MINISTRY OF SPORTS OF KRASNOYARSK KRAI KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION

Siberian Federal District Alpinism Championship

2018

• High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

On the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team Kolesnikov K.I.—Smetanin N.A. to peak Zvezdny, 2265 m, via the center of the NE wall

• First ascent via "Kvadrat"
• Variant — 6A category of complexity

Contents

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class 2020

REPORT

On the ascent of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Krai and Moscow, Parfenov A.A. – Lebedev N.M. to Peak Zvezdny, 2265 m, via the Center of the NE wall, 6A (Khvostenko, 01)

I. Ascent Passport

Working notes from 6A Khvostenko on Zvezdny (July 2020) June 29 10:00 departure 10:35 below the route 11:00 start of work 16:00 above the first ledge by 17 m — 2.5 ropes fixed. 1st rope: Ito, Sky, relief. Installed one new bolt in an old hole. 2nd rope: Ito, Sky, 5 m, climbing to the ledge 6B+/6C. Bolts at the station, but better 5 m higher, just a 60 m rope. 3rd rope: 8 m, climbing in boots. Ito on the flake, wet and slime from under the eave, can be bypassed on the left on the fifi hooks. At the end — climbing on wet rock to the bolts on the eave 5C+. From them traverse right 10 m. Two bolts. Slightly left: one Sky hole, wet; friend under the eave; bolt behind the eave; three Sky holes.

Peak Zvezdny

2265 m

REPORT

of the Tomsk region team (TFA) on the first ascent of the route to Peak Zvezdny via the center of the NE wall "6A" (rock climbing)

Participants:

Temerev I.M., Lebasov E.M., Kopytov F.A., Kovaleva A.V., Novosseltsev A.V. Tomsk – 2013

ASCENT DETAILS

1. Sayan Mountains, Western Sayan, 6.2.13
2. Peak Zvezdny, via the center of the northeast wall.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type — rock climbing
2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
3. Peak Vostochny Zvezdny, 2190 m via S wall
4. Claimed as — first ascent
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 280 m.
• total length 595 m.
• length of sections with 4th cat. diff. — 75 m., 3rd cat. diff. — 200 m.
• average steepness: entire route — 45°.

Sections R3–R7

• R3
• R4
• R5
• R6
• R7 Section R5–R6
• R5
• R6

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Ergaki Ridge, Western Sayan. 6.2
2. Summit — Zvezdny Peak (V) 2190 m via South Ridge
3. Proposed — Category 3A difficulty, first ascent
4. Route type — Rock climbing
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain approximately 300 m, length approximately 1000 m
6. Equipment used on the route: 19 protection pieces
7. Total climbing hours — 5
8. Overnight stays — none

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Peak Zvezdny Vostochny 2100 m from Piquantny pass.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B.
5. Height difference 110 m, route length 450 m, average slope 35°.
6. 18 (0) fixed protection elements used on the route.
7. Number of climbing hours — seven.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group composition:

Passport

1. Rock climbing route.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Pik Vostochny Zvezdny, 2100 m. West wall.
4. Proposed — 4A cat. dif., first ascent.
5. Height difference: 250 m. length of sections with 4–5 cat. dif.: 50 m, average steepness of the route: 40°.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock pitons: 4, chocks: 31.
7. Total climbing hours: 15, days: 1.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
3. Pik Vostochny Zvezdny, 2190 m via the center of the Eastern wall
4. Proposed category — 4A first ascent

5. Route Characteristics

• Height difference — 280 m
• Total length — 345 m
• Length of sections: 5th cat. diff. – 40 m, 4th cat. diff. – 100 m, 3rd cat. diff. – 175 m, 2nd cat. diff. – 50 m
• Average steepness of the entire route — 60°