Mayakovsky — Tuyuksu Needles 4B cat. sl. Traverse of four peaks

Description of the route. Approaches to the beginning of the ascent are described in the first section of routes to Mayakovsky Peak. The path starts to the left of a pronounced chimney, climbing to the right wall on medium rocks (piton belay). Behind the first wall there is a shelf, to the right there is a 3 m wall, followed by a triangular area and an approach to a 15–20 m wall (pitons belay). After it, there is a shelf with a control cairn and the third 10 m wall (pitons belay). Then traverse to the right along the shelf 9–10 m under the wall, exit to the recommended overnight spot. Here is the second control cairn. The fourth wall is 40 m long, the rocks are difficult (pitons belay), ends with a narrow shelf, behind it — the fifth wall of slabby structure (few ledges). Go to the shelf, traverse it to the left to a chimney 30–35 m high (difficult climbing, piton belay). At the end of the chimney — the third

Ascent to the summit Metallurg via the North-West ridge, route 4Б cat. diff. (Fig. 49). The summit Metallurg is located in the main ridge of the Zailiyskiy Alatau, to the North-East of the Talgar massif. The approach path to the summit from the alpinist camp "Talgar" starts along the trail past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge and goes to the terminal moraine of the Ozerny glacier. Cross the terminal moraine and exit to the right (orographically) lateral moraine of the glacier, then:

• go along the lateral moraine,
• continue moving along the glacier. In 5-6 hours, the foot of the couloir is reached, leading to the saddle of the North-West ridge of the summit Metallurg. Here, on the moraine of the Ozerny glacier, it is possible to make the first overnight stay. There is water. The ascent to the saddle, taking an hour and a half, begins the route. On the saddle is the 1st control point. From the saddle, a small descent and going around the first gendarme along the firn slope with a steepness of up to 45°, after which the ascent begins along the first rocky wall. Height Fig. 49

walls up to 50 m. Piton insurance. After the wall, when exiting to the ridge, there is a place for the second overnight stay and the 2nd control tour. Further, bypassing a small gendarme on its right side. Then along a snowy-ice section to a rocky wall (3rd tour), which is overcome head-on, with traversing to the left. Then along a slope with a steepness of up to 60–65°, covered with flow ice, exit to a gentle snowy site and from it move to a rocky wall, which is traversed to the left. After the wall, approach a small steep couloir covered with flow ice. Movement along the couloir:

• starts on the right upwards,
• then deviates to the left side. After exiting the couloir - descent into a twenty-meter crevice, behind it exit to a steep ice section. After this section - ascent upwards along a steep icy scree. Behind the scree - approach to a rocky monolithic wall. Start climbing it with a traverse to the left. Exit to a narrow chute, along which climb 40 m. Piton insurance. In the upper part, when exiting, apply a "live" ladder. Caution: rocks are heavily destroyed.

Peak Mira (4140 m)

Ascent from Snezhnogo Pass — Cat. 1B

The rocky wall of Peak Mira closes the western cirque of the Levyy Aksay glacier. It is located in the southern part of the Kaskelensky spur, immediately after its first branching. To the east of the peak, there is an unnamed summit (approximately 4200 m). The northern side of the peak drops with a 600-meter wall to a small glacier of the same name, lying in the upper reaches of the western source of the Levyy Aksay; the southern side is rocky, dissected by steep couloirs descending to the Kaskelensky glacier. From the camp located in the upper reaches of the eastern branch of the Levyy Aksay glacier, exit in the direction of Snezhnogo Pass. The ascent goes along a snowy slope up to 450 m

Molodezhnaya 1B cat. sl. via Molodezhny pass, descent along the NE ridge

Description of the route. The fan-shaped Molodezhnaya peak is located in the northwestern branch of the Malo-Almatinsky spur (between the eponymous pass and the peak named after Kosmodemyanskaya). Its southwestern slope is covered with powerful scree, while the northeastern slope is covered with snow and ice. The massif of the peak and its northeastern ridge are the main source of nourishment for the 2.5 km long, 2 sq. km Molodezhny glacier. From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the glacier:

• Cross the ramparts
• Reach the glacier slightly above its tongue
• Move along the middle of the glacier to the foot of the slope of the Molodezhny pass (3735 m) The slope is snowy, with exposed ice areas at the end of the season, with a steepness of 30–35°. From here, begin the ascent to the ridge straight up, orienting towards a group of rocks; it is not recommended to go to the left — it can trigger an avalanche. The ridge leads to the so-called "chicken breast" — a steep section of snow or ice, which is overcome with piton belay (2 ice screws) along the fixed ropes or bypassed along the rocks. The length of the section is about 40 m, with a steepness of up to 50°. Beyond the "chicken breast" is the exit to the shoulder of the peak — a small snow plateau; from here, the ascent to the peak follows snow and a gentle, fine scree. The peak is a wide snow plateau with the remains of a destroyed ridge, on which a cairn is built. Descent along the northeastern ridge. The encountered gendarmes are easily bypassed. Insurance is sometimes necessary. Having reached the two-pronged gendarme, one can:
• release the main ropes

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area
2. Northern Tian-Shan, 7.2. 251 Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, Maloalmatinskoye gorge, Tuyuk-Su.
3. Molodezhnaya peak 4147 m, via the "knife" on the left part of the North wall
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2B. First ascent.
5. Route character — ice and snow.
6. Elevation gain — 500 m.
7. Route length — 1000 m.
8. Used on the route: ice screws — 48, rock pitons and protection elements — 0, bolt pitons — 0.

Youthful 2B cat. diff. via North slope

Description of the route. From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny Glacier, exit onto the glacier and move towards the rock outcrop on the northern slope of the peak. Move along the northern slope to the right (over ice) of the rock outcrop, in teams, wearing crampons. Depending on the condition of the slope, one can move simultaneously or with alternating belays. The first 150–200 m are overcome directly upwards, here the slope steepness is 25–30°, then it increases to 50°, so piton belays are used (2–3 pitons). Then a short traverse to the right, along small crevices. After 50–60 m, ascend a small flattened area, where many crevices up to 1 m wide are encountered. At the end of the section, near a driven ice piton, there is a control cairn. From here:

Traverse from Molodezhnogo Pass to the peaks of Molodezhnaya and Kosmodemyanskaya (2A) The description of the beginning of the route from the initial bivouac to the summit of Molodezhnaya is given above. The route continues from the small eastern elevation of the Molodezhnaya summit. Having descended from it about 100 m to the southwest, traverse the rocky ridge and climb up the couloir to the saddle between the Molodezhnaya summit and the Kosmodemyanskaya peak. At the beginning of summer, the saddle is snowy, at the end - ice is exposed. The first group of rocks should be bypassed on the right, the second - on the left. The next stage of the route is going around the rocks on the west side of the ridge of the summit, then along the couloir and further up the broken rocks to rise under the gendarme. Having organized piton belay, traverse it on the west side. The ascent from the saddle to the summit tower goes first along a 6-meter slab with a steepness of up to 55°, then traverses the wall for 15–20 m towards a steep chute. The most difficult section of the wall is at the very beginning, where you have to go around the outer corner by wedging your hand and foot into a shallow crevice. There are no cracks to ensure piton belay. The walls and chute are covered with snow for most of the season, and by the end of the season, flow ice forms on them. Having descended from the tower along the ascent path, exit to the south ridge and from it down a narrow steep chute up to 10 m long to the beginning of the couloir. Traverse the couloir and the slabs lying behind it in the southeast direction, then cross one of the rocky ridges separating the numerous couloirs on the eastern side of the summit.

Ascent via the North Edge from the Molodaya Gvardiya Glacier — cat. diff. 2B (4394 m) (fig. 10)

In the southern part of the Malo-Almatinsky spur, which is the watershed of the Bolshaya Almatinka and Levy Talgar rivers, rises the majestic ice-snow pyramid of the Molodaya Gvardiya peak. Fig. 10 The most convenient approach paths to the route are via the Ozerny valley to the Gryazny Glacier. The initial bivouac is organized on the moraine of the glacier. Moving along the right side of the glacier and overcoming a series of crevasses, one exits onto a relatively gentle section at the foot of the northern slope. Continue the ascent up the ice slope with a steepness of up to 40° to the first sentinel on the northern edge of the peak massif. Cats are required on this section. Having overcome the bergschrund and a small icefall, approach the heavily destroyed rocks. Then proceed along the edge; the rocks are of medium difficulty, and exit onto the main North Edge, which approaches the first sentinel. There are cornices on the eastern side of the ridge (be cautious!). The sentinel, up to 20 m high, is bypassed on the right via cut steps in an ice gully, with a steepness of up to 50° and a length of 20–25 m. After ascending onto a very sharp ridge, within 15 minutes one can approach the second sentinel, which is up to 50 m high. After a terrace, there is an exit onto a small steep scree leading to rocks of medium difficulty and onto a steep snowfield ending in a small cornice. To exit onto the ridge via the cornice, a diagonal cutting is necessary.

Muztau (4556 m)

Ascent from the Toguзак Glacier along the northern edge, route 2А category of complexity (fig. 6). The Muztau peak is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. To the east of it, separated by a vast firn plateau, rises the peak Sovetsky Kazakhstan, and to the south-west, also behind a large firn plateau, is the peak 10 let Kazakhskoy SSR. From the initial bivouac on the terminal moraine of the Toguзак Glacier - exit to its left branch. The tongue of the glacier and the glacier itself are not steep. Above the place where the right and left branches of the glacier merge, there are transverse crevices. Here, rope up and go to the foot of the northern edge of Muztau. Further ascent along this edge. From the bivouac - 1.5-2 hours of walking. The further path is visible from