Route Description
The Lokomotiv peak is located in the northwestern branch of the Maloalmatinsky spur - the Kumbel ridge.
To complete the ascent via this route, follow these steps:
- Reach the Tuyuk-Su glacier
- Move along the left lateral moraine and cross the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier flowing into it
- Follow the talus along the rocky ridge connecting the Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya peaks
Ascend via a couloir covered with talus to the ridge north of the rocky tower, which can be bypassed from the west along a steep 200-meter ice slope. Steep sections require:
- Step cutting
- Mass belaying
Continue along steep snow-ice sections of the ridge, with cornices in some areas (be cautious!), then along the ridge to the summit, which consists of huge rocky blocks with a steep drop to the northeast. The ascent to the summit is from the southwest; the cairn is located on a large flat boulder.
Descend via the ascent route or the southeast edge. In the second case, descend into a couloir about two rocky towers before reaching the summit, and exit onto the Tuyuk-Su glacier via talus. The route is hazardous due to rockfall (be cautious!).
Descent via the glacier is most convenient in its upper part, exiting to large rocks at the foot of the Tuyksu peak ridge. Then follow the right part of the glacier. Opposite the confluence of the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier, cross to the middle of the glacier and continue to the transition to the left lateral moraine.
The ascent takes around 9 hours. The first ascent to the summit was made in 1940 by a group from the Tuyuk-Su alpine camp led by V. Kuzmin.
Recommendations
- When descending via the ascent route, the number of participants is not limited, but via the southeast edge, it is 10-12 people.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier.
- Departure from the bivouac at 5:00 AM.
- Equipment for a group of 4:
- Main rope - 2 x 30 m
- Ice axes - 2 pcs
- Hammers - 2 pcs
From the Mountain.kz website
