Peak Konstitutsii Kazakhstana (4709 m)

Traverse from northwest to southeast, route 4A cat. difficulty (Fig. 1). The summit named Konstitutsii Kazakhstana is located in the main ridge of Zailiysky Alatau, in the immediate vicinity of the northward spur that separates the Dmitrieva and Konstitutsii glaciers and is also named Konstitutsii. The traverse route begins from the initial bivouac on the right-bank moraine of the Konstitutsii glacier. From the bivouac, cross the glacier (cautiously: crevasses!) towards the northwest ridge of Peak Konstitutsii. When ascending the ridge, follow the western edge as the slope is quite steep and avalanche-prone (45°). There are areas with flow ice. In the middle part of the edge, bypass a large bergschrund with step-cutting and thorough belaying. The steepness here is 60–65°. Further, the edge rises steeply. At the end of the season, it becomes entirely icy. Overcoming the edge requires 7–8 ice screws for belaying. The exit to the ridge is uncomplicated. On the first gendarme, there's a control cairn. The total length of the ridge is about three kilometers, with steepness in some areas reaching 50–60°. To the south, there are overhanging cornices. The ridge has many small drops and two dips. Descend into the first dip, after passing the second gendarme on the left side, via the slabs. The ascent from the dip is difficult and requires thorough belaying. Initially, it goes along a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 55°, then the slope becomes icy, with a steepness of up to 60°. The ascent length is 100–120 m. Further, the ridge becomes somewhat gentler, very narrow, with steep slopes on both sides. This section of the ridge should be traversed very cautiously, walking along the ridge crest for 150–170 m. Some sections are traversed in a "penguin-like" manner.

Fig. 1

1. Ascent from Kopr glacier via the southern ridge.
2. Ascent from the North-West. Ascent from the Kopr glacier via the southern ridge, route category 3B (fig. 45). The Kopr peak is located in the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau, between the Metallurg peak and the Talgar massif, to the North-East of the latter. The path to the peak from the Talgar mountaineering camp:

• Up the Middle Talgar gorge along the trail.
• From the signpost turn left towards the Kopr glacier.
• Then go along the grassy slopes, then along the ancient moraines: first along the terminal ones, then along the right (orographic) lateral ones.
• The trail is clearly visible.
• Overnight stay at Rakhimov bivouac.

Fig. 45

Ascent to the peak Kopr from the north-west, route 4б difficulty category (Fig. 45 а) From the Talgar alpine camp:

• up the trail going past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge;
• further along the trail to the Ozerny glacier;
• along the right lateral moraine;
• then along the glacier to the foot of the Kopr peak. Here, on the moraine, is the overnight stay. From the camp to the overnight stay is 3–3.5 hours walk. The route begins with an ascent up a snowy slope with a steepness of 30° and goes up to a large hollow. In the second half of summer, the glacier is cleared of snow, and crevices are open. From the overnight stay to the hollow is 4 hours walk. Movement is with alternate belay through ice screws. Sometimes the use of crampons is required. From the hollow to a rocky island having a characteristic triangular shape. The rocks are not difficult. In the upper part of the rocks is the 1st control cairn. The route further goes sharply to the right, crossing the ice slope, steepness up to 50°, length up to 80 m. Belay is with pitons. Step cutting is required. Exit to broken rocks. This section begins with a wall, which is bypassed on the right along rocks of medium difficulty. Move with alternate belay. At the top is the 2nd control cairn. Along broken rocks to the ice slope. Further - on crampons along the ice "sabre". Belay with pitons (5 pitons). Sticking to the rocks, move up to the right onto the ridge.

Fig. 45a

Ascent from the Tagiltsev Pass, route 1Б cat. diff. (Fig. 17). The Koptau peak is located in the New spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge between the Tagiltsev and TEU passes. The path to the Koptau peak from the Talgar alpine camp goes along the trail up the gorge to the Green Glade, then you need to:

• cross two streams flowing from the Shokalsky Glacier;
• approach the lake at the tongue of the North TEU Glacier. Here is the overnight stay. From the bivouac site to the Tagiltsev Pass. The exit to the pass is via a couloir with small and medium scree. There are snow patches. Steepness is 30–35°. At the bottom, the couloir is wide, with a rocky ridge in the middle. In the middle part, the couloir is divided into three narrow couloirs. It's better to go along the left one, which is wider and less prone to falling rocks. After 40–50 m, the pass point is reached. From the Tagiltsev Pass, follow the snowy ridge to the south to a large inclined gendarme. The ascent to the gendarme is in its middle part. Move with caution: the rocks are destroyed. Turn right and exit to an inclined platform. Descend from the gendarme to the left, initially along the second inner corner for about five meters. Then proceed to the second destroyed gendarme, which is bypassed on the left. The further route follows the snowy ridge. There are cornices on the left, and a slope turning into an ice wall on the right. The ridge has three height drops. After an hour of movement, the summit is reached. Descent is via the ascent route. The entire ascent from the initial bivouac takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The number of participants is not limited.

Route Description

Peak Kosmodemyanskaya is located in the western branch of the Maloalmatinsky spur, which is the watershed of the Malaya and Bolshaya Almatinka rivers. Ridges extend from it to the northeast, northwest, and south. On the northeastern side, a small eponymous glacier descends from the slopes. The approach to the route begins from the Tuyuksu glacier in the direction of the Lokomotiv pass on the southeastern side of Peak Kosmodemyanskaya. A wide couloir (in winter, filled with snow) at the beginning of the route R0 leads to a talus couloir, which exits onto the southeastern ridge. Then:

• A small wall leads to a несложный (uncomplicated) ridge of 1–2 cat. dif.
• Further — a talus couloir, turning into an inner corner;
• The end of the route — the exit to the summit of Peak Kosmodemyanskaya.

Route Description

Peak Kosmodemyanskaya is located in the western branch of the Malo-Almatinsky ridge, which is a watershed of the Malaya and Bolshaya Almatinka rivers. Ridges stretch from it to the northeast, northwest, and south. On the northeastern side, a small eponymous glacier descends from its slopes. The initial bivouac is organized on the platforms among the ancient moraine ramparts of the Molodezhny glacier. Then:

• Go to the left lateral moraine of the Tuyuk-Su glacier and along it — to the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier.
• Ascend to the upper snow plateau.
• Move along the ridge between the first and second gendarmes to the very summit. From the saddle:
• Ascend along the large talus to the right rib of the second gendarme.

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Description of the traverse of the Maloalmatinsky spur section

Through the line: O. Koshevoi — Iskra — Molodaya Gvardiya

The traverse begins with the ascent to the summit of O. Koshevoi. The ascent is made along the western ridge. You can climb in two ways:

• from the west through the couloir (to the right of the western wall as you go);
• along the western wall. The ascent through the couloir is not difficult, category 1B. The ascent along the western wall of the peak was first made by the mentioned groups of U. Usenov and V. Alekseev in 1954 and classified as category 3B. While making the traverse of O. Koshevoi — "Iskra" — Molodaya Gvardiya, the group of the Kazakh club started the ascent to the peak Koshevoi along the western wall. The first part of the wall is traversed through a couloir (to the left of the couloir leading to the forepeak). In winter conditions, the couloir is filled with snow. It is more convenient to move along simple rocks with insurance.