Working notes from 6A Khvostenko on Zvezdny (July 2020)

June 29 10:00 departure 10:35 below the route 11:00 start of work 16:00 above the first ledge by 17 m — 2.5 ropes fixed. 1st rope: Ito, Sky, relief. Installed one new bolt in an old hole. 2nd rope: Ito, Sky, 5 m, climbing to the ledge 6B+/6C. Bolts at the station, but better 5 m higher, just a 60 m rope. 3rd rope: 8 m, climbing in boots. Ito on the flake, wet and slime from under the eave, can be bypassed on the left on the fifi hooks. At the end — climbing on wet rock to the bolts on the eave 5C+. From them traverse right 10 m. Two bolts. Slightly left: one Sky hole, wet; friend under the eave; bolt behind the eave; three Sky holes. Ito on friends on the edge. Can go left into the chimney — wet, passed on the right — also wet. Ito: anchors, friends, bolt on the shelf, station.

June 30 8:30 departure 10:30 started working. Sergey. On the edge Ito on friends, anchors to the eave. Can climb periodically. Two bolts at the station under the eave. Further around the edge Ito on Sky 12 m. Ledge, two bolts. Left 10 m, up — two bolts under the station. Better to climb right. We up the crack Ito, cleaned, pendulum right — can climb. Sergey: sometimes Ito, sometimes climbing. 13:00 exit to the ledge. 40 m walking left. On sloping ledges with grass 25 m left up, rare protection. Transition to the right under the small eave into the internal corner, station. Up 30 m on the internal corner, climbing 6A–6B, station on two bolts, hanging. 25 m up the corner, climbing 5A, 5C. On the shelf in front of the wall — station. Old and cracked bolt, flake sounds hollow. Added a new bolt. 20 m up Ito on Sky. Many holes. For 1 m height there can be up to 6 pieces in different directions. 5–6 bolts. One relief, a pair of anchors. Station to the right of the ledge on three bolts. Although on the left there is a flake for a loop. Right up on Sky 7 m. Protection on one removal and two anchors. On the edge Ito: anchors, nuts 20 m. Sometimes can climb. At the end — 7 m climbing 5C. Station on one bolt and own gear. On the left, 2 m away — 2013 route. 19:00 fixed 2.5 ropes almost to the slab with skyhooks.

July 1 5:40 departure 7:00 start of work. On the internal corner — climbing 5C+, 8 m. Ledge, two bolts. Slab initially 75°. Then 80°. Skyhooks. Five bolts. Installed two removals. At the pendulum, went higher through the holes. Double path. At the end — old bolt. Entrance to the internal corner — easy climbing. Straightened and 4 m higher and to the left above the ledge, hammered in a bolt. Good station. Up the internal corner: climbing 6A, 6B; 3 m Ito. Bypass the eave on the left, two bolts for the station; right up — climbing 6B to the horizontal ledge with grass. Above it — two bolts. On the ledge right into the internal corner. Station on friends and large tricam. Up on corners and cracks 6A–6B. Station on the ledge on own gear. Up through a small overhang: climbing 6B+; wide chimney (crevice) 6B in opposition; crack 6A+; eave 6C (7A?) on the crack; helps to wedge a leg in the ceiling part and transition to the layback. Crack 6 m, final climb on foot 5A to the ledge on Zvezdny's shoulder. In the wide chimney — station looped on a rock. On the left, there is a piton without an eye. 25 m walking to the summit to the cairn. There is connection: Tele2 and 4G. Total of four ropes to the ledge before the summit. 11:45 — summit. Descent via 5A Kant. Four rappels of 55–62 m. On the first and third, the rope gets stuck on the relief. 14:00 — below Kant. 14:00 — set up a tent under Ptitsa. 16:00 — departed without gear to the viewpoint. 18:30 — Piquantny pass. 19:00 — base camp under Zvezdny.