Ascent Log

Ascent Category— rock climbing
Ascent Area— Trans-Ili Alatau
Peak— Shkolnik, 3850 m North-West ridge, 2A category of difficulty (preliminary)
Route characteristics: elevation gain average steepness— 350 m — 40°–45°
Pitons hammered in— two — two chocks
Number of travel hours Number of overnight stays— eight — none
Full name of the leader— Pitersov V.V. — 1st sports category; Fedorov V.L. — 1st sports category
Team coach— Public Rescue Team under KSP
Date of departure on the route— October 21, 1989 Route is one-day
Organization— KSP of Trans-Ili district

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Brief description of the approach to the route

The Shkolnik peak with a height of 3850 m is located in a lateral spur of the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau. From the Tuyuk-Su alpine camp, past the mudflow protection houses, ascend a steep trail to the top of the old moraine overgrown with spruce trees. Then follow the trail along the stream flowing from under the moraine to the second ridge. The third moraine ridge can be ascended by two paths, bypassing it on the left or right. Having ascended to the moraine, the western wall of the Shkolnik peak will appear before you. Ascend a wide couloir leading to the northern ridge to a saddle. Here is a control cairn. This is the start of the route.img-3.jpeg img-4.jpeg

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