Western Sayan

Mountain range126,946.50 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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First ascent of the western wall of Zvezdny peak (2265 m, Ergaki, Western Sayan) with a 6A difficulty grade, 590 m height difference, and 655 m length.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock
  2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
  3. Peak — Zvezdny 2265 m via the western wall, rock
  4. Proposed — 6A first ascent
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 590 m. total length — 655 m. length of sections with 5th difficulty grade — 180 m. length of sections with 6th difficulty grade — 250 m.
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Climbing passport for Zvezdny Peak via the left part of the West face in the Western Sayan Mountains, category 6A complexity level, rock climbing route.

ASCENT REPORT

  1. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  2. Peak name: Zvezdny Peak, route name: via the left part of the West Face.
  3. Proposed category: 6A, variation.
  4. Route type: rock.
  5. Route height difference: 495 m (by altimeter). Route length: 539 m. Section length: 5th cat. diff.: 260 m, 6th cat. diff.: 239 m. Average steepness:
    • main part of the route: 83°
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Report on the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Zvezdny via the 3rd wall, category complexity 5B.

Siberian Federal District and Far Eastern Federal District Championship in Alpinism

Technical and Altitude Class, 2024

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Pik Zvezdny 2265 m via the 3rd wall, category 5B, by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai on July 29, 2024 2024

I. ASCENT PASSPORT

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, sports rank of the leaderTimofeev V. M. (MS)
1.2Full Name, sports rank of participantsBalezine V. V. (MSMK), Savelyev V. A. (MS)
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Report on the ascent made by a team from the Krasnoyarsk mountaineering club to the peak Zvezdny via the Bolezin Route on the western wall, rated as category 5B.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Pik Zvezdny 2265 m via the western wall, Balezin's route, 5B category of complexity, by the team of the Krasnoyarsk Alpine Club on July 25, 2024.

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderFedosenko Alexey Sergeevich — CMS
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of ParticipantsTaskin Andrey Sergeevich — 1st sports rank
1.3Full Name of CoachGunko Vladimir Sergeevich
1.4OrganizationKrasnoyarsk Alpine Club
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Report on the ascent of Pik Zvezdny via the Balezina route on the western wall, category 5B.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Pik Zvezdny 2265 m via the western wall, Balezin's route, 5B category of difficulty, by the team from the Republic of Khakassia on August 8, 2024.

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderIvanov Timofey Pavlovich, CMS
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsZhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich, MS
1.3Full name of coachZhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich, MS
1.4OrganizationFederation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of the Republic of Khakassia
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
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Description of the first ascent of a 6B category route on the North-Eastern wall of the Zvezdny peak (2265 m) in the Ergaki ridge, Western Sayan.

Passport

  1. Rock climbing category.
  2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  3. Zvezdny Peak, 2265 m, via the Northeast wall.
  4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 575 m, route length 665 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 605 m, average slope 79°.
  6. Pitons used: rock nuts bolts ice screws 103/54 214/114 27/17 7/0
  7. Climbing time 67 hours, total duration 9 days (including acclimatization).
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Description of the ascent via a Category III route on the Northeast Wall of Zvezdny Peak in Ergaki Range, Western Sayan, in May 2002.

Ascent Log

  1. Ascent classification: technical
  2. Ascent area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
  3. Peak, route: Zvezdny via the NE wall
  4. Difficulty category: 6A, winter ascent
  5. Height difference: 700 m, with 700 m being wall ascent Total length:
    • 5th difficulty category — 220 m
    • 6th difficulty category — 150 m average route steepness — 67°
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First ascent via the "Cosine Curve" route on the Northeast wall of Pik Zvezdny (2265 m), Ergaki mountain range, category 5B, winter 2015, by Zhigalov A.V. and Matyushin N.O.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, p. 6.2
  2. Summit — Zvezdny, 2265 m, via "Cosinusoid" on the NE wall
  3. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty — first ascent
  4. Route type — combined
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 570 m, total route length — 1020 m, wall section length — 670 m, sections with 6th category of difficulty — 320 m, 5th category of difficulty — 90 m, average steepness of the entire route — 63.3°, wall section — 64.8°, 1st bastion — 51.5°, 2nd bastion — 72.2°.
  6. Equipment used on the route: anchor pitons — 107/85, 2 left on pendulum swings, 4 on rappels, camolots — 82/92, about 165 ITOS on "fifths", about 16 ITOS on skyhooks, 2 ITOS on bolt pitons, 7 bolt pitons hammered and left, 3 ears twisted, 4 ears left, on all stations for platform installation and one intermediate key section.
  7. Number of climbing hours — 37.5, days — 5. Descent 5.5 hours via Temerev I.'s route, 6A category of difficulty. Overnights — 4, all on the wall platform.
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Description of the first ascent of Zvezdny peak via the NE wall and the NW ridge bastions, category 6A, in the Western Sayan Mountains.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  2. Peak — Zvezdny via the NE wall and the bastions on the NW ridge
  3. Category — 6A, first ascent
  4. Route type — rock
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 600 m. Route length — 830 m. Length of 6B sections — 375 m, 5B sections — 220 m. Average steepness of the main part: first bastion — 80°, second — 80°, third — 90°, whole route — 67°.
  6. Equipment left on the route: pitons — 1, including drilled pitons — 0, chocks — 1. Pitons used on the route:
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Report on the first ascent of a 6A category route on the right part of the North-Eastern wall of Zvezdny peak (2265 m) in the Sayan Mountains.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Zvezdny via the right part of the northeast wall 6A category of difficulty by the team from Krasnoyarsk Krai (REDFOXTEAM) from October 11 to 14, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderAlexander Vladimirovich Zhigalov — Master of Sports
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsTimofey Pavlovich Ivanov — Candidate for Master of Sports
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