Peak Zvezdny

2265 m

REPORT

of the Tomsk region team (TFA) on the first ascent of the route to Peak Zvezdny via the center of the NE wall "6A" (rock climbing)

Participants:

Temerev I.M., Lebasov E.M., Kopytov F.A., Kovaleva A.V., Novosseltsev A.V.

Tomsk – 2013

ASCENT DETAILS

1. Sayan Mountains, Western Sayan, 6.2.13
2. Peak Zvezdny, via the center of the northeast wall.
3. First ascent, proposed category 6A.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Height difference: 500 m.

Route length: 610 m. Section lengths:

• Category 5: 89 m.
• Category 6: 416 m.

Average slope: 76° 6. Pitons left on the route: Left on the route during ascent: 14 bolts, 2 chocks, 1 anchor (2 control tours on bolts and 1 on an anchor in plastic bottles at R1, R7, and R9). Pitons used on the route: - Bolted pitons: 14, including 6 for artificial aids. - Removable bolts: 15, all used for artificial aids. - Hole skyhooks: 122, all used for artificial aids. - Friend chocks: 57, including 45 for artificial aids. - Rock anchors, fifi hooks: 171, including 159 for artificial aids. Total artificial aids used: 347. 7. Team's total climbing hours: 60 hours, over 8 days. 8. Team leader: - Temerev Ivan Mikhailovich — Master of Sport Participants: - Lebasov E.M. — Candidate for Master of Sport - Kopytov F.A. — Master of Sport - Kovaleva A.V. — Candidate for Master of Sport - Novosseltsev A.V. — 1st sports category 9. Coach: Temerev I.M. 10. Approach to the route: 10:00, March 5, 2013. Rest days due to bad weather: March 7 and 8. Summit: 11:30, March 14, 2013. Return to base camp: 17:00, March 14 is incorrect, likely a typo and should refer to another date as the sequence indicates an error; assuming it should be a date after March 14. 11. Organizing body: Tomsk Regional Public Organization "Tomsk Alpine Federation". 12. Report author: Temerev I.M.

E-mail: ivantem@ngs.ru, icq: 204984743, skype: ivantem1979, tel.: 9528823151.

DESCRIPTION OF THE CLIMBING AREA

Peak Zvezdny, 2265 m. The highest point in the area. Ergaki Ridge, Western Sayan.

Zvezdny is bounded by walls on three sides — northeast, south, and west. The simplest, classic ascent route is 3B via the Eastern ridge, which also serves as the descent route. The south and west walls have the most frequented routes — classic rock climbs of category 5A. The Northeast wall of Zvezdny has a single route, category 6A, via the center (Khvostenko, 2001).

To climb Zvezdny from the north, start from Lake Vosmerka, approaching via Lake Zolotoye and Pikanтный Pass, similar to the approach to Zub Dragona.

This route is not listed in the FAR (Federation of Alpinism of Russia) classifier. However, the 2009 guidebook to Ergaki by "Risk onsite" mentions Yarunov's 2001 route on the left part of the NE wall. Our route strays from this line by about 30% in the lower part and 10% in the upper part. On the vertical bare slabs in the middle and upper parts of our route, where our line coincided with the guidebook's route, we found only one hole for a removable bolt on section R8.

Given the above, we consider this ascent a first passage.

General view photograph of the summit.

General photo of the summit with the route taken by the team marked, along with nearby classified routes to the right and left. Caption under the photo explains route markings.

Peak Zvezdny 2265 m

1. Left part of NE wall, 5B (Yarunov, 2001)
2. Center of NE wall, 6A (Khvostenko, 2001)
3. NE wall, 5B (Balezin, 1997) 3a. Yarunov's variation, 2001
4. NE wall and NW ridge bastions, 5B (Balezin, 2001)
5. Center of NE wall, 6A (Temerev, 2013)

For 5-6 category routes, a drawn profile is recommended.

ROUTE PROFILE

March 14, 2013. Zvezdny 2265 m.

Scale 1:2500

Photograph of the route profile.

Right-side photograph of the route profile.

Taken in summer from the slopes of Peak Zub Dragona. Distance to the NE wall of Peak Zvezdny is about 2 km.

Area Photopanorama.

Photograph taken on thin, color photographic paper, size not less than 13×18 cm. The panorama should show several peaks of the same ridge to the right and left of the ascent object. All peak names and passes should be marked on the photo.

Taken in summer from the Taygishonskaya wall. Distance to Zvezdny is about 5 km.

Area Map.

Abbreviations:

• Removable bolts – с.ш.
• Hole skyhooks – д.х.
• Fifi anchors – ф.я.
• Friend chocks – з.ф.

Technical photograph of the route, showing the main relief features. Section numbers are indicated. Taken in 2012 from the south slope of Peak Dinosaur.

Technical photograph of the route.

Technical photograph of the route. Taken in 2012.

Route Description by Sections.

R0 200 m, II, 45–55°, snow.

R1 60 m. Removable bolts 3, hole skyhooks 12, fifi anchors 20, friend chocks 15. Through a slab into an internal corner. Slab 65°, 20 m, VI, A3, hole skyhooks, sometimes fifi hooks as relief skyhooks. Used three short removable bolts during ascent. On descent, a stationary bolt was placed in one of the bolt holes and a hammer attached to it for better orientation when finding the start of the route. In summer, climbing on micro-relief is possible (approximately up to 6C). Protection points are problematic. Through a weakly expressed internal corner under an overhang 60–80°, 16 m, V–VI. Under the overhang, traverse left 80°, 4 m, VI, A2, ITO on fifi hooks, chocks, and friends. Further up through an internal corner formed by a slab 75–80° and a slightly overhanging corner on the right 10 m, VI, A3. The right side becomes vertical, the corner becomes more convenient for ITO – approach under the overhang transition – 80–85°, 7 m, VI, A3. Transition through the overhang on anchors and fifi hooks – up to 95°, 3 m, VI, A4. Station semi-hanging on a stationary bolt – first control tour.

R2 55 m. Movement up and right under a large vertical rock "hat". Movement is complicated by a layer of loose snow that doesn't hold steps but covers all the relief. Hole skyhooks 15, fifi anchors 10, chocks 2. Slab 65°, 8 m, VI, A3 (in summer, balance climbing is possible, protection is problematic). Internal micro-corner – ITO on anchors, 60°, 12 m, VI, A3. Slab – ITO on hole skyhooks 70°, 8 m, VI, A3. Internal corner – ITO on anchors 65°, 10 m, VI, A3. Slab 65–70°, with a series of micro-cracks under small anchors for ITO – 17 m, VI, A3. Station on a vertical wall on a stationary bolt.

R3 60 m. From the station straight up. Friends 3, fifi anchors 25, hole skyhooks 18, removable bolt 1. Through a small overhanging rock 0.5 m through cracks and further up a small internal corner on fifi hooks – 85–90°, 8.5 m, VI, A3 (in summer, climbing is approximately 6B+). Small ledge. (Attempting to climb in summer, the difficulty is approximately 6C–7A). From the ledge up into the corner of the overhang ITO on hole skyhooks and anchors – 90°, 8 m, VI, A3. Transition through the overhang 1 m wide on fifi hooks – 90°, VI, A4. Up through a crack under fifi hooks and friends 90–85°, 13 m, VI, A3. Exit to the top of the rock "hat" under a smooth slab – in summer, a ledge. In winter, 2.5 m of snow. A stationary bolt is placed – in summer, it will likely be on lead. From the bolt up and gradually left 20 m towards an internal corner. In summer, approximately 6C+, 7A+ — no protection. Wall 75°, 6 m, VI, A3, hole skyhooks. Slab 55°, 4 m, VI, A3, hole skyhooks, 1 removable bolt. Wall 75°, 5 m, VI, A3, hole skyhooks. Exit into an internal corner filled with ice. 65°, 10 m, VI, A3, hole skyhooks, small anchors on the left side of the internal corner, fifi hooks.

R4 60 m. Station made on a stationary bolt above the end of the internal corner by 4 m – hammered into the rock wall emerging from the snow. Up and right under the left side of a huge rock triangle. (The right side is followed by Khvostenko's route). Snow-covered rock slabs – 55°, 60 m, V. In summer, likely climbing on "sponges". Station on a stationary bolt a meter from the start of the internal corner.

R5 60 m. Up through the internal corner under an overhang. Further through the overhang and a smooth wall to a ledge. Right through an internal corner formed by the rock triangle. Removable bolts 3, hole skyhooks 14, fifi anchors 26, friend chocks 6. 90°, 10 m, VI, A3 ITO on fifi hooks, anchors. 70°, 10 m, VI, A2 ITO on friends, fifi hooks. Transition through a small overhang 0.7 m, VI, A4. Immediately after, a removable bolt is placed. Further up a smooth wall on hole skyhooks 75°, 10 m, VI, A3. Before a depression in the wall, a removable bolt is placed. 70°, 10 m, VI, A3. Exit to a ledge (about 1 m wide). Up right through an internal corner 55°, 20 m, climbing V+, ITO on fifi hooks A2. Movement complicated by dense snow mixed with ice. Station in the corner on a bolt.

R6 60 m. 20 m up the corner and right. Not reaching 10 m to the top of the rock triangle (where it connects with Khvostenko's route), move left up onto a smooth rock wall. 25 m movement up towards a small rock "hat" – a ledge 0.5 m. From it up 15 m through a smooth wall under an overhanging internal corner. Removable bolts 3, hole skyhooks 29, fifi anchors 20, friend chocks 2. 45–60°, 20 m, V+, A2 on fifi hooks. On the left vertical wall where moving left-up, an arrow is carved to indicate the direction of further movement. Right of the arrow is the first hole for a skyhook. 85°, 25 m, VI, A3. ITO on hole skyhooks. At the end of this section, a bolt is placed on a ledge. 90°, 5 m, VI, A3. ITO on hole skyhooks. 85–80°, 10 m, VI, A3. ITO on hole skyhooks, a few steps on small anchors, and one step on a fifi hook. Base on a bolt under the overhanging internal corner is hanging. Underfoot – a micro-ledge for one foot. On the station, a second control tour.

R7 62 m. Equipment:

• Removable bolts – 2.
• Hole skyhooks – 4.
• Fifi anchors – 25.
• Friend chocks – 5.

90–75°, 10 m, VI, A3 ITO on friends left up through the overhanging internal corner. 70°, 6 m, VI, A2, ITO through an internal corner with grass on fifi hooks. 75°, 4 m, climbing on ledges, V, A1. From the last ledge before a large wall, a short removable bolt is placed. 85–80°, 20 m, VI, A4. ITO on the smallest anchors and sometimes fifi hooks through a series of fading deep cracks (3 cracks) from right to left. Between cracks – transition on hole skyhooks. Exit to a ledge 0.3 m. From the ledge, a removable bolt is placed. 85°, 4 m, VI, A2. Exit to a ledge 0.3 m. Movement up and slightly right into an unexpressed internal corner. 80°, 18 m, VI, A3. ITO on hole skyhooks, anchors, fifi hooks, and friends. Station on a bolt, with a small ledge underfoot.

R8 58 m. The most difficult section of the route. Movement up and left towards a yellow wall with black streaks overhanging. Equipment:

• Removable bolts – 3.
• Hole skyhooks – 30.
• Fifi anchors – 16.
• Friend chocks – 5.

80°, 9 m, VI, A2. ITO through an internal corner on friends, anchors, and fifi hooks. 95°, 11 m, VI, A4. ITO through an overhanging internal corner on anchors, friends, and hole skyhooks. Further right to left through a crack in the overhang. 110–115°, 2 m, VI, A4. ITO through a deep micro-crack on:

• Mini-anchors.
• Fifi hooks. Exit beyond the overhang. 90°, 2 m, VI, A3. ITO through a very poor micro-crack on fifi hooks. Exit to a small ledge 0.2 m. 90°, 8 m, VI, A3. ITO on hole skyhooks and some fifi hooks. Small ledge, intermediate station on a bolt. 80°, 8 m, VI, A3. ITO on hole skyhooks. Removable bolt. 90°, 16 m, VI, A3. ITO on hole skyhooks. Removable bolt. 95°, 2 m, VI, A4. ITO on hole skyhooks. Removable bolt. Due to a large amount of snow (about 1.5 m) on a large ledge after the key section, the station was made hanging on a bolt 1 m from the exit to the ledge.

R9 65 m. Exit to a large ledge. Through it right into a wide (2 m) overhanging internal corner-chimney. Further up the corner. In the middle of the corner on an anchor – third control tour. In the upper part, there is a danger of live rocks in summer. The corner appears passable in summer by free climbing with a difficulty of 7A–7B. Fifi anchors – 24, friend chocks 15. 30–80°, 25 m, IV–V. 120°, 5 m, VI, A3. ITO on fifi hooks and friends through an overhang. Entrance into the internal corner. 90°, 7 m, VI, A3. ITO on fifi hooks, anchors, and friends along the right part of the internal corner. 100°, 10 m, VI, A3. ITO on fifi hooks, anchors, and friends along the right part of the internal corner, as the left part is filled with ice. 90°, 8 m, VI, A4. ITO on fifi hooks, anchors, and friends along the right part of the internal corner, with many live but frozen blocks and stones. Base on a ledge, bolt.

R10 70 m. Anchors – 5, friend chocks 4. 60–90°, 35 m, V. Climbing up the wall. Movement into a chimney and through the chimney. At the end, a bolt on the wall. 90–45°, 35 m, IV. Simultaneous movement, exit to the summit.

Photo Illustrations.

Approach to station R1. Overhang on R3. Middle of R3. Attempt to create a bivouac site on stations R2–R3. View down from the station on R4. View of the lower part of R5. View of the lower part of R5. View of the upper part of R5. Arrow pointing up for finding holes for skyhooks from "triangle a".

Top of R8.

Top of R8. Overhang on R9. Chimney on R9. Here, control tour №3 is left. View down from the station on the chimney R9. Leaving a note at the summit of Peak Zvezdny. ![img-40.jpeg]({"width":1471,"height":