Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type — rock climbing
2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
3. Peak Vostochny Zvezdny, 2190 m via S wall
4. Claimed as — first ascent
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 280 m.
• total length 595 m.
• length of sections with 4th cat. diff. — 75 m., 3rd cat. diff. — 200 m.
• average steepness: entire route — 45°.

6. Equipment used on the route:

• chocks — 22,
• pitons — 4,
• including on ITO — 0,
• left behind — 0.

7. Total climbing hours — 4
8. Team members:

• Leader: Zhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich — 3rd sports category
• Member: Shevchenko Grigory Sergeevich — III sports category

9. Team coaches:

• Zakharov Nikolai Nikolaevich
• Balezin Valery Viktorovich

10. Dates:

• On the route 10 August 2009, 8:00
• Summit 12:00
• Return 15:30

11. Organized by: Krasnoyarsk City Alpinism Federation, as part of the "Sayan Vertical" Ergaki 2009 training camp. Overall route photo

    UIAA Scheme

Route Description

The approach starts from the 622nd km of the Krasnoyarsk — Kyzyl highway, from the bridge over the Tushkanchik river, and takes about 3 hours to reach Svetloe lake (approximately 9 km, 400 m elevation gain).

From the lake, a trail follows the valley along the stream towards p. Zvezdny. It takes about 1 hour to reach the foot of the southern wall of p. Vostochny Zvezdny.

The route has been climbed many times and is very popular in the area. It starts from a large grassy ledge. Section R0–R1 – 100 m, 40°, II cat. diff. Inclined slabs with cracks. Abundant relief.

Section R1–R2 – 60 m, 40°, III cat. diff. Up the inclined slab to the left, to a large grassy ledge. Friends used for protection. Belay station behind a "balda".

Section R2–R3 — 80 m, 40°, II cat. diff. Traverse right along the ledge, then alternating between walls and ledges overgrown with grass. Belay station in a crack using friends and medium-sized cams. Friends and cams used for protection.

Section R3–R4 — 25 m, 60°, IV cat. diff. Wall with cracks, climbed by free climbing. Leads to a ledge. Belay station on friends. Friends and pitons used for protection.

Section R4–R5 — 60 m, 45°, III+ cat. diff. Inclined slab, traverse left to an internal corner. Belay station on cams. Friends and pitons used for protection.

Section R5–R6 — 40 m, 60°, IV cat. diff. Internal corner, overgrown with grass, leads under a small wall. Climbed by free climbing. Belay station behind a rock. Friends used for protection.

Section R6–R7 — 200 m, 40°, II cat. diff. Series of long grassy ledges:

• Long grassy ledge 1
• Long grassy ledge 2
• Long grassy ledge 3. Simultaneous movement in a rope team.

Section R7–R8 — 30 m, 40°, III cat. diff. Small inclined wall, with an exit to a grassy ledge under a large chimney.

Section R8–R9–10 m, 90°, IV cat. diff. Chimney climbed in a wide stance, easy climbing. Section R9–R10–100 m, 30°, III cat. diff. Exit to the ridge and easy climbing with alternating protection, via a small chimney, to the summit.

Descent follows the ascent route.