Report

on the ascent of the regional council's alpine team to Khodja Lokan for the championship of the Central Council

Brief description of the ascent

From the base camp, we reached the Kadam-Tash stream via the Four Pass. Then, trying not to lose altitude, we traversed the scree slopes on the eastern slopes of the peak. Four to five hours after the Four Pass, having overcome several rocky, degraded ridges descending from Khodja Lokan, we reached the base of the southeast ridge. There are platforms for overnight stay on the scree under the base of the ridge.

From the platforms, we bypassed the rocky outcrops at the base of the southeast ridge on the left through couloirs filled with loose scree. The couloir is steep and turns into a concave wall at the top, thus limiting the route on the left. The further path is logical and runs along the ridge and to its left. Sections of easy climbing alternate with rocks of moderate difficulty. One should not deviate too far to the left into the couloir, as there is a high risk of rockfall there. The total length of this section is about 300 m with an average steepness of up to 60°.

The further ascent goes along the left side of the southeast ridge through complex rocks for about 500 m to a large ledge. The section begins with a 20-meter sheer wall with a chimney closed at the top by a large plug. The ascent goes to the left of the chimney through a crack to a ledge. The weather deteriorates, with snow and rain. Above, sections of steep slabs and walls alternate with shelves. Before a gap, we ascended a smooth wall 25–30 m high through a vertically running crack. Then, a smooth wall leads to a corner formed by overhanging rocks above and a wall on the right, 40 m high. The overhanging rocks above become less steep and turn into slabs leading to the next wall, 45 m high. Ascending the wall through a crack to a shelf. Then, through an inner corner to a shelf that leads to a large gap on the right.

From the large gap, the ascent goes up a wall, 80 m, somewhat to the left of the ridge line. The first 6 m are on a sheer wall, then through a crack and an inner corner to a shelf. From the shelf, up a wall to a small gap.

The small gap is a wide shelf. From the gap, 40 m up a sheer wall to under a "book" – a sheer inner corner 8–10 m high with a crack and smooth walls. The ascent is through the "book" using artificial support. Above the "book" is a shelf. Loose rocks!

From the shelf, 5 m up a wall to another shelf. To the right, we bypassed a fragment and climbed onto it – 10 m. Further movement is along shelves, deviating to the right from the ridge, bypassing the wall. After 60 m, we again reach the ridge, along which we continue to a platform located to the right of the ridge.

The ridge starts to become less steep. Along the sharp, degraded ridge for about 300 m, bypassing complex sections of the ridge on the left and right as we go. A gap in the ridge is bypassed on the right. A large gendarme is bypassed on the left along a shelf. Then, we ascend onto the ridge via snow and climb to the summit.

The descent from the summit is along the western ridge – category 4A.

Throughout the ascent, the group had a sufficient supply of food and used the following equipment:

• main rope 4 × 40 m
• loops made from the main rope for rappelling
• 8 mm, 8 m cord
• carabiners – 25 pcs
• ice axe – 1
• harness – 4
• rock hammers – 3
• rock pitons – 25
• chocks – 8
• self-belay loops – 4
• jammers – 7
• ladders – 2
• ice axes – 3
• "Pamirka" tent – 1
• "Tulip" radio station – 1

Protocol No. 4 dated July 19, 1982. Review of the ascent to peak Khodja Lokan via the SE ridge, category 5Б. Group composition: Sokolov S.A. – team leader, CMS; Elgin V.M. – participant, 1st category; Davydenko V.N. – participant, CMS; Trushkov V.V. – participant, 1st category.

Present: Releasing officer – Sorokin S.V., Head of Rescue – Kovalenko A.V.

Sokolov S.A. The team in this composition was on a complex rock route for the first time, so the tactical plan was primarily aimed at completing the challenging route with maximum safety. The ascent proceeded strictly according to the tactical plan. Elgin V.M. worked the most on the first day. I was mostly in the middle of the group, maintaining communication and controlling the group's work. On July 15th, we started the route at 8:00. The rope teams were divided as follows: Trushkov-Sokolov, Elgin-Davydenko. Elgin climbed the rocky key sections in climbing shoes. On the first day of the ascent, it was snowing with rain, significantly complicating the route. We stopped for the night at 20:00 in a large gap. On the same day, Trushkov processed one rope length from the gap. The next day, we began the ascent at 9:00. The weather improved significantly, and our pace increased accordingly. We reached the summit at 20:00 and started descending via category 4A at 20:30. We spent the night on a ridge saddle. There were no complaints about the participants. Everyone worked harmoniously. I would especially like to note Elgin V.M.'s high technical skill as a CMS in rock climbing.

Elgin V.M. Completing this route was my first category 5Б ascent. I prepared thoroughly for the climb. As the lead climber, I had no difficulties in choosing the route. During the ascent, I mainly used chocks, less often pitons and slings. I used a ladder twice. The route is logical and really appealed to me. I got great satisfaction from the ascent.

Trushkov V.V. In addition to Elgin V.M.'s remarks, sometimes the order of the rope teams was altered during the ascent. For instance, I worked with all group members at different times without experiencing any inconvenience – this speaks to the group's cohesion and the ability of the rope teams to work together. The route is very emotional and undoubtedly corresponds to category 5Б.

Davydenko V.N.

I join my colleagues' remarks. Each participant contributed their share to completing the route. Since the route was completed without deviations, the tactical plan was fulfilled, and the route was completed without remarks – the leadership of Sokolov should be credited.

Sorokin S.V. The group prepared well for the ascent, and the route was completed competently and technically correctly. The leader coped with the leadership. Everyone worked in their place, and there was mutual assistance. Elgin is an excellent lead climber on complex sections, but I would like him not to become complacent.

I hope that the sporting and human relationships within your group will be maintained.

Credit the participation and leadership to Sokolov S.A.

I have familiarized myself with the review protocol: Head of KSP Tajik Region: p/p Leonov

Copy is true: Sokolov peak Khodja-Lokan, photo taken from the "Four" pass Ascent through the "Book"