Conclusions

1. The ascent to the summit of Shlem via the western wall to the northern ridge is a rock climbing route of category 4B difficulty.
2. The total height difference: glacier — Shlem summit — 450 m.
3. The height of the western wall of the northern ridge — 200 m.
4. The average steepness of the wall — 70°.
5. The number of rock pitons hammered into the wall — 25.
6. The group took 16 hours to reach the summit from the glacier.
7. The most technically challenging sections:
   1. 150 m rock couloir.
   2. 80 m wall of the Shlem pinnacle.

9. Helmet via the western wall to the northern ridge, route 46 cat. dif., Fig. 4.

From the base camp, ascend along the Siam at first along the moraines, and then, turning right, reach the Big Siam glacier. Leaving the peaks to the right:

• Medvezhiy Zamok (Bear Castle)
• Shlem (Helmet) approach the western wall of the northern ridge of the peak. The approach from the base camp to the peak takes 4 hours. There are camping sites on the moraine. The characteristic color of the wall of the northern ridge of the peak is yellow-green. Three inclined veins run along the wall from top right to left:
• The right vein leads to the highest visible part of the wall from below,
• The middle vein is in the center,
• The left vein leads to the rocky gate on the ridge.

55. Yakum from the West, 16 cat. sl. route, fig. 29.

From the bivouac, ascend via the left couloir towards the summit. The main massif of the summit has characteristic rust-colored rocks, and to its left, the western ridge has grey rocks. Then, turning left up the slope, ascend to the western ridge of the summit. On the grassy slopes, there are individual rock outcrops and many loose stones. The oblique rust-colored rocks of the summit remain to the right. On the slopes, there are dry riverbeds. Follow one of them, and then ascend via a wide scree-filled couloir to the ridge. Travel along the ridge is over rocks and snow. Short, steep sections are traversed with simultaneous belay. The ascent to the summit is via easy, crumbling rocks. The descent from the summit is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 3–4 hours. Fig. 29.

1. Category of ascent — technical
2. Area of ascent — Gissar Range
3. Route of ascent — first ascent via the northern ridge of Khodzha Lokan peak — 4764 m
4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference — 1000 m, average steepness — 57°, length of difficult sections — 430 m
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 46, ice — 14
6. Number of travel hours — 12 h
7. Number of overnight stays — 1
8. Ascent made by a group of instructors from "Varzob" alpine camp
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification.

2. Khodzha Lokan (Dream) via the Eastern Wall, category 5A, fig. 2

From the bivouac on the left moraine of the Eastern Lednik Beloy Piramidy glacier, descend to the Kadam-Tash stream. Then, ascend the talus to the glacier located under the eastern wall of the peak. Fig. 2. Cross the glacier plateau, passing the bergschrund, to reach the Y-shaped couloir. Ascend the icy couloir along the rocks, then traverse the couloir leftwards and upwards, and continue up the left branch of the Y-shaped couloir to the wall, following the ice and snow to the end of the couloir. The exit from the couloir onto a narrow ledge via the wall is complex; then proceed left along the ledge and upwards through the rocks via a gully onto a wide, inclined ledge. The ledge has a convenient area for setting up a tent. Move right along the ledge, then ascend the icy couloir — the ice is glacial. Protection is provided by pitons. The couloir leads to a ridge (a fragment separated from the main wall). A "finger" is visible on the left. From here, ascend a chimney and continue up the rocks to an ice grotto. Traverse along a ledge, ascend a short wall, and then left and upwards along a narrow (up to 40 cm), inclined ledge for 8–10 m. Challenging! The inclination of the ledge increases leftwards up to 45°. Protection is provided by pitons. Ascend via an internal corner; the rocks are friable. Traverse right and upwards, then continue up the rocks to a convenient overnight platform. From the platform, ascend a complex wall; higher up, the slope eases, and snow may be present. Ascend the friable rocks to reach a steep snow slope. It drops away to the left. The steepness increases. Bypass a 5 m high rock wall on the right and ascend to the summit via a steep snow-and-ice ridge.

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Gissar Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Khodzha-Lokan, 4767 m, South Face.
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1100 m, b) length of 5B difficulty sections — 525 m, c) average steepness — 70°.
6. Pitons driven:

Photo 15. View of the second tier bastion from R16. Recommended ascent route:

• Photo 15. View of the second tier bastion from R16
• Photo 16. Section R17–R18. Rope descent. Photo 17. Entering the chimney R18–R19. Photo 18. Passing the chimney R19–R22.

Description

OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF KHODZHA-LOKAN /"MECHTA", 4767/ VIA THE SOUTH-EAST RIDGE. Dushanbe 1962 If you fly from Dushanbe to Moscow and the plane goes directly north, not through the Baysun pass, you can see this mountain. Soon after takeoff, the southern folds of the Hissar range appear below. The Varzob River is under the plane. Dark gray rocks line the stream's banks. Higher up, mountains rise. Among the rocks, patches of snow appear. Ice... To the left, a tall, slender mountain on an icy pedestal emerges. Like the surrounding lower peaks, it is mostly dark gray, but stands out from its neighbors with its elegance and the fact that a huge bluish snow-ice "cushion" is "hanging" on its northeastern side, clinging to its "tip". Climbers call this mountain Mechta... In 1897, while traveling through the Pamir-Alay and reaching the upper reaches of the Khanaka River, Academician LIPSKY V.I. saw this peak and made the following note: "From the pass ... a high snowy ridge was visible, much higher than the one we were on... The main peak of this ridge, significantly rising above the ridge, is conical..., sharply distinguished by its height". (LIPSKY V.I. "Mountain Bukhara. Results of three years of travel in Central Asia in 1897-1899." St. Petersburg, 1902, part 1, p. 126). This area began to attract the attention of mountaineers as the alpinism exploration of the Pamir-Alay began, particularly after the establishment of the Varzob alpine camp. In June 1953, during one of the reconnaissance hikes, a group from the alpine camp ascended to the summit of Bakhubi (Udal'naya-Tadj.), located on the watershed of the Sioma and Maykhura rivers. A participant in this ascent, now an alpinism instructor A.G. SHUKUROV, recounts that, looking at the panorama that opened up from the summit, with a beautiful pyramid in the center, the group leader A.A. KUZNETSOV exclaimed, "This is a dream!"

Report

on the ascent of the regional council's alpine team to Khodja Lokan for the championship of the Central Council

REPORT on the ascent to the summit "ALAUDIN" via the southern counterfort (4A cat. diff.)

2. Group Composition

1. Sandalov I.S. (leader) 1946, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Kr-sk
2. Loginov B.M. 1949, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Krasnoyarsk
3. Trofimov A.A. 1946, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Krasnoyarsk
4. Burlakov Yu.P. 1947, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Krasnoyarsk

3. Equipment

1. Main ropes 2 × 40 m, 1 × 60 m
2. Repschnur 1 × 10 m