Passport

1. Rock climbing category

2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge

3. Zerkalny peak, via the western ridge shelf.

4. Proposed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.

5. Height difference – 280 m.

   Total length – 340 m. Average slope of the entire route – 45°. Crux slope – 70–75°. Length of sections with IV, V category of difficulty – 75–80 m.

6. Equipment used on the route:

   Fifi hooks – 2 pcs., anchor pitons – 7 pcs., stoppers – 8 pcs., cams – 30 pcs.

7. Climbing hours: 12, days: 1.

8. No overnight stays on the route.

9. Team leader: Patutinsky Alexander Nikolaevich, 1st sports category

   Participants: Dieterle Evgenia Vasilievna, 2nd sports category

10. Team coach: Suvorkina Lyudmila Davydovna, Candidate Master of Sports

11. Route approach: 7:00 AM, August 11, 2021

    Summit: 11:00 PM, August 11, 2021. Return: 1:00 AM, August 12, 2021

12. Ascent organized by — Krasnoyarsk City Alpine Federation as part of the Ergaki VAL

13. Technical photograph of the route

14. Route diagram

15. Route profile

16. Brief description of the route:

    • R0–R1. Wet tall grass, slippery, live rockfall encountered.
    • R1–R2. Reclining angle with an overhanging wall on the right, wet, easy to set up protection.
    • R2–R3. Grassy shelf turning into a slab with a crack.
    • R3–R4. Two consecutive chimneys separated by a grassy shelf, exit to the ridge. Medium-sized cams work well.
    • R4–R5. Ridge section of the route, free climbing, easy to set up protection.
    • R5–R6. Traverse right along a grassy shelf with pine trees.
    • R6–R7. Relieved wall overgrown with grass: cracks for cams up to #1 are present, just need to dig them out. Exit to the ridge via a grassy shelf.
    • R7–R8. Cracks separated by shelves. Crux section of the route – 30-meter slab. Little relief. Difficult to set up protection. Anchor pitons work well, but hard to secure – the crack is blind. Possibly A1 aid climbing.
    • R8–R9. Crack right, leading to grassy shelves on the Ptitsa shoulder. Possible to pass the outer angle via a 10-meter rappel, followed by climbing the same crack.
    • R9–R10. Exit to the summit via 1B route.

    In good weather, on dry rocks, it's possible to pass from R8 station "directly" via an inclined 6-meter slab "coil" with an exit to the pre-summit shelf. The slab has little relief, mostly friction. Protection on the slab is not feasible.

    Part of the R2 section R2–R3 section Hang. R5–R6 traverse Start of R7–R8 section: Exit from the crux section. View from R8: