Passport

1. Rock climbing route.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Pik Vostochny Zvezdny, 2100 m. West wall.
4. Proposed — 4A cat. dif., first ascent.
5. Height difference: 250 m.

length of sections with 4–5 cat. dif.: 50 m, average steepness of the route: 40°.

6. Pitons hammered in:

rock pitons: 4, chocks: 31.

7. Total climbing hours: 15, days: 1.
8. Team leader: Pokhodenko A.V. 2nd sports category

team members: Prokofiev D.E. 2nd sports category, Khudyakov N.V. 2nd sports category, Cherezova O.A. 2nd sports category

9. Route start: July 1, 1999 8:00. 10°! summit: 20:40.

return to camp: 23:00.

10. Krasnoyarsk Kray Sport Committee

Tactical actions of the team on the route

Section R0–R2 is climbed with rope installation. Section is processed by Prokofiev, with Khudyakov on belay, others ascend via jumar on the fixed ropes.

Section R2–R3 — free simultaneous climbing. Section R3–R7 — change of lead, first Pokhodenko, with Prokofiev on belay. Others move on fixed ropes.

Section R7–R9 — simultaneous movement. Descent from the south side of the summit. From the ledge R7–R8 — three rappel ropes with rope retrieval.

Route diagram in UIAA signs

Overall photo of the summit. Taken on July 1, 1999 at 15:00. Routes: — 3A S.e. ridge — 3B N.e. ridge — the climbed route.

Brief description of route sections

1. Section R0–R1

The lower part of the rock was covered with snow when the route was climbed. Start of climbing is on an inner corner, partially wet and overgrown with grass. In the middle the section becomes less steep due to occurring ledges.

2. Section R1–R2

Overhang. Inner corner with one overhanging wall. Climbed with artificial aids.

3. Section R2–R3

Gentle inner corner after the overhang, leading to a wide inclined ledge with rock outcrops, climbed with free climbing.

4. Section R3–R4

Not steep inclined rocks, partially heavily overgrown with grass, alternating with small ledges.

5. Section R4–R5

Section starts with a vertical, narrow chimney. In the upper part, the chimney is closed by an overhanging ceiling. The chimney is wet, and due to the stiffness of movements caused by the overhang, artificial aids are used. After the chimney, there is a wall overgrown with grass, with a steepness of about 50–60°. Belaying is difficult due to the lack of relief and the fragility of the rocks.

6. Section R5–R6

Loose and grassy inner corner. From the upper part of the corner, a pendulum belay is used to traverse a steep, monolithic rock wall on small ledges leading to a rock ridge formed by a bend in the wall.

7. Section R6–R7

After the ridge, a traverse of the wall is made from a ledge, following a crack, leading to inclined ledges. Ledges alternate with not steep rocks.

8. Section R7–R8

Wide horizontal ledge, going beyond the ridge to the south side of the summit.

9. Section R8–R9

From the ledge to the summit, there are uncomplicated rocks. Technical photo of the route. Taken on July 1, 1999 at 15:00.