9. Helmet via the western wall to the northern ridge, route 46 cat. dif., Fig. 4.

From the base camp, ascend along the Siam at first along the moraines, and then, turning right, reach the Big Siam glacier. Leaving the peaks to the right:

• Medvezhiy Zamok (Bear Castle)
• Shlem (Helmet)

approach the western wall of the northern ridge of the peak. The approach from the base camp to the peak takes 4 hours. There are camping sites on the moraine.

The characteristic color of the wall of the northern ridge of the peak is yellow-green.

Three inclined veins run along the wall from top right to left:

• The right vein leads to the highest visible part of the wall from below,
• The middle vein is in the center,
• The left vein leads to the rocky gate on the ridge.

The general direction of ascent is up the wall, left of the leftmost vein, to a large wide shelf in the lower part of the wall, and then further up the wall to the rocky gate of the ridge.

From the moraine, ascend along the snow and scree to the wall, left of the leftmost vein, under a wide shelf, from which a stream flows. From the stream, along the shelf, right up the wall, under steep, heavily fissured rocks. Up the rocks and the inner corner (difficult) ascend to a narrow shelf. Along the shelf, left under the overhanging wall, reach a wide (20 m) shelf. Above the shelf are sheer yellow-green walls.

Up to the right, a shelf with a slope of up to 60° leads up the wall. Along the shelf for about 100 m. Belay is with pitons. Live rocks on the shelf! At the end, the shelf becomes less steep, up to 30°. Up the wall with a slight traverse to the right, reach the scree (with large rocks) shelves. Along the shelves to the right for about 100 m to the inner corner with a black vein. Up the inner corner for 30 m is difficult. The corner leads to the rocky gate of the northern ridge of the peak.

Along the gentle ridge, approach the steep snowy ascent, which leads to the ridge. Along the ridge for 100–120 m along rocks of medium difficulty. Belay via ledges. Pass between two large black rocks and to the right along inclined slabs to the inner corner. Up the inner corner 8 m of difficult climbing to a narrow shelf. From the shelf, again up the inner corner for 15 m. Belay is with pitons.

Left along an inclined slab with a cleft, reach the summit dome. Along easy rocks and scree, ascend to the summit.

Descent from the summit to the south — cat. 4A (route 8). The duration of the route is 2 days.

Fig. 4.