Tuyuksu via North Ridge from the Tuyuksu Iglau Glacier, 3B cat.

Route description.

Cross the Tuyuksu glacier in its initial part, move to the right lateral moraine, reach the Tuyuksu Iglau Glacier and follow it to the rocky ridge located on the north-north-eastern slope of the summit massif. The ascent begins here. The first rock is bypassed on the right via a snowy-icy couloir with an exit to the saddle. Further, the path goes along easy rocks to a 15-meter rock wall, with piton belay. A new section of easy rocks leads to a 20-meter rock wall. It can be overcome:

• via a narrow cornice on the left side
• on the right via inclined slabs (caution! "live" stones)

Tuyuksu 2B cat. via North-West ridge

Route description.

The route along the north-western ridge to the Tuyuksu peak is clearly visible from the Molodezhny glacier moraine. The approach to it is through the Tuyuksu glacier to the confluence with the Tuyuksu Igly glacier. Along the right lateral moraine of the Tuyuksu glacier, approach the north-western ridge of the peak. The exit to the route is along the middle part of the slope — less prone to falling rocks. The first 50 m are overcome with crampons. The steepness here is about 45°. Further ascent continues with a deviation to the right, bypassing the steep ice front with a large number of crevasses, along a 200-meter ice slope with a steepness of up to 50°.

Tuyuksu 1B cat. complexity with Tuyuksu col

Route description. Tuyuksu peak is located in the Malo-Almatinsky spur to the southwest of the eponymous 4100 m pass. A snow-ice ridge with intricate snow cornices connects it to the Igly Tuyuksu massif. To the northwest, a rocky ridge with sharp drops in height departs. Significant glaciation is observed on:

• northern slopes,
• western slopes. The southern slopes are heavily destroyed. The eastern slopes, descending towards the Left Talgar gorge, are covered with talus and areas of heavily destroyed rocks. The approach to Tuyuksu pass is described in the route to Pogorelsky peak. From the pass, the ascent begins along a wide northeastern ridge. On the eastern side, it is overhung by powerful cornices (be careful!). After 70 m, the ridge lowers slightly, becomes snowy, with sections of easy rocks, and after 200 m, the key point of the route is reached — a 5-meter ice wall. Here, depending on the state of the ridge, it is necessary to:
• Hang a rope for descent and ascent
• Use an ice axe or ice axe piton

Route Description.

The approach path is the same as to the summit of Pogrebetsky. Moving along the middle of the Tuyuksu glacier and rounding the northwest ridge of the eponymous peak, turn left towards the foot of a large couloir located at the junction of the northwest ridge of Tuyuksu peak and the main ridge, running from Tuyuksu pass to the summit. The couloir is quite long, its lateral branches are framed by rocks, and it is hazardous due to rockfall. It is recommended to pass through it early in the morning, sticking to the left side and using rock outcrops for cover. Upon reaching the ridge, turn left and ascend to the summit via easy, heavily broken rocks. Descent:

• It is safer via Tuyuksu pass. Time required for the ascent: 7–8 hours.

Recommendations:

1. Number of participants: 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of Molodezhny glacier.
3. Departure from bivouac at 4:00 AM.

Tur (4350 m)

Traverse from southwest to east — category 2B (Fig. 2)

From the initial bivouac located near the terminal moraine of the Levyy Kaskelen glacier, head north towards the summit, which is clearly visible. Initially, it's convenient to follow the stream flowing from the glacier. After ascending the first moraine step, reach a small moraine lake and from there, traverse the fine and medium-sized, densely packed talus, interspersed with snowfields, to the depression in the western ridge of Tur peak. Fig. 2. After ascending the second moraine step, move to its lateral ridges, keeping close to the ridge leading from Tur peak. Continue moving along the moraine and then onto the glacier. After 700–800 m, the foot of the Burkut-tas pass (3900 m) is reached. The ascent to the pass via a steep (up to 50°) snowfield, spanning 300–500 m, leads under a cornice. Carefully cutting through it, exit onto the pass saddle. The journey from the bivouac to the pass takes 3–4 hours. From the pass, ascend to the summit via the southwest ridge. Initially, the rocks are of moderate difficulty (belaying is mandatory), with a significant drop on the right side. After 60–70 m of progress, the path is blocked by an 80-meter gendarme, which is overcome head-on. Characteristics of the passage:

• The number of holds is limited
• Belaying is via pitons (caution!)

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area: Zailiyskiy Ala-Tau 3. Peak: Tруд 4650 m via the left part of the West wall, first ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1010 m. Average steepness 65°. Total route length — 1190 m. Length of sections with 4th difficulty category — 330 m, 5th difficulty category — 480 m. 6. Pitons hammered: insurance and others

• Rock pitons — 27
• Ice pitons — 2

• Climbing category: technical
• Climbing area: Trans-Ili Alatau ridge
• Peak, its height, and ascent route: peak "TRUD", 4650 m, via the right part of the Western wall, first ascent.
• Estimated route category: 5B
• Route characteristics: height difference — 1180 m, average steepness — 55°, total route length — 1560 m, section lengths:
  • 3rd difficulty category — 415 m
  • 4th difficulty category — 580 m
  • 5th difficulty category — 540 m
  • 6th difficulty category — 25 m
• Pitons used:

World Climbing Championship High-Altitude Technical Class National Team of the Republic of Kazakhstan

Peak Trud, 4635 m via the west face, 5B cat. diff. (first ascent)

General photo of the summit

Taken from Kroshka glacier on May 26 at 19:00

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge:

Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Middle Talgar

2. Summit name, route name:

Tokhsan-Attyn (4040 m)

Traverse from east to west — category 2A

The Tokhsan-Attyn peak is located in the upper reaches of a lateral gorge with a small river of the same name, which is a left tributary of the Kaskelen River. Moving along the left bank of the Kaskelen River, turn into the Tokhsan-Attyn gorge and go up*. After 40–50 minutes, the trapezoidal Tokhsan-Attyn peak becomes clearly visible. Its northern slopes are covered with snowfields, interspersed with outcrops of rocks. At the foot of the peak are accumulations of small ridges of ancient moraines. The ascent route should be started from a large stone in the center of the cirque. Crossing the moraine piles in the direction of the northeast ridge, continue moving along the right source of the Tokhsan-Attyn stream to the foot of the ridge. The ascent to the ridge begins along a small and medium talus. In its upper part, the rocks are heavily destroyed. The gendarmes encountered are bypassed on the left side. About an hour later, there is an approach to a snow-ice couloir (its length is 70–80 m), framed by heavily destroyed rocks (be careful!). It is better to move further along the snow. At the end of the season, there may be flow ice in the couloir. It ends with a small cornice, having hacked through which, you get to the summit ridge. From the ridge, an unforgettable panorama of the Kungey Alatau ridge opens, separated from the Trans-Ili Alatau by the wide valley of the Chonkemin River. The majestic Choktal peak, the highest point of the Kungey Alatau ridge, is clearly visible. The summit ridge is rocky, consisting of massive gendarmes and accumulations of rock fragments. The rocks are easy and moderately difficult. The first gendarme made of slabs is overcome head-on; the second, having the appearance of a huge cube, is passed along a clearly defined crevice.

Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau Range

TALGAR (Main Peak), 4973 m, via the west face of the North Peak from the North Talgar Glacier (Pelevin's route) 5B difficulty category. Team of the "Malachite" sports club. Team captain - Vladimir Ivanovich YUSHKEVICH, 1st sports category. Team members:

• German Petrovich AVERYANOV, Candidate Master of Sports
• Alexey Vladimirovich ARTAMONOV, 1st sports category
• Boris Vladimirovich DAUTER, Master of Sports
• Sergey Borisovich LYAKHOV, 1st sports category