Lokomotivets (4182 m)
Ascent from the Pereval Druzhby – Cat. II
The Lokomotivets peak is located southeast of the Pereval Druzhby in the ridge that divides the lateral valleys of the Almaty and Kokolbulak rivers in the Chon-Kemin river basin, south of the watershed ridge.
The path from the initial bivouac to the Pereval Druzhby is described in the route to the Promezhutochnaya peak. From the pass, go in a southeast direction along the steep ridge, which is snowy in the initial part and then rocky. The ridge leads to the summit.
Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 7–8 hours. The first ascent to the summit was made in 1949 by a group of climbers from the Tuyuksu camp of the Lokomotiv sports society from the southern side under the leadership of S. Trukhanov. The first ascent via the described route was made in May 1954 by Almaty climbers consisting of:
- A. Andreev
- E. Denisenko
- V. Kaigorodova
- Ya. Markushin
- A. Musaev
- A. Sirota
- Yu. Filippov
- B. Khalturin under the leadership of V. Shepilov.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants: 8–10 people.
- Initial bivouac near the right branch of the Aksai glacier.
- Departure from bivouac at 6:00.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people — main rope 2 × 30 m.