Route Description
From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier, exit onto the Tuyuk-Su glacier and, moving along the left lateral moraine, cross the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier that flows into it. Then follow the talus along the rocky ridge connecting the peaks of Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya.
The ascent to the Lokomotiv peak is described above (category 2A difficulty via the North ridge). Bypassing a series of gendarmes on the right via moderately difficult and easy rocks, descend to the saddle between the peaks of Pogrebetskogo and Lokomotiv. Ascend to the peak of Pogrebetskogo via snowy, not very steep slopes, and occasionally talus.
Then move along the eastern ridge to the Tuyuk-Su pass. From there, descend to the glacier to the foot of the ridge of the Tuyuk-Su peak, and, bypassing it on the left, head to the initial bivouac.
The traverse takes 10–12 hours.
Recommendations
- Number of participants — not limited.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier.
- Departure from the bivouac at 5:00 AM.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope — 2 × 40 m
- crampons — 4 pcs.
- ice axes — 4 pcs.
- ice screws — 4
pcs.
(1)
category 2A difficulty
traverse
From the Mountain.kz website