Tokhsan-Attyn (4040 m)
Traverse from east to west — category 2A
The Tokhsan-Attyn peak is located in the upper reaches of a lateral gorge with a small river of the same name, which is a left tributary of the Kaskelen River.
Moving along the left bank of the Kaskelen River, turn into the Tokhsan-Attyn gorge and go up*. After 40–50 minutes, the trapezoidal Tokhsan-Attyn peak becomes clearly visible. Its northern slopes are covered with snowfields, interspersed with outcrops of rocks. At the foot of the peak are accumulations of small ridges of ancient moraines.
The ascent route should be started from a large stone in the center of the cirque. Crossing the moraine piles in the direction of the northeast ridge, continue moving along the right source of the Tokhsan-Attyn stream to the foot of the ridge. The ascent to the ridge begins along a small and medium talus. In its upper part, the rocks are heavily destroyed. The gendarmes encountered are bypassed on the left side.
About an hour later, there is an approach to a snow-ice couloir (its length is 70–80 m), framed by heavily destroyed rocks (be careful!). It is better to move further along the snow. At the end of the season, there may be flow ice in the couloir. It ends with a small cornice, having hacked through which, you get to the summit ridge.
From the ridge, an unforgettable panorama of the Kungey Alatau ridge opens, separated from the Trans-Ili Alatau by the wide valley of the Chonkemin River. The majestic Choktal peak, the highest point of the Kungey Alatau ridge, is clearly visible.
The summit ridge is rocky, consisting of massive gendarmes and accumulations of rock fragments. The rocks are easy and moderately difficult. The first gendarme made of slabs is overcome head-on; the second, having the appearance of a huge cube, is passed along a clearly defined crevice.
The ridge leads to the summit — a rock tilted towards a steep snowy slope. The exit to it goes along a small chimney. You need to move through the chimney very carefully, as at the very top of the rock there is an accumulation of freely lying stones. A cairn is built on the rock.
The descent from the summit to the west along the ridge towards the Tokhsan-Attyn pass (3680 m). Easy sections of the ridge here are interspersed with more complex ones. You should follow the very crest of the ridge.
The descent from the pass initially along the snowfield, then along the talus leads to the starting point near the large stone. The entire ascent takes 7–8 hours.
The first ascent to the Tokhsan-Attyn peak was made in August 1954 by a group from the "Kok Bastau" alpine camp consisting of: B. Belokon, L. Leytes, A. Malkov, E. Tsingaeva under the guidance of V. Stepanova.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants 6–8 people.
- Initial bivouac at the confluence of the Tokhsan-Attyn River and the Kaskelen River.
- Departure from the bivouac at 5:00.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people — main rope 2 × 30 m.