Report

on the ascent to the summit of Alaudin via the southern counterfort ("Parasail") (I. Sandalov's route, 72) category 4A on July 25, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent region, range — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — mt. ALAUDIN, 4237 m, via the left wall. First ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 650 m, length of sections with 5th-6th difficulty category — 200 m, average steepness — 58°
6. Pitons driven:

MA­RUPT RPA­DA­EN­KHU­KH KO­MA­RA­OKH MA­RUPT 4A KA TO KON­KHAN KO­MA­RA­O­PEN

Peak Amshut (4850 m) via the West Face, Cat. 4B

The group set out at 9:00 from the assault camp (Amput Pass, approx. 4000 m) for the first ascent of Amshut Peak via the west face. Rounding the steeply dropping walls of Amshut via scree and snow, we reach a saddle from which the route begins. The saddle is lower than the pass level. Here, we set up the 1st control cairn. Section #1. From Cairn #1, we face "ram's foreheads" with a steepness of 45–50°. The 70-meter ascent is initially done with alternate belays, then one rope is fixed as a handrail, and it ends at a ledge before the wall. Two pitons are hammered in. Section #2. From the ledge, we climb 8 meters straight up the wall with a steepness of 80–85°. Then, we move left under the overhanging outer corner into a narrow, long cleft. When transitioning from one wall to another, we're thrown

on the left side, straight up to the rope to the end of the couloir, which ends with a chimney filled with ice. Climbing is extremely cautious, as there are many loose rocks. Above the couloir is a sheer wall, so we traverse to the right through the couloir's throat and exit to its right side. It is necessary to cross the couloir quickly due to the hanging crevice, from which pieces of ice break off and shoot through this couloir. In this section, the belay is piton (4 pitons), movement is along the fixed ropes. Section 56 From the couloir, we move to the rocks, which are steep but heavily dissected. Straight up, we climb one rope to a small ledge, where we can gather everyone. The time is already late, and we still haven't found a suitable platform for the tent. After

1. The ascent class is technical.
2. The ascent area is the Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Range.
3. The peak, its height, and the ascent route: peak Amshut, 4850 m, via the center of the north wall, first ascent.
4. The proposed category of difficulty is 5B.
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference — 1050 m, route length — 1200 m, length of sections 5–6 — 1150 m, including sections 6 — 280 m, average steepness of the route — 70°.
6. Number of pitons driven: rock pitons — 205, including for ITO — 11, chocks — 115, including for ITO — 5, bolt pitons — 2.
7. Number of walking hours to the summit — 35 hours.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Aurondak (4573 m) via the northeast wall (approximately 5B category of difficulty; second ascent). From July 15 to August 14, 1977, a team from the Kharkov regional council of the Spartak Sports Society conducted a training camp based at the Artuch resort (Fann Mountains). The goal of the camp was to enhance the participants' sportsmanship, conduct ascents for the Spartakiad of the Ukrainian Council of the Spartak Sports Society, dedicated to the 60th anniversary of the October Revolution.

Geographical and Sports Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Between the Gissar and Zeravshan ranges rises a cluster of short but high ridges known as the Fann Mountains. The area has become known relatively recently but has already established itself as interesting. Peaks such as:

• Chaptara
• Bodkhona
• Zamok

Climbing Ascent Document

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay (Fan Mountains)
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Aurondag 4573 m via the northeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 980 m average steepness — 73°, length of sections: 1st cat. diff. — —, 2nd cat. diff. — —, 3rd cat. diff. — 45, 4th cat. diff. — 340, 5th cat. diff. — 516, 6th cat. diff. — 139 m.
6. Number of pitons driven: for belaying: special — 164, wooden wedges — 5 for creating artificial holds — 11

Ascent Certificate

Technical category. Ascent area — Fann Mountains, Artuch valley, Aurongdag peak, height 4573 m, route via the northeast face. Route category 5B. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 980 m;
• average slope — 74°;
• length of sections with 5B category difficulty – 520 m. Pitons hammered:
• rock — 112;
• ice — —;
• bolt — —;