Climbing class — technical. Area of climb: Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too. Climbing route with peak height — traversing the center of the north face of Pik Dzigit (5170 m). Climb characteristics: height difference 1370 m (without seracs), average steepness 78°, length of complex section 1270 m. Piton usage: standing, chock stones 163, ice screws 35, bolted 3. Total hours of climbing — 35. Number of nights and characteristics — 2 nights on the wall in hammocks, in "Pamirka" tents. Team name: team of Omsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports. Surname, first name, patronymic of the team leader, participants and their qualification:
Kudashkin Yuri Valentinovich — Master of Sports, captain Ermolaev Yuri Alexandrovich — Candidate for Master of Sports, deputy captain Babanov Valery Pavlovich — Candidate for Master of Sports, participant Gaidamak Vladimir Anatolyevich — Candidate for Master of Sports, participant
Date of departure and return: July 27 — July 29, 1988.
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The route has the following main sections
The first 350–400 m pass through a rather steep, heavily crevassed serac zone, followed by a snow-ice slope with rock outcrops at about 65°, with a bergschrund in the middle part of the slope. Then a steep ice gully follows. The ice is wet and brittle. Next come rocks resembling "sheep's foreheads", covered in ice and filled with snow. Their steepness is around 80°. Then again a wall, covered in ice, 50–60 m. Then a section of about 90 m of a sheer wall with an indistinct internal angle. The wall is filled with snow and ice, with ice also in the cracks (one of the key places). Then — "sheep's foreheads", followed by steep slabs with loose rocks. They lead to an overhanging reddish wall, which "blocks" the exit to a steep ridge (one of the most difficult places).
Then follows a ridge with a steepness of about 65° with a series of consecutively located small walls — over a distance of about 250–300 m. The rocks are covered in ice.
After the ridge, there are 4 pre-summit towers. The first three are sheer with partial overhangs (key places), the 4th tower is somewhat easier.
Then follows a steep snow-ice slope with a small cornice on the ridge. The ascent from the ridge to the summit did not present great difficulty.
The descent from the summit was carried out along the classic route towards v. Festivalnaya and through On-Tor pass. The team descended to the Dzigit Glacier, where they met the observation group.
| Date | Section № | Steepness (°) | Length (m) | Section and terrain characteristics | Difficulty category of section | Method of overcoming, belay conditions | Weather | Work time | Pitons: rock | Pitons: ice | Pitons: bolted | Overnight conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| July 27, 1988 | R1 | 65° | 90 | ice-snow slope | 3 | crampons, belay through ice axe | good | 4:30–18:00 (13 h 30 min) | – | – | – | |
| R2 | 90° | 5 | bergschrund wall | 5 | crampons, belay through ice screws | good | – | 2 | – | – | ||
| R3 | 68° | 140 | ice slope with rock outcrops | 5 | – | good | – | – | 12 | – | ||
| R4 | 80° | 40 | ice gully (wet ice on rocks) | 6 | very difficult climbing | good | – | 5 | 2 | – | ||
| R5 | 80° | 110 | broken rocks, filled with snow, covered in wet ice | 6 | difficult climbing using pitons | good | – | 21 | – | 1 | ||
| R6 | 95° | 30 | wall with overhang | 6 | at first very difficult climbing, then pitons | good | – | 8 | – | – | ||
| July 28, 1988 | R7 | 75° | 30 | internal angle, filled with wet ice | 6 | difficult climbing, pitons | good | 8:00–10:00 (2 h 00 min) | – | 6 | – | 1 |
| R8 | 80° | 170 | rock wall with indistinct chimney and external angle, filled with wet ice | 6 | difficult climbing, partly pitons | good | 18:00 | 38 | 2 | 1 | sitting in a hammock tent | |
| R9 | 95° | 75 | Red wall with overhanging cornice | 6 | very difficult climbing, on cornice using pitons | good | 8:00–18:00 (10 h 00 min) | 17 | – | – | ||
| R10 | 70° | 255 | steep ridge with walls, filled with snow and covered in wet ice | 5 | difficult climbing | good | – | 16 | 10 | – | ||
| R11 | 90° | 55 | wall of 1st tower, partly wet ice | 6 | very difficult climbing, pitons | good | – | 11 | – | – | ||
| R12 | 65° | 20 | wall top of 1st tower, covered in wet ice | 5 | difficult climbing | good | – | 5 | 1 | – | ||
| R13 | 85° | 50 | wall of 2nd tower | 6 | very difficult climbing, partly pitons | good | – | 11 | – | – | ||
| July 29, 1988 | R14 | 95° | 55 | wall of 2nd tower, vertical internal angle with cornice | 6 | very difficult climbing, on cornice pitons | good | 8:00–19:30 (11 h 30 min) | 18 | – | 1 | |
| R15 | 85° | 100 | wall of 3rd tower, partly rocks covered in wet ice | 6 | very difficult climbing | good | – | 18 | 2 | – | ||
| R16 | 70° | 100 | wall in the form of blocks forming an external angle | 5 | difficult climbing | good | – | 13 | – | – | ||
| R17 | 80° | 50 | rock wall with ice and snow above the tower | 5 | difficult climbing | good | – | 8 | 2 | – | ||
| R18 | 60° | 70 | snow-ice ascent with rock outcrops | 4 | alternating movement | good | – | 4 | 2 | – | ||
| R19 | – | 350 | snow ridge with cornices | 4 | simultaneous movement | good | – | – | – | – | ||
| Total: | 35 h | 163 | 35 | 3 |