Climbing Passport

Climb category: Rock (combined) Climbing area: Iguizaki area (5.2) Peak, its height, and ascent route: Khamsöya traverse of 3 peaks (C–S) Proposed difficulty category: 4A (3A) Route characteristics:

• Elevation gain: 300 m
• Average slope: 30°
• Section lengths: R1–300; R2–500; R3–200; R4–200;
• Pitons driven:

Ascent Description

To the peak Khar'kov (category III) The group should depart from the bivouac at 6:00. You need to ascend to the glacier of peak Khar'kov via the terminal moraine and move along its slopes towards the Pяти pass, from which the ascent to the summit begins. The ascent to the pass goes through steep snow (40-45° steepness) with a bergschrund at the base, which is usually closed at the beginning of summer and opens in August-September. The length of the ascent from the bergschrund to the pass ridge is approximately 60 m. Upon reaching the pass:

• The first 10-15 m the path goes through the snowfield to the right of the rocks.
• The first "Jendarme" on the way is bypassed on the left via easy rocks.
• Then follows an exit to the ridge and movement along it on the right side.
• On the left side of the ridge, there is a good platform for organizing an overnight stay.
• Along the ridge, the path goes to the second jendarme.

Description

of the 3B category difficulty route to the summit "KHARKOV" via the NW edge. From the bivouac organized on the moraine of the western slopes of the summit "PESHIN", the group heads to the cairn of the "SNEZHNY" pass (the transition takes 30–40 minutes), from where the route to the summit "KHARKOV" via the NW edge is clearly visible. The route begins from the "SNEZHNY" pass, going vertically up the snow with initially gentle slopes, and then the steepness reaches 50–55°. Bypassing the lower rock outcrop:

• Bypassed on the left. Characteristics of the snow route:

23. Khodzha Laizi from the south, route category III, fig. 10 (Mukhamedova E., with a group – 1953)

The route starts from the Khodzha-Obi-Garm resort along a grassy slope to the southern ridge of the summit. Climb along the ridge to a rocky gendarme, which does not present particular difficulties. Pass the next gendarme on the right through a couloir with black stones. The couloir leads to a grassy slope, at the top of which a large rocky spire is visible. KHODJA LAISI CORNISES (IN SPRING)! 23 RESORT Fig. 10. The grassy ridge narrows and leads to rocks. Reach the sub-summit along the ridge. Traverse complex sections on the left of the ridge along scree. Before the summit, the ridge has a steep step down, 5–7 m high, where it is necessary to set up a rope descent. Steep, smooth rocks lead to the summit ridge. Reach the summit along easy rocks. The ascent takes 6 hours. Descend from the summit to the left along scree into the cirque beneath Ular peak. In winter, descend via the ascent route. The ascent takes 8–9 hours.

1. Khodzha Lokan (Mechta) via the west ridge, 4A cat. diff. route, fig. 2.

From the base camp, cross to the Kadam-Tash stream via Cheryotyrekh Pass. Then ascend the scree to the glacier located beneath the eastern wall of the summit. Cross the glacier plateau to Mechta Pass, where there are overnight stay areas. Descend from the pass down the glacier for 15–20 minutes. Before reaching the glacier's bend, ascend in the direction of:

• the bergschrund;
• two rock "islands";
• the ridge leading to the snowy saddle on the summit's west ridge. The ascent up the ice slope is done with alternating belays via ice screws. Higher up, belays are set using rock pitons hammered into the rocks of the "islands" and the ridge leading to the saddle. The ascent from the glacier to the saddle is 400 m. Above the saddle, the gendarme's wall is crowned with three peaks, between which two chimneys descend down the entire wall. Pass under the wall on the right via wide horizontal ledges and reach a couloir. Cross the couloir and ascend to the summit ridge via its right side. Follow the ridge (over rocks and snow) to the summit. The ascent from Mechta Pass to the summit takes 8–10 hours. The descent is from the summit via the ascent route. From the saddle, the descent is organized with rope retrieval down to the glacier. Then follow the glacier through the passes:

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CLASS: technical
2. ASCENT AREA, RANGE: Pamir-Alay, Gissar Range
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Khodzha Lokan (4767 m) via the Western part of the South face
4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: approximately VI category of difficulty
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS:
   • ELEVATION GAIN: 1170 m
   • LENGTH OF COMPLEX SECTIONS:
     • III — 50 m
     • IV — 250 m

1. Climbing class — technical
2. Climbing area — Upper Siama, Gissar Range
3. Climbing route — via the South-Southeast buttress
   • peak Khodja Lokan — 4767 m
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1250 m
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 810 m
   • average steepness — 77°
6. Number of pitons: rock pitons for belay — 129

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Upper Siam, Gissar ridge.
3. Peak, ascent route — South-South-East buttress of Khodzha Lokan peak, 4767 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 860 m, average steepness of the wall part — 77°.
6. Pitons hammered:

130

II. Khosilot.

Description of the ascent from the West via route 1Б (Category III)

I. Approaches.

The approaches to the start of the route are similar to those for the Yaghnobskaya Stena (main peak) route. It's also possible to exit directly under the route.

II. Ascent (from the camp in the upper Kanyon).

Move in the direction of the western wall of the peak, exiting onto the ridge beneath it. Along the wall, descend 300 meters. Here, a wide fracture of the peak's massif ends in a narrow couloir. A waterfall cascades down from the peak's plateau. The ascent path is to the left (in the direction of travel) of the waterfall, via easy rock. Move simultaneously, but cautiously. After 1–1.5 hours, exit onto the plateau, in the eastern part of which, between two peaks, there is a connecting ridge, accessible via easy rock. From the connecting ridge, also on easy rock, move simultaneously. Descend from the peak via the ascent route. The ascent from camp to camp takes 7–8 hours. The first ascent was made in July 1971 by a group consisting of:

• Tkachev V.K., Candidate Master of Sports
• Kislov Yu., 3rd sports category

Description

Ascent from the north to p. Khosilot 2B cat. sl. and descent along route 1B cat. sl. I. Climbing Area. p. Khosilot (4650 m) is located in the Yaghnob Wall area.

• To the north, from the summit to the Ledovyy col between the Eastern peak of the Yaghnob Wall and Khosilot, lies a glacier.
• To the northeast, a steep ice-rock ridge descends into the Yaghnob river valley.
• To the west, a rocky ridge stretches, ending in 200-meter sheer cliffs.
• The southern slopes of the peak are more eroded and drop down with sheer walls and wide ledges to a nameless col.