1. Ascent from Kopr glacier via the southern ridge.
2. Ascent from the North-West.

Ascent from the Kopr glacier via the southern ridge, route category 3B (fig. 45).

The Kopr peak is located in the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau, between the Metallurg peak and the Talgar massif, to the North-East of the latter.

The path to the peak from the Talgar mountaineering camp:

• Up the Middle Talgar gorge along the trail.
• From the signpost turn left towards the Kopr glacier.
• Then go along the grassy slopes, then along the ancient moraines: first along the terminal ones, then along the right (orographic) lateral ones.
• The trail is clearly visible.
• Overnight stay at Rakhimov bivouac.

It takes 4 hours to get here from the camp.

From Rakhimov bivouac, first along the scree, and then along the snowy slope - ascent to the saddle between the Sportivnaya peak and the shoulder of the Talgar massif.

From the saddle:

• to the right along the snowy ridge, leaving a small group of rocks to the left of a 15-meter high rocky spire;
• go below the ridge, as there are cornices on the left.

On a small group of rocks, not reaching the rocky spire - 1st control cairn (Kels cairn), tie in here.

It takes one and a half hours to get to the first cairn from Rakhimov bivouac.

Further along the snowfield of moderate steepness to a rather steep snow-ice slope 10-15 m long. It is necessary to cut steps. Insurance is alternate. As the height increases, the slope becomes steeper. Go to the left of the spire above the group of rocks standing in the middle of the ice slope, then continue ascending the steep ice slope in the direction of the snow-ice couloir between two ridges of rocks. The distance from the spire to the couloir is 150 m. Insurance is with pitons.

If the rocks are in good condition, it is possible to:

• bypass the couloir along the right rocky ridge (30 m).

After the couloir, ascend the steep snowy slope to the ridge. A slight turn to the right and exit to the saddle between the Kopr peak and the shoulder of the Talgar massif at Pryiut Pyati.

• The ridge on the left has cornices. Be careful! It is necessary to go about 15 meters below the ridge.
• To the right of the saddle are the rocks of Pryiut Pyati.
• There is a platform for a tent here.

The ascent time from Kels cairn is 4-5 hours.

From the saddle, descend to the left along the snowy ridge and then begin the ascent to the Kopr peak. Be careful here: hidden crevasses! Bypass the first group of rocks to the right, exiting into a small snowy couloir of the second group of rocks. Along this couloir, and then along the rocks - exit to the peak.

• From Pryiut Pyati to the peak - 1 hour walk
• Descent along the ascent route from the peak to Rakhimov bivouac takes 4-5 hours
• From the bivouac to the camp - another about two hours
• From Pryiut Pyati on the descent, piton insurance is mandatory