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Kazakh Republican Climbers' Club

Description of the ascent to the peak named after Sarym Kuderin

Alma-Ata, 1966 The Sarym Kuderin peak is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau in the area of the Gorodetsky Glacier northeast of the Legostaev peak. The peak is double-headed. The eastern dome is named Sarym Kuderin peak. The height of the peak is 4300 m above sea level. To the north-northwest, a hanging glacier descends. The north buttress is a rocky part. The steepness of the rocks is up to 55–65°. The rocks are destroyed. The snow line starts from the north at a height of 3500–3600 m. To the south, there are snowy slopes, to the east - a ridge to a nameless peak with cornices. The ascent in winter conditions was made at the beginning of December 1964 by a group of the "Burevestnik" sports society. Approaches:

• From the Alma-Ata lake along the trail.
• In the area of alpine meadows, the trail is snowed in.

Location, History of Ascent, and Approach Routes

Peak named after I. V. Kurchatov is located in one of the spurs of the Left Talgar river basin and closes the Rusakova river gorge, which flows into the Left Talgar river (see map). The peak is clearly visible from the Kuldzhinsky tract on the segment between Malaya Stanitsa and Almaty tobacco farm, and has an impressive appearance. Its approximate height is 4200 m. It is not surprising that, being unclimbed, it attracted the attention of mountaineers from the Institute of Nuclear Physics of the Academy of Sciences of the Kazakh SSR. From the scientific town of INF, its summit stands out with its strict outlines against the background of surrounding peaks (photo 1, 2). Therefore, in August 1966, a group of mountaineers from INF consisting of:

• Saprykin V. D. — Master of Sports
• Il'inykh A. M. — 3rd sports category
• Gubanova A. M. — 3rd sports category
• Mukhamedshina D. M. — 3rd sports category accompanied by an observation group, made the first ascent to the unnamed peak 4200 m. Paying tribute to the achievements of the outstanding Soviet physicist I. V. Kurchatov (1903–1960), the mountaineer-physicists, as the first ascenders, named the conquered peak after I. V. Kurchatov.

Peak Legostaeva (4392 m)

Ascent via the southern ridge — beyond category difficulty (Fig. 7)

The peak, named after one of the first Kazakhstani alpinists Legostaev, is located in the upper reaches of the left tributary of the Ozernaia River, in the cirque of the Cherny Glacier. A small spur extends south from the summit, on the western slope of which there is a hanging glacier of the same name. Fig. 7 It is convenient to organize the initial bivouac at Ozerny Pass. Descend into the Almaty River valley and, bypassing a series of rocky ridges, reach

Location, Approach Route, and Ascent History

The peak named after the youth newspaper "Leninskaya Smena" is located in the central ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. Its western ridge descends to the well-known Ozerny pass, through which a tourist path leads to the shores of Lake Issyk-Kul (see the map of the Leninskaya Smena peak area). From Almaty Lake, the approach to the peak is made along a well-trodden path up the gorge, along the Ozerny River, which flows into the lake. The time it takes to approach from the lake to the confluence of the South-Eastern River and Ozerny River is about 4 hours. Further, the path goes to Ozerny pass along both the right and left banks of the Ozerny River:

• The approach to the peak is more convenient along the right (orographic) bank.
• The descent is along the left (orographic) bank. From the confluence of the rivers to the tongue of the glacier, flowing west from the northern ridge of the Leninskaya Smena peak, it takes another 1.5–2 hours. The most acceptable and convenient path to the summit is the ridge that branches off from the northern ridge and merges with it not far from the summit (see the map). It was along this ridge that the first ascenders took the path in 1956 (a group of climbers from the Kazakh club led by Kucherenko G.). A group of climbers from the Institute of Nuclear Physics of the Kazakh SSR Academy of Sciences, led by Saprykin V.D., climbed the same route on September 2, 1956, and this description was compiled based on that ascent.

Route Description

The Lokomotiv peak is located in the northwestern branch of the Maloalmatinsky spur - the Kumbel ridge. To complete the ascent via this route, follow these steps:

• Reach the Tuyuk-Su glacier
• Move along the left lateral moraine and cross the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier flowing into it
• Follow the talus along the rocky ridge connecting the Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya peaks Ascend via a couloir covered with talus to the ridge north of the rocky tower, which can be bypassed from the west along a steep 200-meter ice slope. Steep sections require:
• Step cutting
• Mass belaying Continue along steep snow-ice sections of the ridge, with cornices in some areas (be cautious!), then along the ridge to the summit, which consists of huge rocky blocks with a steep drop to the northeast. The ascent to the summit is from the southwest; the cairn is located on a large flat boulder.

Route Description

From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier, exit onto the Tuyuk-Su glacier and, moving along the left lateral moraine, cross the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier that flows into it. Then follow the talus along the rocky ridge connecting the peaks of Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya. The ascent to the Lokomotiv peak is described above (category 2A difficulty via the North ridge). Bypassing a series of gendarmes on the right via moderately difficult and easy rocks, descend to the saddle between the peaks of Pogrebetskogo and Lokomotiv. Ascend to the peak of Pogrebetskogo via snowy, not very steep slopes, and occasionally talus. Then move along the eastern ridge to the Tuyuk-Su pass. From there, descend to the glacier to the foot of the ridge of the Tuyuk-Su peak, and, bypassing it on the left, head to the initial bivouac. The traverse takes 10–12 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — not limited.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00 AM.

Lokomotivets (4182 m)

Ascent from the Pereval Druzhby – Cat. II

The Lokomotivets peak is located southeast of the Pereval Druzhby in the ridge that divides the lateral valleys of the Almaty and Kokolbulak rivers in the Chon-Kemin river basin, south of the watershed ridge. The path from the initial bivouac to the Pereval Druzhby is described in the route to the Promezhutochnaya peak. From the pass, go in a southeast direction along the steep ridge, which is snowy in the initial part and then rocky. The ridge leads to the summit. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 7–8 hours. The first ascent to the summit was made in 1949 by a group of climbers from the Tuyuksu camp of the Lokomotiv sports society from the southern side under the leadership of S. Trukhanov. The first ascent via the described route was made in May 1954 by Almaty climbers consisting of:

• A. Andreev
• E. Denisenko
• V. Kaigorodova
• Ya. Markushin
• A. Musaev

Route Description

The peak named after Manshuk Mametova, a glorious daughter of the Kazakh people and a Hero of the Soviet Union, is located in the main ridge of the Maloalmatinsky spur. To the south of it lies the peak Antikainen, and to the north lies the pass of the same name (3750 m). From the Mynzhilki weather station:

• Cross the Malaya Almatinka river.
• Go around the ancient moraines of the Manshuk Mametova glacier and the western ridge of the Antikainen peak.
• Move along the foot of the ridge, gradually gaining altitude.
• Ascend via the right lateral moraine of the Mayakovsky glacier to the last couloir descending from the southern side of the western ridge of the Antikainen peak. Ascend the couloir to its fork and continue along the right branch (the rocks are crumbling, be careful!). Then, via the talus on the left side of the couloir, reach the junction of the lateral and main ridges. Cross the talus and reach the main ridge. The Antikainen peak rises insignificantly above the ridge and is an acute tower with a cairn (tur) on it. The route continues north along the snowy ridge, which leads to a large gendarme with sheer walls. The gendarme is easily bypassed from the western side via a huge depression. Behind it lies a snow-ice ridge 100–120 m long. Here, one should stay on the western side, as the ridge drops to the east with a wall and cornices, leading to the rocky massif of the Manshuk Mametova peak.

Manshuk Mametova Peak 2A cat. via 3rd slope from Mametova Glacier

Route description. From the Alpengrad site, take the trail to Manshuk-Mametova Glacier. Move along it towards the saddle between Manshuk-Mametova and Antikainen peaks under the ice wall. Organize rope teams after crossing the even part of the glacier. At the beginning of the ascent, the route goes along a snow-ice slope with a steepness of up to 35° (rope protection is set up). Then, traverse left towards the foot of the ice-snow forehead. To overcome the forehead, it is necessary to set up rope protection, sometimes piton belay. Further, navigating through crevices, reach the saddle. When moving in the upper part of the glacier, use piton belay. From the saddle, ascend via a couloir along small scree, then along snow or ice. When moving in the couloir, stick to the left side. In case of ice exposure in its upper part, set up rope protection. The couloir leads to moderate-difficulty rocks. From there, continue to a steep snow patch, the passage of which requires thorough belay and great caution (the massif of the peak drops off towards Manshuk-Mametova Glacier with a 300-meter wall). When ascending with large groups, from the exit from the couloir to the summit, it is necessary to set up rope protection (2 ropes). A cairn with a note is located in the northern part of the summit. Descend via the ascent route. The ascent takes 9-10 hours.

Recommendations:

• 1. Number of participants: 12-14 people.

2. Initial bivouac: Alpengrad.
3. Departure from bivouac at 5:00 AM.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• main rope 2 × 30 m
• rock pitons: 4-5 pcs.
• ice screws: 4-6 pcs.

North­ern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Manshuk Mametova via the North Face

25 category of difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — North­ern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye gorge.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Manshuk Mametova via the north face.
3. Proposed: 2B cat. diff.
4. Character of the route: combined
5. Height difference of the route: 350 m