Chkalova — Fizkultnik traverse, cat. 3A
Route description.
The starting point of the route is described in the ascent to Peak Chkalova via the Northeast ridge. The descent from the summit of Chkalova goes towards the summit of Fizkultnik along the destroyed ridge, which leads to the upper part of the Til glacier. Crossing its moraine, approach the heavily destroyed rocks. Overcoming the gendarme, proceed to the main, northern point of the Fizkultnik summit. Ascend via the outer corner (12–15 m), which leads to a ledge running along the western side of the summit tower (piton belay).
From the main northern summit, descend in a southerly direction to the Northeast summit and, overcoming it, head southwest through a firn basin towards the western summit.
The ascent to the western summit of Fizkultnik is along the ridge, and from it, at a distance of 200 m, is a technically straightforward path to the Southeast summit.
Descend from the Southeast summit to the col between Peak Komsomola and the summit of Fizkultnik. From here, descend to the right branch of the Bogdanovich glacier and further down the glacier to the initial bivouac site in the area of the Talgar pass.
The traverse takes 10–11 hours.
Recommendations:
- Number of participants — 6–8 people.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Bogdanovich glacier.
- Departure from the bivouac at 6:00 AM.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope — 2×40 m
- rock pitons — 7–8 pcs
- ice screws — 5–6 pcs
- hammers — 2 pcs
(1)
3А cat. difficulty
traverse
Author: Zhunusov B. Source: Book "Alpinistskie marshruty. Zailiyskiy Alatau". Part 1 From the Mountain.kz website.
