley, # 5.4.3.
- Peak — Yellow Wall 3800 m via the center of the east wall.
- Proposed — 6A cat. sl. first ascent.
- Route type — rock
- Route characteristics: elevation gain — 530 m. route length — 600 m. length of 6B cat. sl. sections — 375 m, 5B cat. sl. — 180 m. average steepness — 79°.