Tuyuksu 2B cat. via North-West ridge
Route description.
The route along the north-western ridge to the Tuyuksu peak is clearly visible from the Molodezhny glacier moraine. The approach to it is through the Tuyuksu glacier to the confluence with the Tuyuksu Igly glacier. Along the right lateral moraine of the Tuyuksu glacier, approach the north-western ridge of the peak. The exit to the route is along the middle part of the slope — less prone to falling rocks. The first 50 m are overcome with crampons. The steepness here is about 45°.
Further ascent continues with a deviation to the right, bypassing the steep ice front with a large number of crevasses, along a 200-meter ice slope with a steepness of up to 50°. The ice is hanging, its passage requires caution. Movement is straight on. Insurance is with ice screws.
The ice section leads to a snow-covered ridge stretching from the peak to the south-east. In the place of its lowering, among a group of rocks, an intermediate control cairn is located. Here you can remove crampons.
From the cairn, along the snowy slope, exit to the rocky ridge. Movement with alternating insurance. After two hundred meters — a lowering with a small site. The exit from it is along difficult rocks for 10–12 meters.
Further, the ridge becomes sharper and leads to a large gendarme, which is overcome:
- to the left along the ice at its foot (requires cutting steps)
- by traversing along the rocks on the same side.
Behind the gendarme:
- a snowy plateau
- a steep ascent to the pre-summit
- from it along rocks of medium difficulty — exit to the summit
Descent is along the ascent route or via Tuyuksu pass.
The ascent takes 8–9 hours. The route was first laid in September 1951 by a group of instructors from the Kok Bastau alpine camp, consisting of:
- V. Krypaev,
- O. Shkuratov under the leadership of A. Romakhov.
Recommendations:
- Number of participants — 6–8 people.
- Initial bivouac on the Molodezhny glacier moraine.
- Departure from bivouac at 5:00.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope — 2×40 m
- ice screws — 4 pcs
- rock screws — 2 pcs
- hammers — 2 pcs
(1)
25 k.t. along C-3 ridge
Author: Zhunusov B. Source: Book "Alpinist routes. Trans-Ili Alatau". Part 1
From Mountain.kz website
